polaris 350 counterbalance
#1
polaris 350 counterbalance
Just purchased a 1993 350L, with known counterbalance issues. First thing I did was remove the crankcase drain plug and only a few drops of oil came out, then pulled cb plug and totally full of coolant and no oil. I stripped the side case down to cb, bearing on shaft was bad of course and seal looked bad too. I have two questions though. 1. The threaded end where impeller mount to stripped only the nut on removal and not shaft, also cb shaft itself looks okay. 2. The cb assembly has a little play in it, maybe less than 1/16 of and inch is that acceptable? Do I need the whole unit or just bearing and seal?
#2
Welcome to the forum! If you can rethread the shaft threads and if the bearing doesn't feel like it's extremely worn,then you might be able to save the counter balancer. Best to let a good machine shop do this. "IF" the bearing behind the counter balancer gear is worn out, it is not listed on Polaris replaceable parts,but I know people have replaced them. I never had the time to do this at the shop. You have to mark the balancer gear and sprocket to realign precisely and using a press and heat carefully press the shaft away from the gear and then the bearing can be removed. If you have a local bearing house you can match this bearing up.Some people have come into the shop and just ordered a new counter balancer if they bent the shaft. Others had machine shops do this and were able to save the counter balancer. Plus if the shaft where the seals ride is really corroded up to where you can't use emory cloth to at least try to clean it up to where new seals wouldn't leak again,then you would have to have this area built up and machined back down.(some I've heard have even used clear epoxy and then smoothed down) Cost could get pretty high,but a new counter balancer is close to $500 now and might be worth the effort! 350 and 400 2 stroke engines were good engines,but can be very expensive to rebuild depending on the damage. Used balancers are on Ebay,etc,but probably in the same shape as the one you have and would usually have to have the main bearing replaced anyway. OPT
#3
#4
Shouldn't be very much play when installed,so make sure the c/b bearing is in good shape.This is the problem with most of them that have a lot of time on them or damage from the coolant. Plus you need to check the very bottom bearing in the case for the counter balancer shaft (if you have the c/b out of the case) and just turn it around to make sure it's ok. Good luck. OPT
#7
Water pump bearing should be a snug fit in the water pump casing and should be fairly easy to slide the casing assembly over the shaft. More important is that the seals should be snug against the shaft and that you have them installed properly. The two seals are different and install a certain way. Best to have a reference or a manual if you don't have one. OPT
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#8
I really appreciate all the advise. I did download a manual for it, and directions aren't super clear. Anyway I emery clothed the shaft and is pretty smooth except for one small spot that I think I can fill with quick steel. The bearing is not super snug but don't need to pound it on either.
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