i just bought this quad for my son. There are not any stickers or identifiers on it. i would like to find a wiring diagram for is as the ignition an kill switch wont shut it off. The owner before me did a number on the wiring.

i would like to know the size of the engine and quad name if possible??? and maybe a link to a wiring diagram?

Here is a pic of what it looks just like minus the left hand brake this bike just has one on the right side

 

Looks Like A Roketa 21A-Mini, Engine Size Maybe a 70cc-90cc, or 110cc 4 Stroke Honda Engine. Automatic Transmission. Maybe engine is a 94YS ??. Try this website. MxMotorsports inc. for parts information.

Good Luck.

 

Wiring diagrams are mostly non-existant except for a lucky few quads. Even then the diagrams are often wrong.

How many pins/wires on your CDI? 5 or 4? What are the colors?

How many wires on your ignition switch? What are the colors? Please tell me only the colors on the wiring harness side of the connector going the the ignition switch.

How many wires are coming out of your stator? WHat are the colors? Again only report the wire colors in the wiring harness side of the connector interface.

 

thanks for your reply ill answer your question all wiring descriptions are from the wiring harness side as asked

How many pins/wires on your CDI? 5 or 4? What are the colors?
5 pins
blue with white stripe
black with yellow stripe
solid green
solid blue
black red stripe
The cdi its self has a green connector

How many wires on your ignition switch? What are the colors?

4 wires
solid black
solid red looks more pink
solid black
solid green

How many wires are coming out of your stator? WHat are the colors?

5 wires
blue with white stripe
solid green
solid yellow
black with red stripe
solid white

 

ok guys i found a manufactures plate the bike is a 2006 SUNL
engine family 6SUNC,100ACA
model SLA-109

i have gotten this bike running well the carb that was on it was totally screwed so its been soaking for 5 days i had another carb laying on the shelf i threw on and it runs my 254lb butt up the street pretty quick thin is i cant turn it off with the kill switch or ignition. The igintion switch works as far as i can tell as far as turn ignition on an the lights work ignition off they dont work i have checked the kill switch and all is well im down to wiring harness now looks like some one has clipped a few wires and i need to know what wire are what any one that can throw me a bone would be great

 

My comments in blue:

Is this your CDI:



Look at the wirethat hooks to the kill switch pin. Is it the blue wire you referred to above? If so this is the wire that needs to get grounded when you want to kill the engine. You leave it open (not grounded) to allow the engine to keep on running.

Caution: This wire has high voltage on it whenever the engine is running. Do not try to grab it with your fingers and ground it manually. Use insulated pliers if you must do this. This line is current limited (its meant to be grounded even though it has high voltage on it), but the limit current is way higher than is required to knock you on your butt.

This wire should go up to the ignition switch. Are you sure that one of those two "black" wires on the ignition switch isn't blue?

The ignition switch is two separate switches ganged together on a common shaft. When the switch is turned on the fused 12 volt power is connected to all the 12 vltpowered stuff (red wire to black wire typically).

When you turn off the ignition switch, the second switch closes (as the other side opens), which shorts the kill switch wire (high voltage and all) to ground, killing spark. Thi is what shuts off the engine. Without this connection then engine will run on and on.

Use your ohmmeter to meaure your ignition switch. Does it short two wires (red and black) when the ignition is on? Does it short the other two wires (green and ???) when the ignition is off?

There is another kill switch on the left handlebar. This is wired in parallel with the ignition switch so it can short the kill switch to ground too.

There can be other kill switches too (tether pull cord and remote module), but if you have them, and they have failed, your problem would be no spark, not unstoppable spark.

 

lynnedwards thanks for getting back to me i have a few pics ill post but let me say i have got it figured out thanks to your help. At some point this quad had remote start i traced the blue wire off the cdi an it ended at a connector not connected to anything all i can figure is that was the connector for the remote start an alarm.
i got out my multi meter and set it to ohms then i put one lead to ground and probed the black wire with the white stripe while turning the ignition on and off.
Ignition off i got infinite ohms. Ignition on i got open line no continuity. So then i left the ignition on and hit the kill switch at the handle bar. In the run position i got open line no continuity. In the off position i got infinite ohms.

So what i did was took a piece off wire an jumped the black wire with white stripe to the solid blue wire that goes to the cdi and now the bike shuts off with the ignition, handle bar kill switch, and the teather in the back. Before nothing except choking the carb would shut this off

Oh and you were right bout the ignition wires upon further investigation the were cut again and heat shrinked to different color wires. Im assuming the ignition is a replacement and the colors are different

here is a pic of my cdi wires
[IMG][/IMG]

here is a pic of the connector connected to nothing (note the black wire whith white stripe and the solid blue wire)
[IMG][/IMG]

and lastly my jump wire
[IMG][/IMG]

So i would like to say thanks this forum has a abundance of information i been reading for three days learning as much as i can

 

not infinate ohms sorry i had a reading cant recall the numbers the other statment about open line or open loop is the same

 

I'm glad you figured it out .

Yes, from your pics that looks like a remote connector. Usually though, the remote is wired such that ignition switch won't work to kill the engine, but the handlebat kill switch will work. Yours is apparently wired such that neither will will the engine. I have not seen that before...

To clear the measurements up:

"Open line", "Open Loop", "no continuity", and "infinite ohms" are all synonyms meaning the same thing (what your ohmmeter says when the test leads are no connected to anything). Often the meter says "OL" in the display for this condition.

"Shorted", "connected", "shorted", "closed", and "zero ohms" all mean the same thing too. This condition is the same as what your ohmmeter displays when the test leads are shorted together. The display in this case would read all zeros, unless you're on a really low ohms scale in which case you would be reading the resistance of the wiring (which is close to, but not zero ohms). Wiring resistances are usually much less than 1 ohm.

Yep, that is exactly what you needed to do .