ct 240 kit (will not idle)
#1
I bought a ct240 kit and put it in ok. It was running to rich so I leaned it out on the neddle clip. But I can't seen to get it to idle. I wrote ct and they said the tors system was still hooked up. That wasn't the problem, so they said to cut the idle spring so it would go in further. well I did this and it will only idle with the idle spring all the way in and I mean all the way too!!! I still think there is a jetting problem with this kit does anyone have any good advice. Also the idle screw is plastic and very cheap. I asked ct if they make a brass idle screw and they said no! Maybye if I take the plastic idle screw to cycle shop they might be able to match it with a brass one from another bike!! Any ideal's!!!
#6
This kit seems to have plenty of power on tap, but it seems like the carb. jetting and or settings are what is giving me the little problems that are bugging me. It still rides but is not where I want it to be. I might have to get some different size jets and try that out and see what the problem is. When I first got it the carb. was running so rich it wouldn't run very well at all. So I moved the neddle clip up to lean out the carb., it was shotting oil out the pipe very badly. I had to move it to the very top clip position, do you think I should go down on the main jet to help lean it out. I thought that maybe the slow jet was the problem with the way it wopuld not idle, dont know all the ins and outs of carbs. Still learning!
#7
You do not move the needle clip to lean out that only controls 1/4-1/2 throttle use smaller jet
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#8
When I removed the tors units on my banshee...I had the same problem...No Idle, unless the screws where turned in all the way.....
When You removed your tors, I am assuming that the instructions said to file and drill/tap the side of the carb for the idle screw?
If this is what you did....I would look into the carb intake and see how much of the tapered idle screw is touching the slide.....If it is not touching far enough to have adjustment....then you need to file a bit more off the side of the carb....
My friend with a blaster had to shorten the spring and file more off the carb in order to get the proper idle....
I would check for air leaks...But I don't think that is the problem....
good luck
When You removed your tors, I am assuming that the instructions said to file and drill/tap the side of the carb for the idle screw?
If this is what you did....I would look into the carb intake and see how much of the tapered idle screw is touching the slide.....If it is not touching far enough to have adjustment....then you need to file a bit more off the side of the carb....
My friend with a blaster had to shorten the spring and file more off the carb in order to get the proper idle....
I would check for air leaks...But I don't think that is the problem....
good luck
#9
The kit that I got came with a new carb., a pwk35 mm Keihn. It had been pre-jetted for CT from them for their kit, but the work they do to your cyl. and head depends what you riding preference is. Mine was sport recreational riding. The keihn carb. main jet was a # 168, does this seen like a fairly big size jet. I went to cycle shop and the only size down close in their stock was a #160. Maybe I should try to get it from keihn themselfs. I going to try to look for air leaks, thanks for the info on that. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Ct told me to disconnect the tors system under the front hood. White connector with three wires coming from it. That did not make a difference.
#10
The 168 is what mine came with. Did you try adjusting the idle on the carb? You can turn the choke *** to speed up or slow down the idle. I actually run a 172 main in mine to make it run richer. Be careful running a leaner jet. Especially since you live in a hot area. You should be running pre-mix. I run mine with golden spectro 32:1 Also check free play in the cable and if you have too you can adjust the idle with the cable. Hope you get it fixed. When you do your blaster will scream.


