Yes Gary. After inserting part #5 I rotated it and watched the pin move in and out of the cam. After installing it I made sure the two little **** were engaged in the weights and the compressor pin was exteneded out of the cam like the instructions said. The only thing I'm not sure of was the dot on the part #5 (decompression lever) was at the 12 oclock position lined up with the dot at the 12 oclock position on the gear. I'm guessing if it were off 180 degrees the pin (part #2) would not have been outside the cam?? I just hope when I install the new pin and spring the same thing doies not happen again. Thanks for the help guys. Keep em coming if you think of something else.

 

I have the Hotcams cam, and I could not use the decompression mechanism either. I took the whole thing out, the spring, plunger, and the little bolt-thingy that slides in the end through the cam gear. I have not had any problems.

 

Adam,

You left the weights in place on the sprocket? TIA

 

the loud noise you heard was probably the valve hitting the piston which bent it slightly not allowing it to seal 100%, thus no idle.

 

Ouch. Your a bundle of good news. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

I hope that is not the case. The compressor pin does not stick out far enough to push the valve in far enough to hit the piston. But, with the pin sticking out to far and being damaged by the rocker foot and staying out I guess this could be a possibility. Gee thanks. jk. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

I'll know more when I get it put back together later in the week with the new compressor pin and spring. If it still has this idle problem I'll look into this possibility. I feel comfortable enough now to remove the head myself. Should this prove to be true, a Trinity port job and vlaves will be in order and a piston will be bought from 14mins to go along with this cam. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Merry X-mas to me.

Thanks for the idea.

 

My Stage I Hotcam required the reuse of the decompression release. The directions made no mention of changing the spring but its probably a good idea!?
I found the best way to avoid having to remove the cam chain from the sprocket was to leave it on their when you remove the old cam & leave it in the TDC position the whole time, checking it periodically. Then the new cam drops right in & no need to fool with the alignment. I just had to worry about keeping the cam chain slack on the tensioner side. Mine has worked fine during break-in & I will let you know if I have any trouble after some monster hill climbs this weekend.

 

Chimmer, please elaborate on this statement.

Update.

I haven't recieved my parts yet so its not back together.

I did have a good conversation with 14mins engine builder. With cam in front of him and a useable head we went through every scenario to try and reinact what happened to my quad. The only possible way he could see for the pin to stick out far enough to cause any damage was if the spring was not in. I used the spring and it was installed properly. Even without the spring in, the pin does not stick out as far as the lobe does to engage the valve enough to hit the piston. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] This made me feel good.

We also determined that the dot on the decompression lever was in line with the dot on the top of the gear at 12:00. If it were not, the decompressor pin would not have been sticking out of the cam upon install, and it was. So I can rule out error on my part. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Until my parts arrive I can not match up the old spring with the new or test for slack in the hotcam hole versus the stock cam hole. I don't have a micrometer.

So thats where it stands now. I hope chaparral gets my parts tomorrow as I 'd like to have things running Saturday. Already going to miss Dumont this weekend. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Don't want to miss Glamis next weekend.

 

wshrdskin, from the Hotcam website@ http://www.hotcamsinc.com

"Place the camshaft on a clean surface. Turn the de-compressor mechanism in the end of the camshaft 180 degrees. Note that the de-compressor plunger is extended. Put your finger over the hole opposite of the plunger. Slowly pull the de-compressor shaft out of the end of the camshaft. When the shaft is about a quarter of the way out of its cavity you will feel the plunger hit your finger. Remove the plunger and spring noting their assembly positioning. Note the notch in the de-compressor shaft.

Set the new Hot Cams camshaft in a position that you can see the de-compressor hole, install the spring, install the plunger, insert the de-compressor shaft with the notch of the shaft facing the plunger outlet hole, with a small pick or other finely tipped tool, push the plunger into the spring and slide the de-compressor shaft into the cavity until it releases the pressure on the tool you are using to compress the spring and plunger, remove the tool and slide the shaft the rest of the way in. Rotate the shaft several times to verify function of the plunger. Rotate the shaft until the plunger is retracted.

Using assembly lube, lube the bearing surfaces for the camshaft in the cylinder head. Set the camshaft into the cylinder head casting. Set the camshaft drive sprocket onto the end of the camshaft while at the same time fitting the flyweights of the de-compressor over the pins on the de-compressor shaft (this is made easier by putting the flyweights in the “out” position). Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a CCW direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Install one of the sprocket bolts, with the flyweight guide in place, finger tight.

Check the positioning of the cam lobes and the three dots on the sprocket. Check the positioning of the TDC mark on the flywheel. If the lobes and dots are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the camshaft sprocket in the chain (you will have to remove the sprocket in order to do this). Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshaft. Install the other sprocket bolt and flyweight guide, finger tighten the bolt. Install the cam chain tensioner block with the new gasket in place; torque the bolts to 7.2 lb/ft. Extend the tensioner shaft using a punch, do not push hard, light pressure is all that is needed for the time, you will hear the shaft lock click as it extends out. Tighten the cam sprocket bolts to 9 ft/lbs. Check to see that the de-compressor plunger is in the extended position and protruding outside of the camshaft above the level of the exhaust lobe it is next to.

Using assembly lube, liberally apply to the lobes and bearing surfaces of the camshaft. Install the cam cover and torque the cam cap bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs. Install the oil feed line to the cylinder head. Install the cam chain tensioner spring and cap; torque the cap to 12 lb/ft. Set the valve clearances to .008” (.20 mm) on the intakes and .010” (.25 mm) on the exhausts.

Slowly rotate the crankshaft feeling for valve - piston contact or valve - valve contact. The motor should roll over easily with no binding or catching. It will take some pressure though as you will have to overcome the valve spring pressures. If everything up to this point was done correctly, the engine WILL turn over correctly with no valve/piston, valve/valve contact. " etc etc...

Hope this helps!?

 

LOL

Yeah, I got all that. did all that, printed it out to use as reference when I installed.

I thought maybe you tried to use it without the decompression mechanism and it wouldn't run right or something. Thanks anyway.

 

It would be easy to test for a bent valve with cam out. Just blow air through the spark plug hole and chech for leak down through exhaust are carbs. With cam out all valves should be closed and sealed! It will also let you know if you have something wrong with piston or rings.