110 cc renegade
Sep 18, 2011 | 08:31 PM
#1
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Weekend Warrior
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110 cc renegade
so i just recently bought a used peace sport 110 renegade atv everything is pretty much brand new but someone messed with the wires to the point where i dont even kno what im looking at so i need a wiring diagram.....any help???? please and thank you
Sep 19, 2011 | 12:06 AM
#2
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From: Tracy, California, USA
Peace_ATV_Wiring[1].pdf
So after you look at the diagram... What exactly are the problems you are having?
Sep 19, 2011 | 04:43 PM
#3
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Courtesy of Istatzer earlier today here is a 110cc Peace ATV wiring diagram. I don't know if it matches yours or not...
Attachment 5398
So after you look at the diagram... What exactly are the problems you are having?
Attachment 5398
So after you look at the diagram... What exactly are the problems you are having?
Sep 19, 2011 | 11:37 PM
#5
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From: Tracy, California, USA
It's a bit confusing for me too 
.
Starter solenoids have to do with whether or not the engine cranks the starter motor. It has absolutley *nothing* to do with spark. I'm confused about whether the starter is turning or not. You say that after changing the solenoid you still "got nothing", but you can "hear it turn over". I just want to make sure that your engine is actually being turned by the starter motor, or are you just talking about the starter solenoid going "click" and the engine is not actually being turned.
If your starter motor is turning, then the procedure for finding the cause of a no spark problem is pretty standard. You'll need a good meter, but fortunately these are really cheap these days - much less than the cost of just throwing parts at the problem:
. Starter solenoids have to do with whether or not the engine cranks the starter motor. It has absolutley *nothing* to do with spark. I'm confused about whether the starter is turning or not. You say that after changing the solenoid you still "got nothing", but you can "hear it turn over". I just want to make sure that your engine is actually being turned by the starter motor, or are you just talking about the starter solenoid going "click" and the engine is not actually being turned.
If your starter motor is turning, then the procedure for finding the cause of a no spark problem is pretty standard. You'll need a good meter, but fortunately these are really cheap these days - much less than the cost of just throwing parts at the problem:
Is this a picture of your CDI?
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Sep 22, 2011 | 09:48 PM
#6
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Weekend Warrior
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It's a bit confusing for me too .
Starter solenoids have to do with whether or not the engine cranks the starter motor. It has absolutley *nothing* to do with spark. I'm confused about whether the starter is turning or not. You say that after changing the solenoid you still "got nothing", but you can "hear it turn over". I just want to make sure that your engine is actually being turned by the starter motor, or are you just talking about the starter solenoid going "click" and the engine is not actually being turned.
If your starter motor is turning, then the procedure for finding the cause of a no spark problem is pretty standard. You'll need a good meter, but fortunately these are really cheap these days - much less than the cost of just throwing parts at the problem:
. Starter solenoids have to do with whether or not the engine cranks the starter motor. It has absolutley *nothing* to do with spark. I'm confused about whether the starter is turning or not. You say that after changing the solenoid you still "got nothing", but you can "hear it turn over". I just want to make sure that your engine is actually being turned by the starter motor, or are you just talking about the starter solenoid going "click" and the engine is not actually being turned.
If your starter motor is turning, then the procedure for finding the cause of a no spark problem is pretty standard. You'll need a good meter, but fortunately these are really cheap these days - much less than the cost of just throwing parts at the problem:
Sep 22, 2011 | 11:07 PM
#7
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From: Tracy, California, USA
You could try the the sponsor of this group (Mainstreet Motorsports). Gary that company has posted here before and seems very knowledgable.
I think if you use google to search for what you want you be overwhelmed with parts sources. eBay is another source. But search for the part your looking for with "chinese ATV" appended. Don't look for "Peace" atv stuff.
Remember that there are numerous chinese quad vendors but the parts are most often generic and interchangable. Look for similar pictures and matching connectors. For example, the ignition switch on your quad (according to the earlier wiring diagram) is a generic standard ignition switch used on zillions of different chinese quads. Just buy one and plug it in. If your wiring harness hasn't been hacked up you'll be good to go most likely.
Be careful with regulators and CDI's. There are some pitfalls here. Check back here before spending money on these items.
I think if you use google to search for what you want you be overwhelmed with parts sources. eBay is another source. But search for the part your looking for with "chinese ATV" appended. Don't look for "Peace" atv stuff.
Remember that there are numerous chinese quad vendors but the parts are most often generic and interchangable. Look for similar pictures and matching connectors. For example, the ignition switch on your quad (according to the earlier wiring diagram) is a generic standard ignition switch used on zillions of different chinese quads. Just buy one and plug it in. If your wiring harness hasn't been hacked up you'll be good to go most likely.
Be careful with regulators and CDI's. There are some pitfalls here. Check back here before spending money on these items.
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