Tao Tao 150 having electric start issue
#1
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My 12 year old son just bought this used, Tao Tao ata150-b.
It has been running perfect for a few weeks, till he started it, then it stalled and then he went to start it again and it does nothing. Its like the kill switch is on, or the key is off. It just does nothing.
I have searched and can't find these exact symptoms in any forums so thats why im asking.
The head lights work, I checked and can only find one fuse and its good. I took the starter/headlight switches apart, but everything looks good in there.
I put a meter directly on the electric starter to see if it was getting any power to it when you hit the start button but the meter did not jump.
I tapped a car charger on the electric starter terminal and it started to turn, so the starter seems to be okay.
I followed all the wires to see if any connections had unplugged, but everything looks good to me.
Is it possible that the CDI is shot? I have ordered a new one, but its going to be a few weeks till it get here, could always use one on hand anyways if its not the problem.
Is there anything Im missing? has anyone else had a simular problem.
thanks
It has been running perfect for a few weeks, till he started it, then it stalled and then he went to start it again and it does nothing. Its like the kill switch is on, or the key is off. It just does nothing.
I have searched and can't find these exact symptoms in any forums so thats why im asking.
The head lights work, I checked and can only find one fuse and its good. I took the starter/headlight switches apart, but everything looks good in there.
I put a meter directly on the electric starter to see if it was getting any power to it when you hit the start button but the meter did not jump.
I tapped a car charger on the electric starter terminal and it started to turn, so the starter seems to be okay.
I followed all the wires to see if any connections had unplugged, but everything looks good to me.
Is it possible that the CDI is shot? I have ordered a new one, but its going to be a few weeks till it get here, could always use one on hand anyways if its not the problem.
Is there anything Im missing? has anyone else had a simular problem.
thanks
#2
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what's the current battery voltage? does it have an inline fuse on the positive wire of the battery? look closely at the solenoid, some are made with an inline blade fuse right there (an all in one set up)
now, after you've checked the above stuff, do the following while you have your multimeter/ohm meter handy. it helps to keep the meter around to as to gauge the voltage drop on the battery when cranking and the juice going to/from the solenoid posts. it may be a bad solenoid/fuse, but let's check some more.
so, with the key "on", you have headlights but she won't crank.
with the left handlebar engaged, key "on", hit starter button, no crank?
with the left handlebar engaged, key "on", use a screwdriver to jump the terminals of the solenoid. does it crank?
report back with details.
now, after you've checked the above stuff, do the following while you have your multimeter/ohm meter handy. it helps to keep the meter around to as to gauge the voltage drop on the battery when cranking and the juice going to/from the solenoid posts. it may be a bad solenoid/fuse, but let's check some more.
so, with the key "on", you have headlights but she won't crank.
with the left handlebar engaged, key "on", hit starter button, no crank?
with the left handlebar engaged, key "on", use a screwdriver to jump the terminals of the solenoid. does it crank?
report back with details.
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#3
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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I second everything Jaster94 said above. Do all those tests. But I would like to add one more into the mix:
Turn on the ignition, and apply the brakes (do both - front and rear). Look at the brake light. Is it lit up? If it is, then try pushing the start button. Does the starter turn now?
Your starter won't turn unless you satisfy from the brake safety interlock - which keeps you from turning the starter motor unless the brakes are applied (which means your brake light is lit up).
Turn on the ignition, and apply the brakes (do both - front and rear). Look at the brake light. Is it lit up? If it is, then try pushing the start button. Does the starter turn now?
Your starter won't turn unless you satisfy from the brake safety interlock - which keeps you from turning the starter motor unless the brakes are applied (which means your brake light is lit up).
#4
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thanks
I tested the brakes already, had the meter on where the connection to the brake light. got 2 different readings, can't remember the numbers exactly but, when I turn the key, I got a low reading, running light, and a higher reading when I hit either brake. so I think I'm good on the brakes working.
I tested the brakes already, had the meter on where the connection to the brake light. got 2 different readings, can't remember the numbers exactly but, when I turn the key, I got a low reading, running light, and a higher reading when I hit either brake. so I think I'm good on the brakes working.
#7
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When you get up to the cottage write everything down. Wire colors, what scale you used, where you put the black lead on the meter, exact voltages on the meter, etc.
Definately try jaster94's tests - especially jumping the solenoid.
Also measure the DC voltage on both the *small* solenoid wires with the
1) Ignition on, brakes set, and the starter button *not* pushed. What are these two voltages, and what are the wires colors for each voltage?
2) Same setup, but with the starter button *pushed*. What do you measure for both wires?
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