chain on the brain

Dear ATV Connection:

I have a 2005 Yamaha Raptor that’s just about due for a new chain. I was wondering if you could help me in defining the fearing difference if I were to change the number of teeth on the countershaft sprocket (instead of the rear sprocket). I was told the quad works better in the woods by dropping it one tooth. Also is there any tip to feeding the chain around the countershaft sprocket without it getting all jammed up/ bloodying knuckles in the process?

It just so happens we have a favorite trick around the ATV Connection workshop when it comes to the art of getting a new chain neatly wrapped around the rather restrictive space that is the countershaft sprocket area. Once you’ve disconnected the old chain, don’t be hasty in yanking it off. Instead, attach the new chain using a masterlink then by simply tugging the old chain free, you are simultaneously installing the new one. Just make sure your quad is in neutral first.

The first part of your question is a bit puzzling considering the logic displayed in the second part. Rarely do tuners try to change their gear ratios via the countershaft sprocket on account of the fact that it’s so difficult (and time-consuming) to access compared to the rear cog. Additionally our clever little above tip on installing a new chain by connecting it to the old one is null and void if you’re planning on removing the CS sprocket in the first place. That said, we’ll assume you’re asking just for the sake of curiosity- dropping one tooth on the countershaft sprocket is roughly a two and half tooth modification to the rear.

Finally, even if you somehow managed to gain performance by altering the number of teeth on the front sprocket, we would still recommend going back to the stock number up front then changing the rear sprocket instead, if for nothing else because doing so will extend the life of your chain and sprockets.

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