2) Chassis problems.. If your quad runs but you have other problems.. post in here.

Does it usually take a long time to bleed brake?

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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #11  
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Its always the simple things that cause us the most pain..LOL
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 11:25 AM
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Glad to hear you got it sorted...whenever I get my hands on a used machine, the very first thing (after it's running of course) is the brakes...so very important, but also so very overlooked...
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 12:13 PM
  #13  
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Now I need to figure out a way to bring the handle toward the handlebar a good amount, my son has tiny hands, it's impossible for him to reach and pull. Someone said they had luck placing a broom handle inbetween and bending the handle. Not sure how a cheap chinese casting would hold up to that. I thought about grinding at the master plunger "tab", but there isn't really enough meat there once it's ground out. I may have to just cut a new handle with a different profile.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 01:07 PM
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you could pull it off, stick it in a vice, heat it up and form it more into a deeper "j", then see if there is room to slide it further into the middle of the bar so that the newly bent section is closer to the grips...you will likely loose stopping power...


Need to figure out the same for my kid's LT80R...I was actually looking at sled masters/levers...they tend to be short and have 1 finger stopping power...with that power being very early in the stroke...
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtDevil101
you could pull it off, stick it in a vice, heat it up and form it more into a deeper "j", then see if there is room to slide it further into the middle of the bar so that the newly bent section is closer to the grips...you will likely loose stopping power...


Need to figure out the same for my kid's LT80R...I was actually looking at sled masters/levers...they tend to be short and have 1 finger stopping power...with that power being very early in the stroke...
My oxygen mysteriously escaped the tank over last summer, never had a chance to re-fill it, otherwise I might try it. I'm going to try making a lever out of stainless with a different angle of attack on it so that it is positioned closer to the handlebars. I think I might make it a little longer so that the hand can be positioned a little farther out and provide more leverage.
How does the sled master's achieve the extra stopping power? Do they have the master cylinder piston positioned farther away from the pivot point? I don't see a way of doing that on mine, so extending the handle is my only option to make it easier to pull.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 08:54 AM
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They most likely have a larger internal piston to move more fluid volume with less lever travel...and they most likely cost more...
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 09:04 AM
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How old is your rider?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LT80
How old is your rider?
He just turned 8, but he's very tiny for his age. The quad itself is the perfect size for him, just the brake lever is the size of an adult quad.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 02:55 PM
  #19  
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I bet with some heat and patience it'll bend.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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you never GREASE the pistons, clean very good and put brake fluid on them. grease will eat the rubber seals.
 
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