RAPTOR - Best Woods setup - need opinions
#1
dont care about motor and exhaust
More concerned about rims, tires, skids.......things that help the Raptor bounce off of tight rocky trails at high speeds.
Please give your opinions and facts.
More concerned about rims, tires, skids.......things that help the Raptor bounce off of tight rocky trails at high speeds.
Please give your opinions and facts.
#3
PRM rear skid is by far the best, toughest made. jmo 12 tooth so you can chug in 2nd through the tight stuff.big daddy website
#4
Full underbelly protection, steering stabilizer, hand guards, 22" tall tires (heavy, but worth it in the clearance dept.). I had front Bandit XC's and would not recommend them...too much contact patch....the front end wanders at very high speeds....the rears are awesome. The stock rolled edge wheels will be fine untill you really wad things up....then get some bead locks. Adjust gearing too suit needs / preferences after some seat time. Also, get the best shocks you can afford and get a +3 Lonestar rear axle. Lastly, a dyno-jet kit.....this helps smooth out power for quicker woods riding.
#5
Get holeshot xc 22 inch fronts and 20 inch holeshot xcr's in the rear. I would stay with your stock rims. However if you want a little more stability get some ITP .190 wheels with the fronts being offset 3b + 2n. It will widen your front about two inches.
#6
As some have said above, Bandit XC's for the rear of the bike are great. They allow for good control, great sliding ability, etc. They are pretty heavy, but dang tough! I run full GYT-R skids (belly, a-arm, swingarm) and geared with 12/42 combo. I hit rocks with the underside all the time, these Yamaha skid plates are probably the toughest I have owned.
#7
thanks so far
What is a good price for beadlocks????
What is a good price for beadlocks????
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#8
Are a-arm guards worth the money?
I dont plan to widen the rap at all,,,,in fact I will be stickin with stock a-arms until i brake them.
I have a DG skid plate currently (crap). It is flat across the bottom (in design). Is the PRM flat or does it contour to the sprocket, rotor to allow more clearance between the two?
I dont plan to widen the rap at all,,,,in fact I will be stickin with stock a-arms until i brake them.
I have a DG skid plate currently (crap). It is flat across the bottom (in design). Is the PRM flat or does it contour to the sprocket, rotor to allow more clearance between the two?
#9
Douglas .190 witrh race rings
22-11-10 holeshots xct
23-7-10 holeshot xc up front
PRM full body skid and swing arm skid
denton steering stabilzer
12 tooth front sprocket 42-43 rear to Lug
Elkas suspension with ssd
houser a-arms 2" plus one forward
2 inch lonestar swing arm
pro-taper style handlebars
lonestar plus 2 steering stem
Direct link shifter
K&n filter with billet adapter
acerbis rally pro handgaurds
stainless steel brake lines plus 2"
And why would you put xcr since they are a 1/2 inch shorter than the same size xc tire, He said woods riding,xcr are designed for low HP machines!!
Lonestar plus 4 axcaliber axle
Well all this is available at the QUAD SHOP if you are really wanting it.
22-11-10 holeshots xct
23-7-10 holeshot xc up front
PRM full body skid and swing arm skid
denton steering stabilzer
12 tooth front sprocket 42-43 rear to Lug
Elkas suspension with ssd
houser a-arms 2" plus one forward
2 inch lonestar swing arm
pro-taper style handlebars
lonestar plus 2 steering stem
Direct link shifter
K&n filter with billet adapter
acerbis rally pro handgaurds
stainless steel brake lines plus 2"
And why would you put xcr since they are a 1/2 inch shorter than the same size xc tire, He said woods riding,xcr are designed for low HP machines!!
Lonestar plus 4 axcaliber axle
Well all this is available at the QUAD SHOP if you are really wanting it.
#10
I like the a-arm guards because they wrap up the front and act like a shield. They also keep sticks, and stuff from poking between the opening in the a-arms, and rocks from bending them.


