Thinking of making my own UHMW-PE skidplate
#1
I wasn't sure what section to post this, so I picked here since it's for a 2005 Kodiak 450.
I was knocking around the idea of making a full belly skidplate myself as a little project for my Kodiak from UHMW-PE plastic. I saw from searching a few other threads where a couple of folks have done this. I have a few basic questions though which I hope someone familiar with this material can give me some info.
1) is 1/4" thick UHMW thick enough, or should I go with 3/8" thick? I'm going to countersink the holes for bolts so that the bolts are inset and flush with the bottom.
2) Can this stuff be cut with regular jigsaw blades, or do I need a special carbide blade/other type of blade? Same for routing, special router bits needed?
3) Does UHMW-PE warp at all over time?
Any other tips on working with this material or other info about it is greatly appreciated as well. Thanks.
I was knocking around the idea of making a full belly skidplate myself as a little project for my Kodiak from UHMW-PE plastic. I saw from searching a few other threads where a couple of folks have done this. I have a few basic questions though which I hope someone familiar with this material can give me some info.
1) is 1/4" thick UHMW thick enough, or should I go with 3/8" thick? I'm going to countersink the holes for bolts so that the bolts are inset and flush with the bottom.
2) Can this stuff be cut with regular jigsaw blades, or do I need a special carbide blade/other type of blade? Same for routing, special router bits needed?
3) Does UHMW-PE warp at all over time?
Any other tips on working with this material or other info about it is greatly appreciated as well. Thanks.
#2
I have never made a skid plate out of UHMW-PE, but I have machined it before. I would think that 3/8 would be better for c-sinked holes but 1/4 may do. I was thinking the heads may pull thru 1/4 easier. And the 3/8 would be tougher when taking a hit. You should be able to cut it without carbide pretty easily but may want to spray some wd40 on the blade while its cutting to keep it from heating up to much. Routing should be the same deal. And in my experience with it uhmw-pe doesnt warp much at all.
#4
Your welcome Argyll, It will probubly be easier to drill and especially c-sink with wd-40 also. It lubricates the drill/saw and cools it too. What size flat head screws were you planning on using?
#5
I was actually going to see if I could just use the original bolts that are already there for the stock skid plates by matching up the mounting hole positions on my template. I don't know what size they are, have to check. I'd guess they're either 1/4" or 3/8" bolts though just from memory of having the skid plate off before.
Do you think leaving 1/8" amount of material under the bolt head (by a 1/4" countersink), will be enough strength to hold the plastic to the frame without risk of it being ripped off on a hard hit? I've not worked with this stuff before so I'm not real sure how strong it really is.
Also, what's a fair price I could expect to pay for a sheet of 3/8" x 24" x 48"?
Do you think leaving 1/8" amount of material under the bolt head (by a 1/4" countersink), will be enough strength to hold the plastic to the frame without risk of it being ripped off on a hard hit? I've not worked with this stuff before so I'm not real sure how strong it really is.
Also, what's a fair price I could expect to pay for a sheet of 3/8" x 24" x 48"?
#6
I would leave atleast 3/16 and let the heads stick out a little, maybe even a little thicker. I went to mcmaster.com and it ranges from 33.00 to 175.00 for a 2'x4' sheet. We buy from them at work on a weekly basis.If you go to their website and use polyethelene as a search word you can make your way to a page with 8 choices. I liked part # 8769K62 because it was weather resistant. I would give you a link to the exact page, but their website prevents it. I will give you this though mc master carr
#7
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#8
Thanks again mywifesquad. The part number you gave me is exactly what I'm looking for I think. Mcmaster's site is pretty nice, a great detail of info on this stuff.
Wolvydude, the 3/8"x2'x4' sheet I'm considering is $57 @ mcmaster.com. The $175 and more sheets are for larger sheets. This looks like it might be a fun project, I think I'll do it.
Wolvydude, the 3/8"x2'x4' sheet I'm considering is $57 @ mcmaster.com. The $175 and more sheets are for larger sheets. This looks like it might be a fun project, I think I'll do it.
#9
Originally posted by: Argyll
Thanks again mywifesquad. The part number you gave me is exactly what I'm looking for I think. Mcmaster's site is pretty nice, a great detail of info on this stuff.
Wolvydude, the 3/8"x2'x4' sheet I'm considering is $57 @ mcmaster.com. The $175 and more sheets are for larger sheets. This looks like it might be a fun project, I think I'll do it.
Thanks again mywifesquad. The part number you gave me is exactly what I'm looking for I think. Mcmaster's site is pretty nice, a great detail of info on this stuff.
Wolvydude, the 3/8"x2'x4' sheet I'm considering is $57 @ mcmaster.com. The $175 and more sheets are for larger sheets. This looks like it might be a fun project, I think I'll do it.
Wolvydude, the $175.00 piece is flame retardant and has a UL listing. I would assume that just having a UL listing raises its price considerably.
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