2001 Kawasaki Lakota Sport Hop-up Series
| Lakota Sport Modifications, Part 1 The long awaited ATV Connection series on making the Kawasaki Lakota Sport 300 a better ATV |
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During the initial testing (Initial Impressions) of the 300 Sport we had problems with the shift lever, rear brake lever and the handlebars. We commented on it again during the full road test. (Road Test)The shift lever required a 10-1/2 boot so the rubber pad would fall just behind the toes. The rear brake lever required bending the ankle farther than is humanly possible without removing your foot off the peg and stepping directly down on the pedal. And the handlebars required an apes reach for the outside arm in a turn. These problems will be addressed during part one. | How We Did It
Here is the lever shortened to accommodate shoe sizes 9 – 9-1/2. About a half inch was removed.
Here is the lever shortened to accommodate shoe sizes 9 – 9-1/2. About a half inch was removed. With the 1/2in. piece removed, the two ends are V’d to allow full weld penetration. Also note the removal, with a wire wheel, of the factory applied black paint.
This is the lever after the welding process. We used a Mig to reduce splatter and holes.
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After cooling and the weld cleaned up, the lever was painted. In this case we used PJ1’s Fast Black, Epoxy Black. When dry, the lever was test fitted on the shift shaft. As expected the shift pad was out of alignment (not parallel) with the footpeg. The shift pad stub stalk was welded in a straight line with the butt end. However since we cut out the curve, we knew it would not be straight!
| Using a Crescent Wrench as shown, we carefully bent the shift pad until it was parallel to the foot peg.
The finished product! |
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Next we proceded to adjust the handlebars back, so the reach would not be so far for the outboard hand during a turn. Stock, when we turned the handlebars full lock, we had to reach as far as we could with the outboard hand.
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How We Did It
The first step was to measure the handlebars. The next step was to remove the handlebar end weights and wrap the grip with a paper towl and slide on a 4 ft. pipe. Then we applied torque until the bar began to bend. Equal force was applied to the other side until both sides were equal and 1-1/2 inches further back than when we started.
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shows the linkage with the brake pedal at rest. Note the slot in the clevis above the pivot pin. As the brake pedal is pressed Notice above just how much free-play is built into the rear brake before you can use the brake at all! The image on the right downward, this space is taken up until the pivot pin contacts the top of the clevis as shown in the right frame. This little bit of movement translates into 1-1/2in. of movement at the pedal!
This close-up of the clevis shows the amount of free-play in the rear brake linkage. Tighten this up and the brake will be actuated without all that free-travel.
This is the clevis after the hole has been closed up with mig weld and refinished.
When reassembling the clevis, adjust the pedal height so it is level with the footpeg via the twin nuts and threaded shaft. And don’t forget to reinstall the cotter pin in the pivot pin hole located on the back side of the clevis.
Our testers agreed that turning is now easier because you don’t have to reach so far in a full lock turn because the handlebars are now closer yet they do not interfere with the rider. Also, being able to shift without repositioning your left foot was much easier as was not having to move you foot to actuate the rear brake. And guess what? The rear brakes ARE powerful now that they can be easily actuated! And they quickly overcome the slippery factory rear tires. But that is another episode!