Hello,

I am kind of new to this whole posting thing because all I used to do was reading the posts so I never registered. But I can't seem to find an answer to my problem so I have chosen to be a registered user.

So I got a Roketa 110cc china quad. I have no spark. I've got a lot of swapable parts since we have (3) of these dang ATV's. I know alot about the electrical system already and have a variety of good tools to choose from. If I hold the spark plug to a good ground and crank the engine I have no spark. Then, I can take the blk/wht wire out from the CDI module and crank engine, STILL NO SPARK. So I probably don't have a kill switch problem. I measured the AV volts coming from the coil under the flywheel (blk/red wire) while cranking and it will get up to about 56 VAC. I tested the pick up/trigger coil on DC and AC volts while cranking and I get 0.00 SOMETIMES 0.01 VAC. Arent I supposed to have about 0.5VAC? I tested the wire from CDI module to ignition coil (blk/y) and got nothing on either AC or DC volts. I think I have a good ground at the CDI module (solid green) to the battery (-/negative terminal) measures out to be 0.02 ohms resistance.

Help! I don't know what to do now and I still have no spark. Any advice is thankful.

 

Yes, I agree you don't have a kill switch problem.

0.3 volts AC is closer to average. It depends on the meter as well as the actual voltage put out by the trigger winding. 0.01 volts AC is definately too low. Try disconnecting the CDI and measuring the resistance to ground of the trigger/pickup wire in the wiring harness (engine stopped). It should read 150 ohms or so. If it is open then look for a broken wire on the way to the stator. Often there is another connector right at the stator. Look for bad connections there, and also try measuring the resistance of the pickup/trigger wire to ground at that location. If it is still open then pull off the side cover and see if it is disconnected inside.

Another possibility is a shorted pickup coil/trigger wire. Obviously you would measure zero ohms in this case - and you would look for pinched wires, etc.

If your aren't getting a trigger to the CDI you will not measure anything but zero volts at the coil connection. This is further evidence that you've already zeroed in on the problem in the trigger pickup coil or pickup wiring.

 

Okay I touched one probe to the blue/wht wire in the cdi CONNECTOR (cdi disconnected) and the other probe to the solid green wire in connector. I set the meter to 20K ohms and it read 0.13. (The blue/wht wire is going to the pick up/trigger)

What does this mean to you?

 

I missed this post yesterday. Sorry for the delay in responding.

0.13 on the 20K ohm range means 0.13K or 130 ohms. That sounds about right, but verify that using a lower scale on your meter (like 200 ohms full scale).

Before you reported that you measured 0.00 or 0.01 volts AC on this trigger wire while cranking. I would recheck that to see if you still read the same value again. Make sure you are on the lowest AC voltage scale.

I assume that you have already swapped the easy to change parts between your 3 quads (coil, CDI, etc) without any change in the problem. Try checking the cranking voltage tirgger pin on one of your other quads to see if you get the more normal 0.3 volts AC. This will verify that your meter is measuring this complex voltage waveform like most other meters.

It still sounds like you aren't triggering the CDI because you don't see anything on the wire to the coil. Again this is meter dependant, but you usually see occasional random numbers interspersed with zero volts depending on whether the meter samples during the brief ignition pulse or the long periods of nothing in between.

If you find your meter reads a normal trigger voltage on a working quad and low voltage on your 'no spark' quad then that further verifies the trigger pickup coil is not working. If the resistance is right then the wiring is OK. That leaves a shorted turn (change the stator), or the pickup coil is too far away from the flywheel to make a good trigger signal. Try removing the engine cover and see if you can adjust the pickup coil a little closer to the flywheel. Look for a raised bump on the flywheel that must pass under the pickup coil. That gap should be very narrow. I don't know what it should be exactly for your quad, but as a guideline Eton quads specify this gap at 0.025". Small changes in this gap makes huge differences in the pickup coil output voltage.

 

(Dammit I have to write this whole thing a second time. When I submitted the reply "the page was not available" when I went back, all my reply was deleted.) ANYWAY

Hey I'm glad you replied in the time that you did! Thanks for your time.

Guess what? I have spark! I have no idea what I did, but I took 30 minutes and carefully cleaned up the inside of the stator cover and sanded all grounding spots. I also removed all the metal particles attracted to the pickup magnet. After that, I hooked everything back up and got erractic voltage going to the igntion coil! I was so relieved to see the fat blue spark again. It teased me for a while and wouldn't spark. Frustrated, the only thing I thought to do was make the connection 100% at the CDI module by cleaning and bending the prongs. After that everything was okay. I also verified all my spare parts were effective so this has turned out good.

