i think the two missing wires is the problem

 

I had assumed that it was the ignition switch that had 4 wires. Hmmm.

Remember that the 4 wire ignition switches are two separate switches ganged together on a common shaft. One applies battery power to lights, starter interlock circuitry, and CDI power (on DC powered CDIs only). The other switch is used to kill a running engine when the ignition switch is turned off. But you are not having a problem shutting the quad off - you are having a no spark problem. And you CDI is missing the kill switch wire which normally would go to the ignition switch. Both of these things you describe could only put the quad in "can't shut it off" mode, not "can't get any spark mode". And if you have a DC powered CDI all of this is moot. You don't need the kill switch wires on the ignition switch, because removing power to the CDI switch shuts down the CDI - killing spark. Remember, AC powered CDIs run off a separate AC supply from the stator that is present any time the engine is turning.

Check those two wires off the ignition switch. If one has battery power (+12 volts) all the time, and one has 12 volts only when the ignition switch is on then your problem of no spark problem has nothing to do with the ignition switch 'missing wires' or the missing kill switch connection at the CDI.

 

Well this is new information .

Your start button doesn't work?

But yes, you will still get readings as far as testing the CDI Ignition Power pin as outlined before when jumping the solenoid.

 

I bet not.

But do the tests posted earlier to see which version CDI you have and then lets see .

Also make sure your two ignition switch wires has one wire hot all the time, and one wire only hot when the switch is on.

 

Ok I have one constant power and one power with the switch on. I haven't tested the cdi bc I don't have a meter here. I'm thinking it is dc. What would that mean then?

 

Thinking it is a DC CDI isn't really the same as measuring and verifying that it is a DC CDI. You really are going to need a meter .

Let's assume it is a DC CDI (which you will verify first by seeing that you have +12 volts at the CDI power pin with the ignition switch on):

1) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the "run" position.

2) Measure the resistance (using your meter) of the Timing Trigger pin on the CDI wiring harness connector to ground. Use the 200 ohm or 500 ohm scale. You are looking for roughly 150 ohms (which is the same as 0.15 K Ohms).

3) Set your meter to the lowest AC voltage scale you have. Measure the AC voltage on the timing trigger pin (in the wiring harness) to ground while cranking the engine. Jump the solenoid if you have to. You should see 0.2 to 0.4 volts AC.

[I'm wondering if we shouldn't perhaps fix the start button problem first, and why this wasn't higher up on your list of problems, but I can go either way..... ].

4) Set your meter to measure resistance (ohms) on the lowest scale you have. Measure the Ignition Coil pin resistance in the harness to Ground. You should see something like 0.3 ohms to ground (but not zero).

5) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC voltage on the 20 volt scale. Measure the AC voltage on the Ignition Coil Pin of the CDI while cranking the engine (or jumping the solenoid in your case). You should see mostly zero readings with random numbers popping up as your meter captures the spark event.

Here is the CDI Picture again so you don't have to scroll back several pages...


The big picture:

The spark is generated by many components, and all the wiring between them. The center of this system is the CDI. It seems reasonable then to start in the center. The idea is to measure all the inputs to the CDI (power and trigger) and see if they measure up, then measure the output side of the CDI and see what's happening there. If the inputs to the CDI aren't there then we go back towards the power and trigger sources. If the CDI inputs are OK, then we look at the CDI output, etc. Divide and conquer...

 

Ok got my meter. I have dc cdi. It was 11 volts with the ignition on.

I have not messed with the start button bc it's an easy fix. Hopefully. Should be. I had the same problem with the 250 but found out it has a safety switch on the brake pedal.


I want to say thank you for your time, knowledge, and help.

 

I'm getting .8 on #1

I'm not getting anything on step 3

.3 on #4