1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

HOW TO carb adjustment on any Chinese atv. Kazuma, Yamoto, Redcat, Baja, Sunl, etc...

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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 01:15 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by supergroomer
I just got his quad for my son. I starts fine with the choke all the way open. As soon as I try to close the choke(on the side of the carb), the engine dies. I have tried to increase the idle speed but that does not seem to help. I will stay running with the choke open but if you close it more then just a little, it dies. Any help would be appreciated. The place that I bought it from is helpful, but closed on the weekends. My son really wants to try his new quad. Will following the directions in the beginning of this thread, will that solve my problem?

Thanks in advance

Supergroomer
Supergroomer.
I know I'm not an expert but I got confused with my sons 110cc ATV yesterday.
His bike had the handlebar mounted choke lever that connects to the choke lever on the carb.

You said that the bike dies when the choke is in the closed position.

I just wanted you to know that a closed choke is what you want trying to start a cold engine(means that the choke blade inside the carb is closed drawing more fuel into the engine).

Looking inside the carb without the air filter on,is the blade open or closed when the engine is dying?

Also,I bought a paint can looking thing of Berryman Chemtool.

It is a heavy duty carb cleaner and solvent.

Please if you use this wear neoprene gloves.It can cause cancer if absorbed throught the skin.

These little chinese carbs are zinc plated aluminum and should only be submersed into the cleaner for 5-7 min.

I pulled out everything in my carb(bowl,float,needle,juts,choke assembly)

After the soak,rinse real good with water.

Using compressed air,blow off the water,inside the jets and the carb passages and reassemble the carb.

Turn the small partly recessed screw next to the spring backed idle screw all the way in then counter clockwise 2 turns.

This did it for my sons ATV and it purrs like a kitted and runs strong thru all the gears carrying my(im 200 lbs.)

Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by skydogg123
I brought home a buddies redcat 50 he got from a neighbor. It wants to start, but dies after about 4 seconds. I took the carb apart, and the only thing I see out of the ordinary is the Main Jet does not thread all the way down. It bottoms out with about half the threads still exposed. I measured the hole, and it is definitely bottoming out with the seat, but my question is: Is this normal, or did the previous owner try changing out the jet and install the wrong one?

Thanks
I have never seen a carb with a main jet like that..Doesnt mean the Chinese didnt make 1 but I doubt it.. Id guess its the wrong jet..
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by 2manytoys
Alot of people have a hard time starting and running the Chinese atv's when new and also when cold. Most of these come with a gelpac in the carb floatbowl for shipping so it does not ruin the float. It is supposed to dissolve when fuel mixes with it. Many make the mistake of driving the atv once started. This is a mistake. You must let it idle for at least 30min for the gel to dissolve. If you do not do this you will risk the chance of clogging the jets and the initial adjustments will not work and it will not run right untill all the gel is gone. Most of the time these will start with the movement of the choke then you can lightly feather the throttle to keep it running. If you can reach the idle screw you can turn it up till you dont have to feather the throttle. After about 30 min you can make the final adjustments. CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE YOU RIDE!!! These come with a cheap shipping oil and must be changed or engine damage will occure. It is best to use an oil that is classified JASO MA certified made for 4 stroke or motorcycle engines which are made for wet clutch applications. These have no friction modifiers that are bad for clutches. You can even use diesel oil like Rotella-T 15w40. These oils can be found at your local WalMart or autoparts store. Synthetics are fine as long as it has the same classifications listed above.

The idle screw is the screw on the carb with a SPRING around it. The air/fuel screw is the flathead screw usually before the idle screw closest to the air filter. Some newer carbs have the a/f screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Here are some basic adjustments to get it started and to tune it once broke in.

The mixture screw had been set-up at the factory before shipment and should not have to be reset. Only a small adjustment may be needed due to climate and elevation. If necessary, refer to the adjustment as below:

1. Make sure the air cleaner is clean.
2. make sure the choke lever is OFF while running.
3. Warm the engine up for 3-5 minutes.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until fully closed,
then turn the mixture screw 2 full turns out.
5. Adjust the idling screw until the engine idles EASILY.
6. Turn the mixture screw slightly clockwise and
counterclockwise until the highest engine REVs is obtained.
7. Adjust the idling screw again until the engine idles
EASILY.
8. Repeat step 6 & 7 till you get the best
performance...
*ENGINE IDLES EASILY means:
The engine idling screw must be set correctly to get a
slowest engine idle(1500 rpm - 1600 rpm), but does not
cut out if you press the accelerator quickly.


