Everything seems to happen at once over here...Yesterday I had a problem where the quad would not start...I traced the problem to a relay back near the battery, the replacement relay was $29.00 (Ouch!) and it runs good. Well I had the skin off the quad so I could get to the relay and I noticed the boot coming off the back of the engine which I guess houses the driveshaft had lost it's seal. So I take off the clamp and peer inside and I see no grease, and rust on my joints inside! I about screamed! Anyone had this problem? I figured I could just regrease the joints and seal it back up, but that wouldn't be good with all that rust on it right? I'm thinking this is a dealer fix no doubt...what else can go wrong?

 

Never had or heard of that problem, but I will be sure to keep an eye on mine. Let us know how much it costs to fix when you get it to dealer. Thanks for the info. If that were to happen to me, I would consider pulling the boot back, cleaning it a much as possible, re greasing and running it until it broke. I think it will be big bucks to fix. On the other hand, I wouldnt want to get stranded in the woods, although the front drive may be enough to get you out of the woods slowly if you get in a pinch.

 

well, while rust isnt desireable anywhere, its normal for the output shaft to have som rust on it..
Ive jsut pulled an engine out of a 98 Yamaha BigBear.. its got rust on it too... What counts is whether the u-joint has any GREASE INSIDE of it.. its like rust on the driveshaft of your truck... you dont really worry about that, but you would DEFINETLEY worry about rust INSIDE the U-Joint.. You could always seperate it, and check it out... But honestly, if you are going to pull it, you may as well REPLACE IT!!.
See if you can find a replacement with a grease zerk... (I KNOW IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING FOR A POLARIS.. hahahah) But KNOWING grease is in there is better than HOPING grease is in there.

 

I have a 95 so far i've replaced the solenoid twice, the relay once, new bearings and seals once, machined a groove out of the axle due to seal wear, replaced the rear boot on the motor, replaced the swing arm bearings, Front bearing once a year, not bad for a 95. Now im just having problems with it starting , push the button nothing, checked all connections, checked for bad wire somewhere, I hate electrical problems

 

I have a 95 so far i've replaced the solenoid twice, the relay once, new bearings and seals once, machined a groove out of the axle due to seal wear, replaced the rear boot on the motor, replaced the swing arm bearings, Front bearing once a year, not bad for a 95. Now im just having problems with it starting , push the button nothing, checked all connections, checked for bad wire somewhere, I hate electrical problems

 

Wolfy, are you the one who stated that they bump start the machine when the starter dies? If that was you, how did you bump start? Didn't think you could do it with the Wolverine.

 

yep Put in fifth pull up on shifter this works like a clutch . push or pull the quad , while pushing release the shifter . the motor will start turning over and should start as long as everything is on . you may need to use a bit of choke .

 

you also have to tap the brake
s to allow it to start in gear right?

 

Hey fellas...

I am not a wolverine owner, but when my battery dies on my 300, what I do is push it to a base of the hill and put it on the first gear (kick starting becomes pain in the a$s due to the hilly terrain). I hold down the first gear, but NOT in neutral. When the bike has enough momentum, pop the clutch and now you have a live beast. (that happens when you have the IGNITION switch ON and ALL power is OFF - i.e. accessories off, lights off, etc). GOod luck and hope this helps. Later-

-Mudmann

 

There should'nt be any problem with the joint unless it shows sighs on wear. They are sealed the same as u-joints on rear wheel drive vehicles that are expossed to the elliments. The BIG problem here is the dirt and moisture that will collect where the shaft enters the rear gearcase. It will damage the seal, enter and destroy the gearcase. First, check the rear oil for signs of contamination. Remove the swing arm to replace the boot, clean out the cavity and replace the seal if nessasary. Address any other rear end damage that may have been caused.