I just went and took the 135 for a ride.I just cleaned and adjusted the carb,including lowering the needle. I think it might have something to do with the clutch as far as the loss of power goes.When i have it moving , the thing flies . I also noticed the 90 clutch works a little better.I have changed the oil also.This should be done before you ride.The oil it is shipped with is for just that shipping.I always check my bike before and after riding.I will do it for the children also.Chance favors the prepared mind.Thanks.

 

I had to tighten a few bolts etc....this is definitely an overheating prob....it might have been an oil issue.. although I still wouldn't have expected it to overheat that quickly...the kids only 40 something lbs....i checked to make sure it had enough oil in it prior to riding, but I specifically asked the guy if I needed to change out the oil, and he said no...soooo of course i listened to him... oh well....that's not the only prob....

- It was missing two wheel nuts( I went out an bought a couple)
- One of the bolts on the front drum brakes was bent so the tire rim wouldn't even go on...I had to heat it up with a torch, put some nuts on it and straighten it out..
- the emergency stop cord they give you with it broke(I tested it prior to riding)....then I used some 550 cord I had, and when I tested it again, the whole thing ripped off the atv
- then the rear brake light broke off at the weld(affter 20 min of riding)
- the battery stinks, it won't even start it unless I have my car charger maxing it out for 15min prior to hitting the start button...even then it takes a few trys as well as recharging...
- then the whole overheating issue.....

got to love Christmas.....[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

That was a big help in getting my 200cc coolster running. However, there was a "V or U" shaped part that popped out when removing the needle. The width at the top is about the same as the throat. It came straight up and out and fell through the drain in my garage that is a very deep dry well with a lot of water and sludge in it. There is no way I can retrieve the the thing, plus I don't even know what it does. The bike started but runs very poorly, and now the throttle won't return to close. I to manually push the assembly back into the bottom of the carb, so I assume this clip most hold the spring down at some point. I really have no idea. Is there a way to get parts for this carb, or am I doomed to buy a new one. I got this bike for my 12 year old son for x-mas, he's just shaking his head.

Additionally when starting sometimes the bike will crank, and other times it won't. Like a safety switch is kicking in some where, but it is sporadic.

Any help would by outstanding. As I'm at full stop.

 

the Clip holds the needle in place. Im almost positive you need it for it to work.

 

The needle is held in place by a clip. I think it is the one you described. Look back in this post and there are pictures of what it looks like.I dont think you will have a problem finding a new one. The needle will affect the idle and the operation of the throttle if it is not held in place by that clip.Dont try to run it without the clip.You will most probably bend the needle.Try not to use the cable adjustment as an idle adjustment.The starter will not engauge properly when cold and with the throttle in an open position .I have no idea why,but mine do the same thing.

 

I just wanted to keep bumping this to the top of forums. After My son watched so patiently yesterday to start is Redcat 70 with no avail so he could ride it in the snow, I knew I had to do something. Both my Redcat 70 and Redcat 90 are both hard to start when it is warm. I wish a admin of the site with Pin this to the top so we wouldn't have to keep bumping such a good article to the top.

 

Just my 2 cents but...I have not done quite as much work on a 4 stroke as a 2 stroke however, There does seem to be a consistency with carb adjustment or clogging. I have done extensive tuning on carbs to understand something. If your bike worked fine just prior to shutting it down and you find it runs rough or has a hard time idling shortly there after, aside from temp. its a pretty good assumption there is a clog. For people with little to no familiarity with carbs there is a simple attempt to unclog minor debris from your carb without tearing into it. This has worked for me about 85% of the time. before starting remove the air cleaner, first make sure your bike is clean so no debris (sand, dirt) can get into the carb while running, Then after bike is at temp. rev the bike to between 3/4 to WOT and place your hand completely over the rear of the carb cutting all of the air supply to the carb. This will is most cases force the material through the jets clearing them. You should notice a difference within a couple of trys. This may help and it may not. This is just something to try if you do not feel comfortable tearing apart a carb as well as possibly saving some quality riding time.

 

I am glad that Wi has its winter. I couldn't imagine racing year round($$$$$)

 

2manytoys - Thanks for the tutorial on the carb adjustment. It was just what I needed.

 

I just purchased an 90cc Roketa ATV for my son. The ATV looks great, however I am having a difficult time getting the atv to run right. The Atv will idal fine for several minutes then die. The ATV seem to run cold and dies once the throttle is opened up. I feel its more of an adjustment issue however, I don't like to go at things without some knowlege of what needs to take place. I was able to adjust the idal faster but still seems to die after running. Any ideas?


Thanks

Rick