I used a dye grinder and a dremmel tool to port my intake. Basically I just took off the 1/4" lip all around the intake lip where the snorkel boot from the air box attaches to the intake. I tried to keep some ridge at the top and bottom, but just a little inside, and really took down the intake front lip so it was a smooth transition from boot to intake lip. No more 1/4" flat ledge all the way around restricting air flow.
I didn’t try to make it pretty just function able. I didn't do much to the insides, and left the center vain alone as much as possible, and just took down the hump (for the top screw) a little bit. A wire brush attachment would have made it all pretty but the ruff finish helps the venturi effect (swirl motion). Polished intake was said to hamper more than it helps. Ruff is better.

The results were very noticeable! Seemed to widen the power band, low to mid power really increased, top end seemed unchanged. RPM's rocket up fast to the rev limiter now.
I will have to change the way I did wheelies because now if I sit back and pin it to bring the front up as I did before all it does is spin the tires. I'll have to find a sweet spot on the throttle, or feather my clutch.

Disadvantage: Trail riding fast = major dust screen behind you from all the lower rpm power making the tires spin effortlessly. But "I like it, I like it a lot!" [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Pictures in my gallery of the near end result.

 

Glad you got a good gain

Im having one done by mr hp so i should have it next month some time

Did you have to re jet ?

 

I did mine my self too not to hard . Just a hint,if you wanted to that bubble on top can come out to you just need to becarefull, I redrilled my holes out to to get the alingment to the engine dead nut . otherwise looks good.
sam

 

blue250r,
I did not rejet im still at 175 main jet. I may be a little lean with the end cap on, but im switching to and HMF slip on exhaust this week and I believe ill have a little less flow and it will richen it up.

Sam,
I did end up taking down the bubble on top, with the dremmel tool. The pictures posted are really at the 1/2 way point, I didn’t take any when I was finished, of the final product, and I should of. I didn't drill the holes any larger, for better alignment, and it was off maybe a 1/32" on one side. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

is this the bubble on the inside u speak of? and why do you have ro drill out the holes?

 

Chosen,
the bubble is in the inside. its from the top Middle bolt, the way the casting is, it bulges on the inside. the re drilling is just to re-aling the manifold to the head. mine was not lined up perfictly when I took it off so boring the holes out larger lets me move the manifold around till its lined up perfictly. if you havent ported yours, when you do take a light and shine it down in to the intake and you should be able to see what iI mean also you can stick you finger down it to to feel if its aligned.

BajaX glad to here you took a few exta min. to take that out. I think that bubble can cause some turbulace in the air flow [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Sam

 

I have a question.

The other day I had a closer look at the intake and how to get better flow. BajaXRider04, I see you grinded the intake lip/shoulder so that it does not have a sharp angle. This seems logical to grind that lip if you look at the intake on its own. When I had a look at the rubber between the carb and the intake, it also has a shoulder and it matches the high of the intake shoulder and the carb diameter. This shoulder lines up near perfect to the carb and the intake. Grinding it down should in theory achieve nothing, since the rubber shoulder and the stock carb diameter have not changed. It had a near perfect fit and was not a cause of any turbulence or bad flow, since the carb, rubber and intake port opening formed a straight thru passage, without bumps or angles. Grinding the lip away only creates a hole/gap behind the rubber. Gaps and open areas create more turbulence and is actually bad for flow.

I am not trying to bash you or anything, but do you guys have a different model with a different rubber between the carb and intake? It did not make sense to me to mess around with the lip. The carb, rubber and the intake line up real well in stock form.

 

Freez,

Im curious, what machine do you ride, and what have you done to yours? You offer up lots and lots of input to everyone, and everyone seems to be wrong. ( accept you) . Im not starting anything here, Im just wondering when and where some of us could see your amazingly built machine. With all the input you have towards everyones modifications, I could only imagine your quad has to be the fastest 4 stroke going. Where are you from, and where do you ride? I see in your profile you say your from South Africa????????? Is there alot of call for heavily modded 4 strokes down there???????????

Please shed some light onto this, Ive been reading your replies to many, many posts, but I have yet to see or hear about your quad.

Thank you,

Gary

 

I might add that when you use a ported intake that you shouldnt use the stock boot. I would imagine for the exact reason of the "lip" in the boot.... Thats a guess on my part.

Freez....... I never did see a response from the "70hp from a stock bore" thread the (VE debate) about what you do for a living or where you get your info ??

 

On another post several weeks ago MrHP recommends trimming the inner "lip" of the stock boot with a razor.