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new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:13 PM
  #1  
chevytrkn1's Avatar
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Default new to site and atv's

This morning i purchased my first, 2006 Brute force 750i Ive grown up riding/racing dirt bikes and snowmobiles and have ridden my dads 4 wheelers a few times. Anyways i look forward to learning as much from you all as i can.
Anyone got any tune up tips, Basic mods i can do without tearing the motor apart, Exhaust,Electrical, etc.
thanks everyone
 
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:19 PM
  #2  
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Welcome aboard. Congrats on the new ride. I'm sure these guys here will help you get it to your likeing.
Ride Hard! =]
 
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #3  
alwaysride's Avatar
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

To keep your belt from burning up, make sure you use LOW gear as much as possible. Going slow, pulling, climbing, mudding, etc and you should be fine
 
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

Welcome,the VDI or DYNA cdi will get you more power(wheelie time)and give you more through the entire rpm range. Or a module (moose,dg5,hl icm) they will dissable the low end retard so you can wheelie check out this site copperhead. Or you can check out ebay for the DYNA or modules.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #5  
chevytrkn1's Avatar
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

thanks guy for the welcoming and the tips
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 02:01 PM
  #6  
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

My biggist tip for you is , and Im not being a smart a$$. Is trade it for another big bore. Here are my points that led me to trade my new Brute back in for a 06 Griz.
READ THIS POST CARFULLY, dont rush through it, most of you Brute owners will respond not in a kind fashion and become defensive. I know because I used to be that way up till I took it for a trail ride. Im not writing this to **** Brute owners off. This experience is with after market tires.

1) If you do rough trail riding as on rocks or steep inclines such as steep downgrades, this machines suspension was not made for it, or they Kawasaki did no testing with it on those kinds of trails, beats me but the front suspension is junk. Its to top heavy, and feels way to tippy and from my extensive trail riding it is to top heavy.
The suspension does not handle the rear to front weight transfer while breaking on a down hill incline, it causes the machine to tip or with some speed will cause it to push of the trail. For inexpearnced rider this may be cause for an accident. The fun factor with this drops the Brute to zero in my book.
Most people who have money would buy a better shock and spring package for it, that may help with the weight transfer. I did buy new front springs for it, it made turning while in 4 wheel drive a workout. For that matter it made turning while in 2 wheel drive not much better, plus it put unwanted stress on the tie rods. We all know about the Brutes tie rods. While riding on rocky terrain the Brute is unresponsive and unwieldy which make for a very uncomfortable ride.

2) The rear break system on the Brute is great, the way its design is and all. No wear and no
matainence with them. Stoping the Brute is a whole different matter.
On down hill inclines the breaks tend to lock up, front and rear. Dont know the reason for this oher than the Brute is just to heavy and there is no play in the breaks. On rocks or leaves the Brute will not stop.

3) The seat is wide, hard and to high. For a smaller rider this may be an issue?

Now to be fair there are good points to the Brute!

1) POWER!! It has all you need and more for going through mudd, which I have found out this is where the Brute shines!! Its home is in the mudd, with good after market tires the Brute is amudd machine.

2) Top end speed the machine ROCKS!!

3) Pulling power. If you are on a farm or in that type of environment here the Brute has another home, its pulling power is great with an after market hitch or better towing pakage.

Thats my rundown and opinion of the Brute. Feel free to debate me here on the suspension issue. But those are the facts and and its hard to debate with proven facts. Those facts led me to trade my Brute for a 06 Griz.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #7  
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

chevytrkn1, you have a private message
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:24 PM
  #8  
cammoman's Avatar
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Default new to site and atv's Brute Force 750i

Originally posted by: States40
My biggist tip for you is , and Im not being a smart a$$. Is trade it for another big bore. Here are my points that led me to trade my new Brute back in for a 06 Griz.
READ THIS POST CARFULLY, dont rush through it, most of you Brute owners will respond not in a kind fashion and become defensive. I know because I used to be that way up till I took it for a trail ride. Im not writing this to **** Brute owners off. This experience is with after market tires.

1) If you do rough trail riding as on rocks or steep inclines such as steep downgrades, this machines suspension was not made for it, or they Kawasaki did no testing with it on those kinds of trails, beats me but the front suspension is junk. Its to top heavy, and feels way to tippy and from my extensive trail riding it is to top heavy.
The suspension does not handle the rear to front weight transfer while breaking on a down hill incline, it causes the machine to tip or with some speed will cause it to push of the trail. For inexpearnced rider this may be cause for an accident. The fun factor with this drops the Brute to zero in my book.
Most people who have money would buy a better shock and spring package for it, that may help with the weight transfer. I did buy new front springs for it, it made turning while in 4 wheel drive a workout. For that matter it made turning while in 2 wheel drive not much better, plus it put unwanted stress on the tie rods. We all know about the Brutes tie rods. While riding on rocky terrain the Brute is unresponsive and unwieldy which make for a very uncomfortable ride.

2) The rear break system on the Brute is great, the way its design is and all. No wear and no
matainence with them. Stoping the Brute is a whole different matter.
On down hill inclines the breaks tend to lock up, front and rear. Dont know the reason for this oher than the Brute is just to heavy and there is no play in the breaks. On rocks or leaves the Brute will not stop.

3) The seat is wide, hard and to high. For a smaller rider this may be an issue?

Now to be fair there are good points to the Brute!

1) POWER!! It has all you need and more for going through mudd, which I have found out this is where the Brute shines!! Its home is in the mudd, with good after market tires the Brute is amudd machine.

2) Top end speed the machine ROCKS!!

3) Pulling power. If you are on a farm or in that type of environment here the Brute has another home, its pulling power is great with an after market hitch or better towing pakage.

Thats my rundown and opinion of the Brute. Feel free to debate me here on the suspension issue. But those are the facts and and its hard to debate with proven facts. Those facts led me to trade my Brute for a 06 Griz.
Have tested both extensively and true the Grizz is a softer plush ride with a more comfortable seat. The Brute is easily modified and as far as the stopping problem the Brute's brake system works better than Yamaha and stops just as good if not better. The weight of the machines are very even, actually the brute is a little lighter (depending on tires and mods). The Brute will also run circles around a Grizzly (even a modded 686 Grizz). If you want a ride like a car get the Grizz, if you want power and lots of it the Brute is the only way to go. Three of the guys we ride with switched from Grizzly's to the Brute Force 750's this year and wish they would have done it sooner!
 
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