So I performed some maintenance my xplorer today and after finishing the work, which included replacing crank seals, rebuilding the starter, and replacing the middle chain, I can't seem to get her running decent.

Prior to the work, the machine would start on first pull or quick push of the starter, after pulling and replacing the flywheel, clutches and stator, something is a miss. I was not careful when I removed the stator plate and didn't note the location of the plate/case but noticed upon reinstallation bot the case and plate had marks. I started by lining these up exactly. It took over 8 or nice times to finally get it to fire and then only with the throttle was I able to keep it running roughly, once it came back to near idle it died. Several more attempts and nothing, I pulled the airbox lid to see if there was an obstruction and was met with a backfire in the carb. So I decided to move the stator plate about 2 mm past the case mark and was met my several failed attempts then it started and ran a little rough but then smoothed out. I shut it down and pull started it-first pull it started right up and idled. All done I though and started putting tools away. After a couple of trips from the garage to the house and I tried to start it again and nothing.

I played with the stator position (backward, forward and at mark), cleaned carb, tested spark....... I'm out of ideas????

This machine always ran great (as long as you kept an eye on the temp) and started right up no matter what the weather. I am stumped?????

 

Only way to get stator timing spot on is to at least get it running enough to where you you can reach 3000 rpms quickly. Have to have a timing light along with an accurate rpm meter so you can see the 25 degree mark on the flywheel. Most times the stator plate either lines up with or a little before/past the case mark,but since you removed it before you checked,this is trial and error as you've found out. If you can at least get it running,the timing light can help to show which way to go with the plate,advance or retard the plate. Plus could be something simple you've over looked as I'd retrace your steps.If it ran good before,should again,but electrical problems can happen at any time. This is where the service manual can help with the guides along with timing,plus electrical resistance checks on the stator itself along with the exciter coil. Problem may not just be stator timing,but possibly the stator. A 5 buck manual, if you don't have one can at least help you narrow down things along with explaining what to check better than anyone else can.DOWNLOAD 1999-2000 Polaris ATV Repair Manual ALL MODELS - Download ...

 

OPT,

Just got back from the garage, I kept hearing your voice in my head saying what is the compression, so I was able to get my gauge in under the gas tank without completely removing the tank. While I was pulling the plug, the top of the plug pulled off (the treaded piece) then the "L" shaped piece that screws into the coil wire. I retightened the plug wire connector, put in a new plug and she fired right up on the first pull.

Compression was about 115, so should be ok for a while.

One more issue as long as I have your attention; I've read a lot of people talking about air cooled and how hot is hot. I have a trail tech installed since I purchased this machine and it has always run in the upper 300's; sometimes over 400. I know the stator side crank seal was bad because when it would get hot, it would idle funny and if I opened the pull starter, it would jump about 400 RPMs. Do you think replacing the crank seals will cause the motor to run a little cooler?

p.s. my fan switch was actually working, but I had switched it after reading all of the posts about them not being to functional.

Thanks again, I always enjoy reading your posts!

GH

 

Worn,leaking crank seals can leak more as the engine warms up. Engine heat can distort them further and engines can run crappy or die. If worn too far they're the cause of many engines not starting at all..Plus yes,leaking seals cause engines to run leaner and hotter. At 115 psi you're running at the low end on compression and I'd be saving my nickels and dimes for a new top end.