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polaris 350 counterbalance

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  #11  
Old 06-22-2012, 07:10 AM
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Yep! OPT
 
  #12  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:20 PM
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So far so good, finally putting it all together today. One more q though. How can I test to see if the oiled is working properly. I thought about just pulling the plug wire off and turning the motor over a few times then checking the spark plug for traces of oil. I can not find anywhere that there is a way to manually feed the oil inj like some have told me, also its been sitting for over two years. Would it be wise to running a half tank or so of mixed fuel through it?
 
  #13  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:39 PM
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You have to remove the front oil pump plate to check out the oil pump for any corrosion damage to the oil pump wheel,spring or pump itself. Once the plate is off you can just twist the oil pump wheel and see if it snaps back. It's usually good to be on the safe side and mix the first tank of gas(around 50-1 ratio) until the pump checks out ok.Will just smoke a little extra on the first tank. There is a 10 mm bleed screw on top of the pump to remove any air,plus you can twist the pump wheel up all the way up by hand while engine is idling to see if oil is moving through the pump line into the carb intake manifold. OPT
 
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:16 AM
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I kinda feel like I'm the only one asking you questions but once again I do appreciate it and everything has been very helpful, but here's another. The small nipple coming from the top of the crank cover next to the pull start had a clear tube on it and seemed to lead to no where, is this just a breather?
 
  #15  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:50 AM
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This the counter balancer cavity vent tube. It originally went up and was zip tied loosely to the left frame rail. If this vent line ever pukes out milky fluid then you know the water pump seals have failed and coolant is getting into the counter balance area and venting out. This tube should be clean and open at all times. OPT
 
  #16  
Old 06-28-2012, 09:31 PM
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Perfect, thank you. By the way I was able to build up the small gouges in the cb shaft with jb weld, waiting for the last application to dry and get some emery cloth to it, so far I have dry fitted the old seals over it and they seem to fit fairly snug. Wish me luck.
 
  #17  
Old 07-01-2012, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for all the advise. Got the machine back together, went to start it and no spark. Immediately checked coil but a little confused. My digital meter is set on ohms to 20k and between the negative side of coil( where it mounts to frame) and the plug wire end I'm getting a reading of 11.87 same on the other connection. Is the coil bad?
 
  #18  
Old 07-01-2012, 08:48 PM
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Check the basics first. Did you replace the plug? Pull the plug cap off and ohm it out. Should be about 4.8 to 5k ohms on the cap.Pull the black wire from the reverse limiter,then check for spark with bare wire against head.Also pull the black wire from the cdi and check for spark if there wasn't spark from pulling the black wire on the limiter.Primary coil resistance should be .3 ohms from coil tab to ground. Secondary on coil:coil tab to end of coil wire(cap removed) 6.3k ohms. Stator exciter coil resistance:Blk/red to brn/white 120 ohms. Check these out. OPT
 
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:24 PM
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Tried all that still no spark. Tab to ground is 11.88-12.?? With meter dial set at 20k.
 
  #20  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cnelson
Tried all that still no spark. Tab to ground is 11.88-12.?? With meter dial set at 20k.
Just have the meter on ohms resistance. OPT
 


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