When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
New to the forum, but not to forums in general. In short I have a no spark situation on an Aeon LG 90 wheeler that I am trying to troubleshoot. This is a 2 stroke unit, no reverse.
Now for the drawn out story. I purchased this unit not running, for cheap on FB Marketplace. The PO said it stopped running one day, and believed it siezed. He put a new piston, jug, and head on. He also stated that nothing looked bad internally on the rebuild and it wasn't siezed. Then it sat for 2 years, kids lost interest, and he wanted it gone. I've been putting the puzzle pieces together over the last few days. Currently doesn't have a battery, so I am trying to manually Kickstart.
Additional details: New fresh fuel plug looks good and gapped to .028, plug is getting wet with fuel after extended cranking. It did pop off the 2nd or 3rd kick and died, i couldnt ever get noise out of it again. Visual on the plug i see no spark at all when kickstarting against the block. I cleaned the pickup surfaces down on the crank flywheel with no change, all looks good and clean. The PO gave me what I think is a china brand voltage regulator, and a coil that has more wires coming out of it than the current one.
Any help on proper method of diagnosis is greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
Get the electric start working. Far easier to check for a spark while pressing a button. Not sure about Aeons but many "Minarelli" engines have DC CDI so need the battery to provide the spark anyway. If you are not getting a spark then, do the "help diagnose stator" tests in the sticky at the top of this section. Actual values for resistance and voltage vary, but no resistance, or open circuit, where there should be some, indicates a fault.
Get the electric start working. Far easier to check for a spark while pressing a button. Not sure about Aeons but many "Minarelli" engines have DC CDI so need the battery to provide the spark anyway. If you are not getting a spark then, do the "help diagnose stator" tests in the sticky at the top of this section. Actual values for resistance and voltage vary, but no resistance, or open circuit, where there should be some, indicates a fault.
Thank you, I will take a gander and report back when I can get more time to tinker with it!
Quick update. We performed the troubleshooting process of the stator, CDI, coil, etc.
Ohm values were close to those identified for stator testing. To be honest I really didnt see an issue to condemn it. But, still no spark working through the troubleshoot.
We hooked the battery back up, and like last time there is a large amp draw upon hookup of the terminals to the ATVs harness. I spent some time chasing the noise I was hearing and actually saw the flywheel move just a smidge. I actually tried to spin it with my hand and felt resistance from what I am assuming may be a dead short in the stator? Maybe I did something wrong with the troubleshoot but there is definitely an issue with the stator, especially with the battery connected.
I had a small Harbor Freight 2lb slide hammer, popped that flywheel off with 1 little slide. There is a copper winding that looks burnt, but otherwise I have seen worse. I will get a pic and report back. The previous owner has definitely been in here and someone 'scabbed in this stator and pickup.
New stator and pickup are ordered, should have by next weekend.
It is the two black coils that matter, the ones with exposed copper wire are only for the charging circuit. If the exciter and trigger coils test out OK, especially if they give a decent voltage when the engine is spun, your ignition problem is elsewhere. Disconnect the voltage reg. If the wiring isn't totally wrong, that will isolate those charging coils and remove the "large amp draw".
It is the two black coils that matter, the ones with exposed copper wire are only for the charging circuit. If the exciter and trigger coils test out OK, especially if they give a decent voltage when the engine is spun, your ignition problem is elsewhere. Disconnect the voltage reg. If the wiring isn't totally wrong, that will isolate those charging coils and remove the "large amp draw".
10-4, understand. I will do this and see what happens when it's hooked back up.
One other thought I had was during the testing of the atv wiring harness I still had no spark. So I believe this means all wires on the atv (including tether, and on-off) button are good as well? I am assuming yes as when I previously used the electric starter it did crank in the on position, but I never tried to crank in the off position.
Not sure if the "help diagnose stator" sticky tells this, but the kill wire to the CDI plug should test as earthed when the ign switch is off, and open circuit when the ign switch is on (odd makes like ETon do it the other way round) this tells you if the kill circuit is OK.
Not sure if the "help diagnose stator" sticky tells this, but the kill wire to the CDI plug should test as earthed when the ign switch is off, and open circuit when the ign switch is on (odd makes like ETon do it the other way round) this tells you if the kill circuit is OK.
I don't recall seeing that in there, but will double check that wire. The new statpr assembly is supposed to arrive tomorrow as well. Even if it isn't the cause at least it's replaced while it's this far torn down.
Jan 1, 2024 | 03:47 PM
Aeon LG 90 Alpha Sports No Spark