I have a dirtbike (no batt or headlight, simple wiring) that has no spark. I verified the cdi module, ignition coil works and the kill wiring is just one wire to the handle bar kill, nothing else. So this should be easy. Hardly anything left to detect! I noticed the flywheel bump lightly scrapes the pickup magnet. Will this be a problem? Or should I just let it file it self down after a few rpm? The stator is brand new also. Same exact china one as before. Except the new one came with the "alternator" coil (is this accurate?) it maintains the battery and headlight if they were hooked up. I just pulled out the wires and unbolted the coil. I now have an electromagnet to play with! Is it going to be a problem if I were to leave the coil directly wired to a 12V battery for too long? (to pick up various metal pieces, showing how cool it is to someone)

 

(Dammit I have to write this whole thing a second time. When I submitted the reply "the page was not available" when I went back, all my reply was deleted.) ANYWAY

Hey I'm glad you replied in the time that you did! Thanks for your time.

Guess what? I have spark! I have no idea what I did, but I took 30 minutes and carefully cleaned up the inside of the stator cover and sanded all grounding spots. I also removed all the metal particles attracted to the pickup magnet. After that, I hooked everything back up and got erractic voltage going to the igntion coil! I was so relieved to see the fat blue spark again. It teased me for a while and wouldn't spark. Frustrated, the only thing I thought to do was make the connection 100% at the CDI module by cleaning and bending the prongs. After that everything was okay. I also verified all my spare parts were effective so this has turned out good.

I have a dirtbike (no batt or headlight, simple wiring) that has no spark. I verified the cdi module, ignition coil works and the kill wiring is just one wire to the handle bar kill, nothing else. So this should be easy. Hardly anything left to detect! I noticed the flywheel bump lightly scrapes the pickup magnet. Will this be a problem? Or should I just let it file it self down after a few rpm? The stator is brand new also. Same exact china one as before. Except the new one came with the "alternator" coil (is this accurate?) it maintains the battery and headlight if they were hooked up. I just pulled out the wires and unbolted the coil. I now have an electromagnet to play with! Is it going to be a problem if I were to leave the coil directly wired to a 12V battery for too long? (to pick up various metal pieces, showing how cool it is to someone)

 

Yeah, me too. I've learned to highlight everything I've written, then Cntl C it to copy. That way if the connection gets corrupted for any reason I can start over and Cntl V (paste) my text back into the reply software.

This is extremely interesting to me. Especially the part about removing the "metal particles" from the pickup coil magnet. There have been quite a few others who have reported only a 'single spark' when the starter is turned off. Some of those have reported that they fixed the problem by cleaning up the stator and removing rust accumulations and debris from around the pickup coil. If you look back through my earlier posts I pretty much discounted that. But maybe I am wrong.

Now you, out of the blue, have brought up a similar observation again. This time it's 'no spark' instead of 'one' spark, but all the indicators point to the pickup coil.

Maybe this will amount to nothing more than happenstance. Or maybe this is a break through. You just might be a technological pioneer... If so, perhaps it should be called the NathanH1991 effect!

If it hits at low temperatures I think it would really hit at even higher temperatures when the flywheel heats up and expands. I would set the gap at 0.025" following the eton example. All these chinese manufacturers don't do much engineering - they just copy each other - so one procedure is probably as good as the next. I don't know this for certain, but I do know the flywheel and pickup coil should not be hitting each other.

So this is the battery charge winding that you don't need. It usually is 1.5 ohms or so. So that means if you put 12 volts across it it will draw 9 amps (current = voltage divided by the resistance). That means it will dissipate 108 watts of power. That's a lot of heat. So don't go to bed with the coil hooked up to a zillion amp hour battery. Monitor the coil temperature with your hands, and if it gets too hot then unplug it. Else, have fun.

 

Thats why you should never buy a Roketa ATV.


I have a Roketa ATV-87. It is the biggest piece of **** ever. I bought it a couple years ago and the problems with it started even before i got it. First it took for ever to deliver, about 3 months. Than when i got it i had to put it together myself and than i figured out that some of the bolts that came with it had a different thread than the nuts. so i had to go and buy some other bolts. When i finally got it to ride, after 3 rides there was already a big crack in the rear axle. So i took pictures of it and took it apart to repair it. So than I mailed the pictures with information to roketa for a new axle. First i thought that I wouldn't have to pay for it but there costumer support sucks and i didn't get my part for free although i have a 6 months warranty. So i told them okay whatever, i will just pay for it. But than the next problem came. They didn't have the right parts so they said that they would order it and sent it to me. I waited 2 months and than i mailed them again. They said that they still didn't have it so i waited 1 more month and mailed them again. I didn't get a mail back within 2 weeks so i mailed them again. and i stil didn't get mail back so i guess they are not going to help me and now im stuck with a broken Roketa ATV-87 and wasted 2500 dollar. thats why you should never buy a Roketa ATV. So now i bought some other atv's and they run just fine and don't have any problems with them. My Suzuki king quad 750 axi is perfect and My sons Yamaha wolverine 350 is a nice atv for him. Those atvs were way more expensive but that is worth it because they are way better and they will run for years and not only for 3 rides.

 

hey i posted a video know one has replyed not sure if its in the right area so im posting every were lol

i have a 250cc chinese atv with clutch, its turning over but not igniting the gas even tho the spark plugg works if i have a ground problem with the killswitch how would i find and fix the problem ill post a video describing the problem obviously this is a really simple fix i just cant figure it out please help! thanks