Hey , just for the hell of it, leave plugs in motor. take both plug wires off. put a new plug in each wire, and check for spark on plugs in spark plug wires, with unhooked plugs in motor. What I'm getting at is that your crank bearings might be getting worn out of spec. What I am saying is when you check for spark with plugs out of motor there is no push down resistance on crank to bearing, therefor not changing stator fly wheel spec. but if you put plugs in motor it causes compression, putting resistance on crank bearings. If they are a bit worn in tolerance this will cause the crank shaft to be slightly lower than its intended position, therefor changing relationship to the fly wheel to stator. Do you follow what I'm talking about?? all you have to know is weather you have spark when plugs are in motor while using another set of plugs to check for spark. this might not be the problem but its a hunch. let me know how it works if you don't follow me on this let me know.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]I will check the carb Bowls, the crank deal I am not sure about, but I do have a ajustable timing plate and am running a +4 degree on it, I have a 200 watt stater in it also because I have a battery setup in it, so I can ride at nite in the Desert,the stock lighting sucked!!!! If I slowed down for a curve or a dip in the road the lites would dim way down and I couldnt see sh--t!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]When you say the left carb, is that faceing the quad????? or setting on it???????? I get that mixed up.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]Ater thinking bout it,I have had the carbs apart to change the jets,and i remember that BOTH the bowls have a brass tube in them???????????? I also have a extra set of carbs and just checked them and they also have the brass tubes in both of them also!!!!!!!!!!! Now I be LOST!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know when I start it cold, I have to leave the choke Full out untill it picks up some RPM,s or it will die the second I open the thottle, after I get it started and running+warmed up, it runs like a raped ape, Any idels,on what,s go-n on here????? Thanks Already,And I did remove the Tors and sinked the carbs.Like I said after it gets warm, 1 kick and it,s ready to run.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]Hey speedyman,You nailed it on the head!!!!!!!! After checking and rechecking I did figure out the bowls were crossed uPPPPPPPP. Now choke out full turn key on and 1st kick it lites up,if not the fist kick,Ipush choke half way in and it will fire off 2&3 rd kick!!!!!! Thaanks U-B-The-Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

hey guys i have a problem...my banshee will start but will not idle. the screws on the carb have been set correctly but the thing on top of the carb we have not idea at what it should be set at

 

I have a 03 banshee I purchased from a guy about 4 months ago he redid the top and bottom end of the motor so when I got it I did a lil more work to it like tors removal new stator new coil n plugs but before I removed the tors the bike ran fine so I wanted to do a tors delete kit on it so I did but with my delete kit i didn't have no idle screws so I ran the bike but didn't idle but it wasn't kick starting I had to push it to start it but now idle are on it but still want start any ideas please