Stripped front diff. nut
#2
Removed my plug yesterday and it had been stripped. Just a few threads left and can only tighten to 8ft/lbs.
Need to figure out what size it is and order a thread repair kit -- helicore? I think was the name. Next option would be to just buy a tap one size larger and make my own threads.
any help?
Need to figure out what size it is and order a thread repair kit -- helicore? I think was the name. Next option would be to just buy a tap one size larger and make my own threads.
any help?
#3
i did the same thing on my bruin a few years ago. i just bought a bolt that was the same size just a little bit longer to reach the unhurt threads. it worked like a charm. any auto parts store should have one
#5
The problem is that Yamaha and most Manufacturers use Aluminum casings with STEEL bolts... Steel and AL don't get along.... I have an 07 Grizz 450 and I took the belt cover off a few weeks ago - just to check it out, well most of the bolts came out fine, they SHOULD have gone back in with just my fingers.. not the case... I wound up putting anti-seize compound on ALL the Bolts.
It frustrates me that manufactures DO NOT USE Heli-coils (Steel thread insert) when making a Aluminum part that will use screws/bolts that are removed more than once..
I am tempted to take out my Diff plugs and put anti-seize on them...
As far as tightening too tight.. well a torque wrench is cheap insurance against doing that again... I have learned from my past mistakes.. so now I ALWAYS use a torque wrench when tightening into Aluminum casings.
It frustrates me that manufactures DO NOT USE Heli-coils (Steel thread insert) when making a Aluminum part that will use screws/bolts that are removed more than once..
I am tempted to take out my Diff plugs and put anti-seize on them...
As far as tightening too tight.. well a torque wrench is cheap insurance against doing that again... I have learned from my past mistakes.. so now I ALWAYS use a torque wrench when tightening into Aluminum casings.
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