99SP500--changing gasket on front hub
#1
hi people---
Would someone be so kind as to quickly summarize the process of filling/draining the hub oil on the front end of a 1999 SP 500?
I've searched the Forums and there is a lot of talk about this, but basically I understand you have to pull the tire, undo the allen fitting (I hear it's a 3/8" ?) and rotate the wheel to 3 o clock to see if liquid comes out. If not, fill it.
I'm thinking, however, that one of my seals went (as you sit on the bike, it's the left side) because as many of you wrote in, there was fluid on the inner rim which had accumulated.
ANY HELP would really be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Would someone be so kind as to quickly summarize the process of filling/draining the hub oil on the front end of a 1999 SP 500?
I've searched the Forums and there is a lot of talk about this, but basically I understand you have to pull the tire, undo the allen fitting (I hear it's a 3/8" ?) and rotate the wheel to 3 o clock to see if liquid comes out. If not, fill it.
I'm thinking, however, that one of my seals went (as you sit on the bike, it's the left side) because as many of you wrote in, there was fluid on the inner rim which had accumulated.
ANY HELP would really be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
#2
There are 100 guys on here that know how to help you with this and you have waited 12 hours for a response. (Pitiful)
There should definitely be fluid in both hubs. If there was not, you do need to replace the hub seals. This is a fairly simple process. Just disassemle the hub taking precaution to leave the locking mechanism intact (do not remove the spring) The Unbolt the ball joint and tie rid end. Pull the strut out toward and off of the axel. (I do not recall if you really have to remove the axel from the diff... I had already removed mine so I am not sure if it is really necessary) Just pop the old seal out and clean the surface. Install the new seal and coat it with grease. Then reassemble being careful not to pinch the armature plate. I would advise anyone than owns a ATV to also own the service manual. They are cheap.
Greg
There should definitely be fluid in both hubs. If there was not, you do need to replace the hub seals. This is a fairly simple process. Just disassemle the hub taking precaution to leave the locking mechanism intact (do not remove the spring) The Unbolt the ball joint and tie rid end. Pull the strut out toward and off of the axel. (I do not recall if you really have to remove the axel from the diff... I had already removed mine so I am not sure if it is really necessary) Just pop the old seal out and clean the surface. Install the new seal and coat it with grease. Then reassemble being careful not to pinch the armature plate. I would advise anyone than owns a ATV to also own the service manual. They are cheap.
Greg
#3
Polaris500Red, there is no need to remove anything else but the brake caliper.Just remove the three torx bolts on the hub cap. Carfully work the endcap out. Next remove the bearing retianing nut. Now the hud will pull off easly. Be sure to remember the assembly order of the parts. I can't remember if the outer bearing is pressed onto the hub or not. Be careful with the inner hub awd assembly. You should now be able to inspect the inner seal. I've found that these are very durable seals and alot of times all they need is get cleaned up. They are prone to getting grass and grit wedged in there, once removed they will often seal up.I have never had to replace one. I do remamber my dealer telling me to inspect the seals mating surface though. This replacable surface is often grooved beyond use if the seal is bad. I've only done this once and this is about all I remember, I do remember that there was nothing particulary hard about though. Hope this helps. Wish I remembered more of the process for yah.
#4
Check to see if there is a groove in the surface of the wear sleeve. If there is you should replace it or you may have to do it again, I learned the hard way. If you replace the sleeve be very careful removing it. Use a punch and "circle" the sleeve tapping it off a little at a time. I say be carefull because I have seen the magnetic winding ruined more than once.
Like Greg said GET AN OWNERS MANUAL! Polaris has one of the best there is for the money.
Like Greg said GET AN OWNERS MANUAL! Polaris has one of the best there is for the money.
#6
Step 1 Remove tire,Remove center cap 3 screws pull it off any oil in there should spill on floor.3 Undo 2 bolts holding brake caliper pull off caliper and let it hang out of the way.4 On end of axle shaft there could be a snap ring to prevent axle nut from spinning right off, remove snap ring.Undo big axle nut depending on which side could be reverse thread.5.Wiggle and pull off hub, careful look at how inner and outer wheel bearings come off or fall off because you will have to re-install.6.Set housing on bench and remove brake disc.7.Remove seal and re-install new one,tap in new seal,might help to use a socket same diameter as seal to tap back in.8Rub a little grease in grooves on new seal to re-install.9 Re-install in reverse order.10.When re-installing brake caliper might have to open bleed(looks like a grease zerk)and spread apart pads slightly so caliper will re-install easier over brake disc.Once pads are spread close bleed you will have lost a small amount of fluid.11.Note due not over tighten axle wheel nut,spin hub while tightening .Tighten until you feel friction on hub ,then slightly back off until hub moves freely again.12.Add ATF oil or polaris oil to front hub through magnet allen plug.Add oil until it trickles out when plug hole is turned to 2 o'clock.Spin hub 20 times or so let sit for couple minutes to ensure oil is displaced throught hub and re-chek oil.Most importantly clean all parts and avoid contamination when doing this.I hope this will be of help to you.If anyone reads this note if i missed anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




