Nerf bars w/ skid plates? Also A-Arm skids
#1
2000 DS 650
Thinking about getting ProArmor Frame & Swingarm skidplates. What nerfbars will work w/ these w/o major modification? Rocky Mountain has ProArmor nerfs listed, but ProArmor doesn't make them for DS 650 yet (if ever).
Also, ProArmor's A-Arms skids won't fit on 2000. Next best choice?
Thinking about getting ProArmor Frame & Swingarm skidplates. What nerfbars will work w/ these w/o major modification? Rocky Mountain has ProArmor nerfs listed, but ProArmor doesn't make them for DS 650 yet (if ever).
Also, ProArmor's A-Arms skids won't fit on 2000. Next best choice?
#2
if your good with a grinder you can make the chassis skid fit, thats wat i did, only took about a half our, just notched where my nerf bar mount is, also the a-arm skids will fix, you just hafta bend one piece, a 30 sec job wit a rubber mallet
#7
well its not a 100% direct bolt up, so thats probably why they are telling you that, just protecting themselves, if your willing to do a lil bit of work they'll fit great
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#8
Thats weird mine fit great with no problems.
I am not sure what they are talking about.
I worked with Ray I believe.
I have the stock lowers and ASR uppers.
They bolted on with no mods at all.
I am not sure what they are talking about.
I worked with Ray I believe.
I have the stock lowers and ASR uppers.
They bolted on with no mods at all.
#9
Got ProArmor swingarm & frame skids in yesterday & installed last night. There IS a trick to the rear swingarm install. The rear bolts can be reached through the brakedisk & chaingear disk. Buy a set of "multi-angle" Allen wrenches. They have a little ball-shaped head on one end designed to allow you to insert into bolt & turn FROM AN ANGLE w/o slipping or rounding out the head. Went right on w/o any major problems. The rear of skid does stick down about an inch from stock, but the protection is worth it.
Frame skid--B4 you start, take stock plastic frame skid off & then you won't have to drill holes in it. ALSO, get an 1" oversize washer for front bolt, as holes in front crossmember (between A-Arm mounts) are larger than included washers. (goes ontop of crossmeber)
BTW, there were instructions included in package from Rocky Mountain. Cheaper than direct also.
Frame skid--B4 you start, take stock plastic frame skid off & then you won't have to drill holes in it. ALSO, get an 1" oversize washer for front bolt, as holes in front crossmember (between A-Arm mounts) are larger than included washers. (goes ontop of crossmeber)
BTW, there were instructions included in package from Rocky Mountain. Cheaper than direct also.
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