Help!I have a yamoto 110 with no power to the starter button,i have power to the solenoid and will turn over when both terminals are crossed.Has anyone a wiring diagram or any idea's on the problem.
It was working well until this problem occurred.I checked for voltage at the starter button and cant find any,bit hard to check without a wiring diagram.

 

I don't have a wiring diagram for your quad, but most 110cc quad starter circuitry is wired like this:



Some questions:

1) When you turn on the ignition, and apply the brakes, does your brake light turn on?

2) When you press the starter button (with ignition on and the brakes applied) does the solenoid go click?

3) When you jump the solenoid terminals (with ignition on) does the quad start?

4) How many pins on your CDI? Is it 5 pins or 4 pins?

5) Have you checked your fuse?

Answers to the above questions will help narrow down the problem.

For the solenoid to go click and connect up the starter motor it needs to have 12 volts applied to the two small terminals on the solenoid. In the diagram above note that one of the small terminals is grounded. For 12 volts to get to the other small terminal it has to take the following path:

A) Battery through the fuse
B) Fuse through the Ignition switch (which must be on).
C) Switched ignition power to the brake switch(es). And the brakes must be applied to pass the 12 volts (which will light up the brake light).
D) From the brake light switch output side the 12 volts goes to the starter button input side.
E) From the starter button output side (when the starter button is pushed) the 12 volts goes to the solenoid.

All of the above requirements must be met or the solenoid won't engage. Use a meter and trace the voltages each step of the way and see where it fails.

 

Thanks Lynn.just done a few quick checks,the inline fuse has been removed by a previous owner,I have no power to the rear brake light,the solenoid is not clicking,I have a 4 pin cdi and when a meter is put on it 3 go to ground,I have also put a meter on the coil,both go to ground. I have also put. Meter on the kill switch wires,1 reads 12 v other goes to ground?I think possibly I may have a cooked wire or 2. I think ill run 12v direct to the coil to see if it will run.I have now put an inline 10a fuse minus the kill switch connected.

 

So I take it the quad doesn't start when you turn the ignition switch on, set all kill switches to the run position, and crank the starter by jumping the solenoid?

If I understand you correctly you added back the fuse that the P.O. removed. Good. But I don't understand the "put an inline 10a fuse minus the kill switch connected" part. Every thing except the big fat wire to the starter motor through the solenoid should be fused. Why would the kill switch not be fused?

You have multiple problems here. The quad won't crank, and your brake interlock system isn't working since you don't have power to the brake switch with the ignition on. You do have an ignition switch, right? I'm also pretty sure (but not 100% sure) the quad doesn't start. If so do you have spark when you jump the solenoid (ignition on, and kill switches set to the run position)?

*DO NOT*, repeat *DO NOT*, apply 12 volts directly to your coil. At best you will blow the fuse. At worst you will destroy the coil. Ignition coils do not run on 12 volts. They run on AC high frequency pulses. The inductance of the coil is what limits the current. If you apply DC the current draw will be perhaps as high as 30 amps (but if so only very briefly - and then you need a new coil). And this has nothing at all to do with the starter not cranking...

I would suggest that we divide the problems into two camps: Starter motor doesn't crank with the start button, and Quad has no spark when the solenoid is jumped (assuming that's the case - you didn't answer all my questions ). Let's concentrate on one problem only as part of a divide and conquer approach. Once we get that part working we move on to the next problem.

 

Hi lynn,the kill switch on inspection cooked and now I will have to bypass untill I can get another one.Three wires. Came off it a red 12v live a black and red wire and a black wire.An ignition switch is on the front panel but does not look as it has ever been wired upThe quad has allways started without the brake being on,however the switch works as the brake light comes on.I have not ran 12v to the coil as you stated,I take it the 12v goes to the CDI and pulses from there,I have found a wiring diagram for the CDI but there is no 12v supply where it should be.Should the red and the red and black wires on the kill switch be coonected to bypass kill switch?Look forward to any more ideas

 

It sounds like you quad electrical system has been mangled by the previous owner. For example your fuse was bypassed (both stupid and dangerous), your ignition switch is there but has no wires on it, and your brake/starter safety interlock has been bypassed since it started without having to apply the brakes.

Your kill switch is "cooked" and has three wires. I suspect that is not a kill switch. Kill switches have two wires. You're either running or killed. That takes only two wires. So I'm wondering what this 3 wire switch is...

WHat color is the wire that hooks up to the "Switched 12 Volt DC" CDI power pin in the following picture?:



Yes the DC powered CDI as pictured above takes 12 volts and makes internally a moderately high voltage supply (a couple hundred volts) to run the CDI. This supply is used to charge a storage capacitor inside (The 'C' in the acronym "CDI" which stands for Capacitive Discharge Ignition). It also needs a timing trigger pulse from the stator to specify the exact moment when the CDI should fire. The CDI, when fired, uses the charge on the storage capacitor to make the high frequency and moderately high voltage drive to the ignition coil primary. The coil steps the moderately high voltage up to really high voltage (tens of thousands of volts) to fire the spark plug.

 

Hi lynn,I have now had the quad running,I fitted another cdi and joined the red and red and black wires off the kill switch wiring,the quad started by jumping the solenoid.The quad is still dead at the handlebar switch button and no brake light.Should there be a 12v supply to the handlebar switch block connector,there is five wires on this,a blue and white,a brown,a black,a green and a yellow and red.answering your cdi question the 12v supply to the cdi is black and red which is a constant 12v without ignition switch.

 

I'm glad you got your quad running... But...

Your wiring has really been messed with. You have 12 volts at the CDI power pin all the time? Even when the quad is off? This is wrong. That means your CDI is running all the time - even when your quad is parked in your garage. Your battery will drain under the constant draw over a few days.

Is this what you are experiencing?

Do you see major signs of wiring modifications? Or does the wiring harness look more or less intact as it came from the factory? Things such as unwired ignition switches and three wire kill switches have me wondering if we're dealing with hacked wiring, or perhaps misinterpretted wiring.

Do you have pictures of these connectors and wiring?

 

Hi lynn,your right about battery draining,magneto is putting out about 14v so that's fine,the wiring does not look hacked,factory if anything.I will get some pics done some as I am repling on blackberry

 

hi lynn,i now have the quad running off the the starter by rewiring the 12v supply to the handle bar,this is on temp sollution until i can sort out the wiring as i have no lights and the electric choke is flooding as i have put a 12v supply to that as that is what i believe makes it work?i will send pics as soon as i can work out how, as this web site is new to me!