I was leaking antifreeze from the bottom right if the motor I found that it was coming from the Little housing that holds the compressor blade that pushs the coolant through the engine...figured it was the o-ring so spent 4 bucks and had one shipped in. Put it on and every things lloking good upon warming up.... As the bike got warm though guess what. DRIP....DRIP....DRIP [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

This is starting to get frustrating... Ok the leak is coming directly below the bottom screw hole. Could I be missing a washer? Didnt see any when I pulled off the housing. Any suggestions would apreciate

trying to go riding this weekend you know how it is.

Endo

 

your water pump is leaking need to repce the two seals and shaft. Water Pump Seal Repair

 

First, this is what I would call the left side of the engine (clutch side).

I think there is a little brass o-ring (washer) that goes in the bottom hole (can't immagine it really does any sealing though. . . but, I could be wrong!)

Send me your e-mail and I'll reply with a parts guide picture of what I am talking about. mjbeaty@hotmail.com

If you were getting coolant in your oil I would agree with Bill (and I would suggest replacing those seals as he is describing when you have a chance.) I don't think that is the issue. Generally the coolant leaks into the oil when that seal goes. I don't think it would be what causes the leak.

If you end up calling your dealer they probably have that little copper (or brass) washer in stock.

 

When the water pump seals are installed correctly. mine weren't from the factory, coolant will drip from the hole when the seal on the coolant side wears out. That is the purpose of the hole. I believe Bill is right on with his advice.

 

Been there Done that!
There are two seals with the drip hole in between. The dripping is to relieve pressure so that if the 1st seal (water pump side) leaks, it won't push by the second engine oil seal. This warns you to change the seals NOW before it leaks into your oil. Make sure and pay attention to which direction the lip seals are facing when you remove them so that you get the new ones back in properly. The shaft most likely is OK, but look it over when the seals are out. I was able to order these from NAPA, the number is stamped on the seal. It's pretty simple to replace them. When reinstalling, after inserting the insde seal all the way in, place a pin of some sort up into the drip hole and then slid the outside seal in to the pin leaving a gap where the drip hole is. It is possible to push the seals tight against each other and if this happens it won't drip if a future leak starts. I would check your oil to make sure it's not looking milky, if so change it, sometimes it takes two oil changes to get it clean looking again so don't panic if it's still a little milky after the 1st change.
Good luck

 

Makes sense to me! Was wondering what that weep hole was for [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

I sell double wall heat exchangers and there is the same kind of thing to let you know when you have a leak. Dang them German's are brainy!

Oh, replace the pump shaft (IMO). everyone I've seen has been worn. Also, do you really want to have to do all this work again because you were too cheap to buy a new shaft ($7 I think???)

 

Also make sure you use a Moly type grease when re-assembling or you will be changing those seals again real soon!

 

Hey guys well sure enough finally found my shop manual... and I was missing the washer. Replaced it and WA LA no leak [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Looks like im riding this weekend on another note... When it comes to my jetting im running a 180 jet with a WB E series, K&N. Should I take off the spark arrestor plate ? would this give me any more HP/TQ or would it just be louder?

Thanks