3 questions.......
When rejetting a Raptor do you have to remove the exhaust header?????? or can you get to the jets somehow from the other side ????????
Also can you run without an airbox lid with a k&N or does the lid help hold it in place?????/
To remove the airbox do you have to remove the battery box and rear fenders???

 

The easiest way to change the jets is by taking things apart. Just about everything except the rear fenders.. Seat, fuel tank, front grill cover and fenders, lights can be worked around but saves time to take them off. Take out air box, remove boots at the carbs. Loosen screws on carbs and turn them upside down. Now you can get to main jets and pilot jets. Just remember which side has the smaller jet. You do not need to undo the throttle cables or choke. I have run the K&N with outerwear without the lid but it does not seal well against the front of the air box at the top. The bottom fits snug. I put a thick layer of grease around the filter to seal it. Some drill a couple of holes and use small bolts to hold it tight against the air box. I am at 700' elevation and run 155 and 160 mains. 25 pilots. Idle screws 3 turns out. I had it dynoed with the a new plug, and lid off and it leaned out something terrible at 4500+rpm. It just fell on its face. Pulled the plug out and it was blistered white. Runs a little rich with it on, but would rather have it rich than lean. When I run at the dunes where it is 3000', it runs good without the lid. I'm sure someone will take exception and have other suggestions [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

When running without a air box lid I would suggest a proflow kit. It has an adapter to clamp the filter to the box.Works great also get a crankcase filter

 

If you use the screws and no lid I would use a different seal on the filter than the one it comes with. raptor03 was running his the way you mention and he was getting dirt and sand past the thin seal they have on there. The plastic distorts to much to seal good.
To rejet do as duramax said you do'nt need to pull the rear plastic to get the airbox out, but you may want to do what me and I'm sure many others have done and that is to shorten the **** on the front of the airbox to clear the grommets. With everything disconnected and unbolted from the airbox slide it back as far as you can and take a hacksaw blade and cut the **** flush with the grommets so you can pull the airbox up and out. For an idea on a breather filter check out my pics in the gallery.

 

"If you use the screws and no lid I would use a different seal on the filter than the one it comes with"

Sorry I have no idea what you are talking about in this quote??? the K&N filter system is what I am leaning toward or are you talking about the stock filter or what screws????????????

 

010101,

1) The jets are on the bottom of the carbs. You do not have to remove any part of the exhaust system to get to the carbs. They are on opposite sides of the engine.

2) What K&N filter are you talking about? Just a stock replacement K&N needs to be run with the lid or bolted on at the top. If you are talking about the Pro-Flow system with the K&N filter, then it comes with a billet mountng plate that bolts on to the airbox, then you clamp on the filter with hose clamps.

p.s. Why were you second guessing me so much about my jetting specs if you don't even know how to change your jets? Also, I think the Pingry airbox and bigger jets had more to do with the dramatic incease in power than did the Dyna FS ignition.

 

The stock mount type K&N is held in place by the lid and has a thin gasket on it to seal it to the airbox. Some have used this filter without the lid and hold the filter in place with a couple of screws. If you have'nt bought a filter yet get either the pro flow or gytr adapter and filter.

 

p.s. Why were you second guessing me so much about my jetting specs if you don't even know how to change your jets?

RR1 Thanks guy, the only reason i second guessed your jets was because they seemed abit higher than what other suggested, I have no problem changing jets have done it many times on dirt bikes, snowmobiles and other atvs but the raptor carbs look so crammed in there I was not sure if I could manuver the carbs much in that small space. Thanks to guys like you I am now looking forward to doing it now rather than dreading it. Next problem seems to be the GYT-R jet kits are not available so i am going to have to go with dyna jet kit.

So to get this straight, to run without the lid I have to go with the Pro flow set up or GYT-R?

 

Correct that would be the best way.

You should have no trouble getting a GYT-R jet kit. If your local dealer can't get it (and there should be no reason they can't ) buy it from one of the on-line OEM dealers like Alba, Troy or Parker Yamaha.