Did you ever get the ATV running? I just replaced with the new system also, and it's just cranking. I went over the instructions and tips from this site, and it all looks good. It's doing what it did before I did the upgrade.
What's the easiest way to tell if you are getting spark? Pull the spark plug out and hold it to the frame and watch for a spark?
Could it be it's something else causing my problem?

 

Problem that most people had was either grounding or hooking to the wrong wire in the harness. Should be a red wire buried up in the harness that's used plus make sure the ground(brown) wire at the stator plate and main ground junction on the frame have good contact. Grind the paint around this area if necessary.The instructions don't really go into detail.

 

I checked the ground with a volt meter, I'm getting 0 resistance from a known good ground to the brown wires. So the grounds are good.
I've attached photos of the wire connections. How do they look?
The last photo with the coloured arrows:
The green arrow is my brown ground wire, I'm getting a good ground.
The brown arrow was the 2 brown connectors, straight forward, just plugged them in.
The yellow arrow is the left over yellow/red wire that is no longer used, correct?
I used jumper harness PN2461203
The black arrow is the black kill wire
The red arrow is the red wire everyone says to find tucked up in the harness. It was dirty I cleaned it and connected it using PN2410606.
With the key on I'm getting 12v on both, the kill wire and the red wire. Should this be?

 

Is this a red /white wire on the main power you have plugged in? Hard to see in the pic. Should be a solid red wire from the harness. I'd still scrape paint from the frame ground and check the brown stator ground wire that goes under the wire plate.Instructions don't show,but it needs to mounted under the wire plate bolt. Some people have had problems there. Been awhile(3 1/2 years now) since I've done one,guess I need to look over the instructions again..

 

Are you asking about the wire on the ATV where I have the red arrow on the 3rd picture? That red wire is actually 2 red/white wires into a barrel fitting. It's connected to the included jumper harness (PN2410606), which is red with white dashes. That jumper harness is connected to the other included jumper harness (PN2461203), which is connected to the stator harness.

Here's what the instructions say about the jumper wires I used.
Jumper harness PN2461203 is used between the stator harness, the Red
power wire and Black kill wire.
Jumper harness PN2410606 is used between jumper harness 2461203
and the red power wire.

Am I connected to the wrong red wire up in the harness? How many loose wires are hiding up there? lol
Just double checking... That yellow wire that is not used in the previous picture next to the yellow arrow, does not get used, right?
I have the brown ground mounted behind the plate by the stator. I will take some paint off frame under the ground bolt near the coil.

 

Has to be the red wire not the red/white (auxiliary power) wire that only has power when the key is turned on. Dig a little deeper into the harness sheathing. The red wire is up there.

 

I went out to garage to look for another red wire, found a red wire that is cut and crimped into a female spade stakon fitting. That's where I hooked up the winch solenoid wire years ago when I bought the ATV. While out there I decided to take some paint off the frame for the ground bolt, then put it back together. Turned the key a couple times then heard a faint wimper of the engine trying to run. I tried again while pulling the chock out and vroooom!!
It's been over a yr since I had this running, so happy.

My question now is, can I leave it on that wire, or should I keep digging for another that is solid red?

 

Think your problem was a bad ground not a power wire problem that many people have encountered on these kits.This crimped red sealed wire is what the ignition kit instructions are talking about as the main power wire in the harness loom.You've got the ignition tied into the yellow/red auxiliary wire that powers up when the key switch is on.If mine I'd hook the ignition up to the red and swap the winch solenoid lead to the yellow/ red if there's not another unused red in the wiring loom. The winch would then be switch controlled which is how we hooked up winches at the shop so power wouldn't be constant on the solenoid.If you have one of these old round metal White-Rodgers solenoids,had a batch of these that would get hot,the reason why we did this.Later on we had a recall on these.You might want to make sure you have the updated solenoid. If you have the one that's slotted on both ends you're ok..
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2001/...TV-Winch-Kits/
http://www.warn.com/atv/a2000_recall_notice.shtml

 

I'll look at the solenoid tonight, but I do remember something about the recall way back when. Thanks for the info.
I took the ATV for a short ride around the property in low, when I stayed above 10 miles/hr the POD would flash STATR. When I stopped it would go away. I read in the manual that it flashes this when wheel speed is sensed but not engine RPM for longer than 10 sec? Should I check the gap between the fly wheel and the pickup coil?

The red wire that I'm looking for, when is it suppose to have power? All the time?

 

Red wire is powered at all times. Check charging back at the battery at an idle as it is now. Should be 14-14.5 volts. If it just shows battery volts at an idle(12 volts or less) then you still don't have it hooked up right,the reason why the "statr" shows up on the display. Try swapping the red winch wire with the red/white that you have on the jumper harness and see if this solves the problem.