Cold weather starting will need an additional adjustment to help aid the starting process.

Most of the manual choke carbs have an adjustable needle inside the carb. Lowering the clip (raising the needle) you will be able to open the throttle and get more fuel into the intake quicker. This helps in the cold weather because the colder the weather the leaner the mixture is. You want richer in the colder weather.

1- Unscrew and pull the top of the carb off with the cable and there will be a slide with the needle in the center. (Notice the way the carb slide came out) In step #6 it must go back in the same way it came out.
2- Disconnect the cable through a small slot in the side of the slide.
3- Now you can take the needle out from the slide.
4- The needle will have a very small e clip in a slot on the needle. The needle will have 5 slots. Lowering the clip is richer the and raising the clip will lean it out.
5- Put the clip on the lowest setting for cold weather. DO NOT DROP THE CLIP! They are very small and hard to find.
6- Reverse the process with installing the needle back into the slide, installing the cable, slide the slide back into the carb and screw the cap tight. Remember in step #1 how the slide came out. It MUST go back in the same way.
7- Now make any adjustments as stated above in the carb tuning.

WARNING!!!WARNING!!WARNING!!!
Remember in step #1 and step #6 I said the slide must go back in the same way it came out? The slide will go in 2 ways. ONLY 1 way is the right way. If the slide is not put in the same way, upon start the quad will take off at full throttle. Make sure when you go to start the quad you have a hand on the kill tether or switch this way if it does take off you can dissable it. If this happens the slide was put back in 180 degrees out. This is very important for the safety of you and anyone standing in front of or around the quad.


These steps will work on 99% of these atv's. They are very hard to get running and people get upset when they turn the key and it does not run. Dont forget these are not set up at a dealer like the name brands so the most basic adjustments are done from the factory. These are built in china and the temps are hot so thats how the adjustments are done. As we all know in America the temps vary and these are not set at all for cold temps.

In some cases you will have tuned the quad and it runs very well but one day it will not idle or has poor performance. Most times it is because the carb has sucked in some debris from the tank. You will have to dissasemble the carb and clean out the pilot and main jet. Make sure you have a good inline fuel filter. This will help prevent this failure.

Hopefully this helps everyone with these concerns. These really do run good once tuned properly and with proper maintenance they will last a long time. And if you have any questions PM me and I will try to help as best as I can. Also once the temps start to get hot you may need to raise the clip for the warmer temps.

Good Luck!
2many
Just wondering if in your opinion would these instructions also work on a snow machine
 
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by gpriebe
Just wondering if in your opinion would these instructions also work on a snow machine
I would think its pretty close...do you have a brand new snow machine from China?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #215  
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Default Baja 250 will not idle.

Thanks for the carb set-up information, I will try that. I am a new member here and have just purchased a used 2006 Baja Wilderness 250. It seems to run quite good at higher RPM but will not idle making it hard to shift into reverse.
Thanks from easyhope
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #216  
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Welcome to the forum easyhope!

If this doesnt get you running well...please ask a question..There are lots of folks here willing to help..
 
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:47 PM
  #217  
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I just got a used 50cc quad for my son,I rebuilt it new piston NGK plug air and fuel filters. The cam timing and the valve lash are correct, I've cleaned the carb out including the jets and all passages in the carb and tried the adjustments per the instructions.
It starts kinda hard, gotta choke it all the time to start it. It runs ok at an idle and will run ok if it's throttled slowly but bogs and will stall if it's throttled to fast. I tried adjusting the needle up and down the only discernible difference was at the full rich setting it seemed to have the "eight-strokes" problem described earlier in this thread.
everything seems to point to a lean condition (bogging, flat, no low end power) except the sputtering at the full rich needle setting. I thinking I need a bigger pilot jet what size would you recommend for sea level average temps. the carb says japan standard and is cast with a PZ19.
Thanks
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #218  
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Default Will not run at WOT

The only way that I can get it to run on the top end is to close the choke about half, then it runs good. I have took the carb of and cleaned it out but didn't help much. Have adjusted the carb like in the first post but it still don't run right. Any ideas?
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 03:14 AM
  #219  
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Sounds like your too lean on the main needle. Try moving your clip ring down a notch or two.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by D.Vanhorn
The only way that I can get it to run on the top end is to close the choke about half, then it runs good. I have took the carb of and cleaned it out but didn't help much. Have adjusted the carb like in the first post but it still don't run right. Any ideas?
I think you need a larger main jet. and more than likely a larger pilot jet wouldnt hurt either.
 
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