If you are talking about bypassing kill switches you've got the procedure backwards. To bypass a kill switch you unplug it from the wiring harness. *That's it*. If you connect the two wires in the harness together then you put the quad into the "spark is killed" mode.

This is wrong. Black/White is the wire color for your kill switch connections. Green is ground. Connect those togther and you will not have spark. The fact that this allows you to crank the quad suggests that you wiring is messed up. You've probably got a couple pins reversed in your wiring harness. Never mind that. Disconnect those two wires until we have spark, then we'll come back to that. In the mean time we can test for spark by jumping across the solenoid screw posts with a screwdriver.

 

ok the safety switch is
the strap swith that u hook to the child in case he falls off
the brake lever that u have to hold to start it, i just unplugged them both then snapped the plugs together, so thats whats killing my fire?so the default position is normally open for spark?

 

kill switch pin is unplugged from cdi connector,
ok the safety switch is
the strap swith that u hook to the child in case he falls off, and
the brake lever that u have to hold to start it, i just unplugged them both then snapped the plugs together,

 

black/white kill wire on cdi is unhooked from connector,

 

kill switch wire is disconnected from cdi harness brake switch is unplugged and connected together, safety tether is disconnected and tied togther

 

kill switch wire resistance is when wire is unplugged from the cdi connector, is .04 ohms, but that wire isnt connected to cdi

 

ok i got one of them to fire but now it wont crank over with the button

 

The tether switch is a kill switch, and should be left open to enable spark.

Let's separate the starter safety interlock switch(es) from the kill switches so there is no confusion:

Kill switches kill spark. You can have up to four of them, and they are:

1) One half of the two pole ignition switch
2) The left handlebar kill switch
3) The pull cord tether kill switch
4) The kill wire from the remote module

Not all quads have all four of these. You may not have a remote module fro example. These switches are wired in parallel. All have to be open (wires disconnected) to get spark. If any one (or more) have the wires shorted then spark is killed.

Note that kill switches do not prevent the starter motor from cranking. The starter can turn and turn, but the quad will never start if any kill switch wires are shorted together because there will be no spark.

Starter Safety Interlock wiring is completely separate. This consists of some method to keep the starter motor from turning unless the quad is guaranteed to sit still. It is similar to the starter motor safety interlock on your car that won't allow the starter motor to turn when the car is in drive. For most chinese quads the interlock uses the brake switch(es) - front and/or rear. The starter activation wiring requires that the brakes be applied, and uses the voltage on the far side of the brake switch to engage the starter solenoid in addition to the starter button. There are some quads that use other methods as well such as clutch switches, and/or neutral switches. But all quads have some starter interlock wiring of some sort.

Note that this interlock wiring has nothing to do with killing spark. If the starter interlock wiring is not correct, and you manually jump the solenoid you will get spark if the ignition system is working and the kill switches are all set to the run position.

To bypass the starter interlock you shorted the brake switch wires. That is correct.

 

This is wrong, but probably because you have the tether kill switch jumpered across.

 

What did you do to get the quad to start firing?

On your starter motor cranking issue, here is how most 110cc quads are wired:



To figure out if this is how your quad is wired I need the wire colors that connect to the brake switch, starter solenoid input wires (the small ones), and the left handlebar switch assembly. So please list out the all the wires colors that connect to each of these three items. But (and this is really important), give me only the colors of the wires in the wiring harness - not the colors of any short pigtail wires going into (say for example) the left handlebar switch assembly. Follow the short pigtail wires until they come to the main wiring harness connector and then report the wires colors on the harness side of the connector set. This allows me to draw out your wiring diagram for the starting circuit since it is a fair bet that a yellow wire entering the harness will still be yellow when it comes back out.