Ok part 2 of my Polaris weekend. I got in a 2000 250 trail blazer that pull rope was broke and electric start did not work. So I put the starter in and got it cranking. Now it would not start. They claimed that it would start on the second pull every time. 40psi compression. Yea so it got a new top end now it is about 125 or so. I had the carb off so I cleaned it adjusted the float because the crankcase had some fuel in it. It has great spark and you can hear it wanting to hit but just not quite enough. So I checked the flywheel it was good and adjusted the choke. After that I can get it to start but I have to crank on it 10 min on and off letting the starter rest. Once it starts it runs great and has no issues starting. I have heard that crank seals are next thing to look at there is no sign of them leaking but I know you can not judge by that. What is the best way to check them? Is there anything else to look at? Oh yea I did replace the spark plug too.

Thanks in Advance.

 

Easier to just go ahead and replace them. To do a leak down test you really have to be able to spray soapy water on them to see if they are leaking. To to that you have to pull the drive clutch and stator,so just go ahead and replace them since you're already there. And yes leaking seals can cause hard cranking,but can become a little more pliable and warm as it runs and as the engine heats up and can actually start to seal until you let the engine get cold again.Then back to the same hard starting process.

 

So I am looking at crank seals for this would this kit have what I need in it? It is a winderosa 822140. It just seems to cheap to be what I need I see most places for the factory seals are like 10 for one and 20 for the other with shipping.

Thanks

 

Aftermarket seals are cheaper than oem parts. Shows to be complete for engine and gear case. Or you can get the two seals specific for the engine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Winderosa-Engine-Oil-Seal-Kit-822140/231595720097?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D8f94ab345b244db6aefae401343cc2e8%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D301698767215

 

That kit did have the right seals and it fixed the issue starts after 2 cranks every time now. Thanks

 

A lot of people still over look crank seals or don't think something like this can keep an engine from running.. Glad they solved the problem. Hope you can figure out the 500 now..

 

So I thought this fixed it. Went to start this thing and it started but took for ever. I pulled the carb off and looked it over again and can see nothing wrong with it. I just happened to have a buddy with a 300 express that was putting a new float in his carb so i put his carb on and it started with no issues. So I put the carb from the 250 on his and same thing started no issues. Swapped the carbs back and same thing I have to crank on it for 5 sec to 10 sec and you can here it firing but just not enough to start it. Now the 300 is like new and the 250 is wore out but the 250 does have new top end and crank seals. Am I over looking something. They both have 40 pilot jets but a 130 main in the 250 and a 155 main in the 300. I did not thing that made a difference in starting. Now I did notice that it has a lag on take off so do I need to raise the needle a notch it is in the center now or go up a size in the jet? It was board 40 over.

 

Jetting is correct for the 250 with a 40 pilot,130 main jet. You can try playing with the needle position,don't know if that will help on starting,plus did you install a new needle and seat,float arm level with the carb bowl? On your first post when you said new top end,have a new bore and piston or just rings? 125 is kinda low for a new top end even for the 250..

 

I just cleaned the carb and on the cylinder I took it to a local shop they honed it and checked it for roundness and it was good they said so I just put a piston kit in it. I just rechecked the compression it is 140 wide open throttle. It just seems funny that with the other carb it fires right up and not so much with this one.

 

Then I'd throw a cheap carb kit in it that includes the needle and seat.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Trail-Blazer-250-1996-2000-CARBURETOR-Carb-Rebuild-Kit-Repair-P250-/181838121090?hash=item2a56658882&vxp=mtr Plus llok over these two videos. May help if you missed something..