at key switch i have
grey/white
red
black
and green............i got this atv with no key, so i pulled the wires at key switch and wired the black and red together.(i checked continuity at key switch and red to black were supposed to be connected with the key on ,so i just left the grey/white....and the green disconnected.

 

IT never smoked a lick, although i could be losing compression around a valve(not likely though)it just sounds too strong to be low on compression(i mean it will actuaslly sit there and run good I will try to upload a video of it running tomorrow. I might do it tonight if my wife would let me go to shop and get my jumper pack........I think my cost on ngk plugs is about 2.00 bucks.

 

"I got the fuse removed and wired direct" "got this atv with no key, so i pulled the wires at key switch and wired..."

Ok now I see. Not knowing the above sent me on a different road. I can trace electrical glitches if I have too but it takes forever and I'm definitely not the person to tell others what to check where (just know the solenoid circut cause I had to make one myself). Maybe Lynn will be by soon (I usually see his posts between midnight and 2) and he can point you in the right direction.

Btw you might wanna put a fuse back before you let the smoke out of something important. (assuming you already haven't)

 

Like mudmike I can't think of any reason why repeatedly pressing the start button would have anything to do with keeping the quad running unless the engine is trying to die and your repeated starter button presses are just restarting the engine.

And your statement the the quad "will remain running, and run good" has me a bit confused... Does the quad eventually run good, or does it continue to die? Is this a cold starting problem, or a problem that persists even when the engine has warmed a bit?

If the start buttton really is involved in keeping your quad running, then do your startup procedure, then have someone unplug the starter solenoid connector going to the two small actuating wires while you're going through the start button pushing routine. If the start button is completing some sort of circuit through some bizarre wiring error then it will continue to allow the quad to keep going. On the other hand, if the starter motor is simply restarting a quad that wants to die then the start button will not keep the quad running.

Is your quad CDI a five pin CDI, or a four pin?

This sounds normal to me unless you're really careful when making this measurement. When hooked up, the solenoid actuating coil is grounded on one side, while the other side goes to your start button. The resistance of this winding is really low - about 3 to 4 ohms. So if your aren't on a really low ohms scale on your meter you will just see zero ohms and be fooling yourself. Use 20 or 200 ohms full scale maximum. If you scale has a "K" (kiloOhms) or a "M" (megaohms) your meter will not see a difference between a short and 4 ohms.

A 4 ohms load will draw about 3 amps. A short will draw 100 amps or more depending on the output capacity of the battery. You really need to put in a fuse feeding everything except the starter motor wires. Seven amps is the right value for a 110cc quad. If you have a failure that shorts out the battery, 100 amps (or more) will flow, which can vaporize wiring, and quickly start a fire.

 

i do agree no rational explanation. Which means im missing something somewhere.
But i do want to post an online video,to show how misleading something can be.It will be a good tool to show how one should never leave the well worn road of text book trouble shooting . (except sometimes).

Did you see where i wired the key switch black to red,"Is this coorect"?

By the way my cdi is 5 pin and i tested everything with an ohms meter, as you suggested in other of your posts i have read. I wrote the measurements down, i will post them in a few minutes.

 

ac ignition power pin to the ground pin (357 ohms)
timing/trigger pin-ground pin (120 ohms )

now ac measurements...
ignition power pin to ground pin ...while cranking...50 vac
timing trigger to ground pin...(.3 vac)

output side of cdi
resistance of ignition coil pin to the ground pin (the meter could not or did not register anything)

cdi plugged back in ,meter on ac volts, all kill switches to run, and engine cranking, i got about 45 vac (i think it was kind of a steady reading, rather than a lot of spiking?)on the ign. coil pin to ground

 

OK guys i went outside to take compression test ,and get video , but i did not have the right size adapter for my tester.....holding it as i tight as i could using the adapter i had(just had to hold it against spark plug hole)i got 85 psi , i hope i get a better reading once i get the proper adapter, and if so it could be a valve or valve seat or adjustment?
Anyways, i had the plug out and thought, well, i will check the fire ,because i could not even get it to crank this morning.What i got was an intermittent spark,sometimes it would fire continuously while cranking and then quit firing while still cranking,then other times it would not fire at all while cranking and then, right after i release the push button it would shoot a blue spark, about 3 or 4 times.
Any idea what would cause this?Also this thing saya Supermach on the side what type of engine or atv is it?

 

Almost certainly yes, since those are standard generic colors. Red is *fused* 12 volts from the battery, and black is the ignition switched 12 volts to everything that runs off 12 volts.

 

My comments in blue...

 

This is really sounding like an intermittent electrical connection. Perhaps it is just the engine vibration that is shaking the quad ignition wiring connections between running and not running conditions.