i currently have a KN filter with the WB e series pipe (still working on jetting but power feels pretty good)
and i have a big gun cdi on the way....

im wondering....what is stock hp (rear wheels?) for the ds?

and what approx (of course variables such as jetting altitude etc etc will come into play) should the KN filter (has an outerwear if that matters...) add to the hp? and what should the Eseries add?

i was reading my new ATV action mag and saw HMF's article for pipes....and it says the DS slip on adds 8hp and its only 210 bucks....

im looking for the best power output with minimal investments.... (i used to have MBRP which i bought used for 225...kept the headers and sold the pipe for 175) then bought this WB pipe slightly used for 210.... but im wondering if it would be worth my while to check into the HMF? if its only like a single HP or two i dont really care....but i see adds for KN/jets/FULL pipes for the YFZ and they advertise ADDS 10 whopping HP!) so im thinking.... hmm.... if hmf is 8 with JUST slip on...what is WB putting out?

i also have to ride in state dunes...so sparky's and DB do matter... (they do sell sparkys and quiet cores for the HMF for an added like 50 for both...)

just wondering if my setup is a Low HP adder...or decent compared to the HMF....

also..... just out of curiosity what do the 760 kits bump the HP level to? (im guessing the kits are over 2k or so so its way out of range...but i was just eager to know...)

thanks guys

 

The HMF is VERY loud and doesn't have a spark arrestor..... Keep the MBRP headpipes and WB E-series and be happy because you're not gonna see any significant gain no matter what pipe you buy. Trust me I spent WAY too much money on exhaust's only to find most are either the same on power or worse, and no better. My White Brothers E-series was an awesome pipe along with the FMF I had but I believe I had more of a power gain with the WB. Keep the pipe and save your cash for other go fast goodies.....

 

Save your money. Get the billit end cap.. There is not a slip on pipe that produces more power.

 

well I guess you could do that too but that's another $50 and you don't have a spark arrestor. Plus you'll get a fine for sure for it being too loud where as your WB should be fine. I would save and get other, different go fast goodies but do what you want it's just my opinion.....

 

ya while i was typing that i was realizing that, that would be another 200+ better spent elsewhere.....

but i would still like to know the stock HP figure...and the APPROX hp gain of the pipe/filter....

 

From what I've read, most stockers run around 39 rwhp.

 

I agree stick with the e-seriers. if you havent seen here is the HMF dynos HMF dyno theRWHP does very from dyno to dyno. Ive herd stock makes 39 to 42. most pipes make there most hp#s in the low to mid. the stock end cap chokes it off in low RPMs but holds its own in hi rpms. Ive never seen any dynos on e-series, I hope some one will soon. im a ferm beliver in the disk set up, I love mine, I need to do a dyno on these supertrapp disks I got Im realy curious on how they perform against fully open. Ill post the report when I do. maybe this spring.
Sam

 

I have an E-Series and I like it - I'd suggest keeping it. You'll also be hard pressed to find another slip on that will still look that good after 2-3 years. (My E-Series looks the same as the day I bought it!) I've -never- seen a dyno sheet for the E-Series and unless you or I plan to dyno one, I don't expect to either. I badgered White Brothers for a couple months for a dyno sheet before I bought my pipe & I got told several times they would fax it right over, some said the didn't have one so who knows what the -real- answer is.

Also remeber when a company that produces a pipe & says it gains "10 HP" they are saying it gains 10 hp over stock, somewhere on the power curve. Imagine the stock pipe has a nasty drop in mid - low RPM (the stock DS pipe does) if an aftermarket pipe made 10 more hp on the dyno the used (also another variable) in that one part of the RPM band then they would advertise 8 - 10 extra HP. (10 HP is not easy to achieve with a mere pipe change and nothing else - thats at least 25% - what would you have to do to a car to do that? Take a 200HP car to 250HP? It wont be an exhaust to do it...) Just remember the pipe will help and without a dyno sheet none of us know REALLY what it is doing so those of us with the E-Series are REALLY in the dark! However it does seem to work rather well and keeps it's looks VERY well over many, many other slip ons that chip, rust, or get discoloration of some sort.

I also recently added an extra six discs (18 Total) to my E-Series - I'm not sure how much change that made in power but it certainly is more noisy now! I'm not sure if I'll take the extra discs off or not - however when I do I want to make sure that I do it when I can quickly compare the results to see if I made power or lost power by removing the discs.

You might consider getting your intake ported, I had both of mine done recently and I'm very happy with the results. It's not a night and day difference, however with the intake porting and some caruretion changes made by recomendation of Mr. HP who ported my intake I've got a more powerful, smooth and seriously responsive powerband. When you hit the gas you feel it pick up RPMs quick, and it just goes without problems.

The 760 kits are running right around $5000 - $6000 and give you something like 65 - 75 HP. There are some 720 kits on the market now that also give amazing power increase for more like $1000 - 2000 though on these bigger kits you really need to run race gas which is around $5/gallon.

When you do get the Big Gun CDI please remember to post letting us all know how it feels after some good riding. I'm especially curious since we have similar ATVs.

 

peak horsepower on a box stock bike will vary from bike to bike, but it should make 42 - 44 corrected STD hp on a calibrated dyno 5th gear roll on with flat track tires.

K/N filter gains about 1/2 hp on bottom end, looses about 1 hp from 5000rpm and up over stock filter. No-Toil filter gains about 1 hp on bottom end, runs with stock filter on top end.

I haven't dyno'ed an e-series, but I did dyno the new Race R4 series which should be more power than an e-series. It was made 5-6hp more than stock the stock exhaust up to 5000 RPM and peaked at +9hp at 4000 rpm. From 6000rpm and up, it lost 1 to 3 hp compared to stock.
The R4 is down on hp compared to the billet endcap up to 4000rpm, then makes 1-3hp more from 4000rpm to 5000rpm (sweet spot). Then loses 2 to 6hp from 5500rpm to 7500rpm.

The HMF advertised curve looks good for bottom end punch without giving up top end. In fact, it mirrors the billet endcap curve. If true, that's the best slip on results I've seen.

Someone needs to dyno the e-series compared to stock, same dyno, same day.

222

 

thats interesting about the KN filter..... i figured more air flow = more power all over the power band.....

maybe i shoudl consider a different filter? (i still have the stocker.... ) i also HATE cleaning the KN filter.... (its always nasty lol...) but then again it is pretty similar to stock (i think the foam on the stock traps most of the general debris in the air)

ya i got another 6 discs for my WB but dont have them isnstalled....i was under the general impression that adding discs from 12 to 18 adds noise, and top end only.... (so i figured id save them for the dunes....)