Blaster Info
#1
hey everyone...... i just bought a stock 2000 Blaster and i was wondering a few things.....
1. the stance has a short wheelbase.......are wheel spacers a bad thing?
i have even seen people turn their front wheels around to acheive a wider stance......is this bad?
2. besides airflow.....what is other ways to improve power?
3. what are some common problem i need to watch for?........
thanks for all the help i really appreciate it ........
i dont know much bout 2 stroke/4 strokes so you may see more questions from me
thanks again
1. the stance has a short wheelbase.......are wheel spacers a bad thing?
i have even seen people turn their front wheels around to acheive a wider stance......is this bad?
2. besides airflow.....what is other ways to improve power?
3. what are some common problem i need to watch for?........
thanks for all the help i really appreciate it ........
i dont know much bout 2 stroke/4 strokes so you may see more questions from me
thanks again
#2
Welcome to the forums
Wheel spacers can be ok but they do cause extra stress on different parts. If like to jump alot they are probally not a good idea.
Flopping the wheels will do the same thing just not as much. With most you have to move the valve stem to other side or they will hit.
I dont know alot about 2 strokes so Ill let others speak on more power
Just keep the maintenance up on it and it shouldnt give much problems
Wheel spacers can be ok but they do cause extra stress on different parts. If like to jump alot they are probally not a good idea.
Flopping the wheels will do the same thing just not as much. With most you have to move the valve stem to other side or they will hit.
I dont know alot about 2 strokes so Ill let others speak on more power
Just keep the maintenance up on it and it shouldnt give much problems
#4
OK, first thing first. The wheelbase is the distance from the centerline of the front wheels to the centerline of the rear wheels. The reason I mention this is some people do like to lengthen the wheelbase to make the blaster track better. Aftermarket a-arms are usually 1" farther forward, and there are extensions and other things to lengthen the swingarm. (makes it fell more stable when traveling at high speed over rough ground) Adding spacers or wider axles, makes the Blaster wider and helps tremendously on the cornering. Plus, it makes it alot less "tippy feeling". Flipping the front wheels is a easy way to make the front wider. On yours, the valves should clear the drum brakes on the inside, but double check to make sure. If not, you can get some "flush mount" valve stems and you don't have to drill new holes in your wheels.
Putting more air in and getting it back out is the easyist way to get more power out of it. A good pipe, and take the airbox lid off and jet it accordinly is a good place to start Then you can look into reeds, spacers, carbs, porting, bigbores, stroker cranks, ect.... the list is huge for these things.
Problems we've had has been the top a-arms. We broke 2 in a week. After doing alot or research, that has been a problem for alot in the past. You brakes are probably one of the biggest problems. Drums in the front and mechinal disc in the rear are not the best set up. A good set of tires is well worth the money if it still has the stockers on it.
You might also try some of the blaster only forums for more advise. This sight is a good one, but places like project blaster might help you a little more.
Feel free to ask any question you might have!! Good luck!!
Putting more air in and getting it back out is the easyist way to get more power out of it. A good pipe, and take the airbox lid off and jet it accordinly is a good place to start Then you can look into reeds, spacers, carbs, porting, bigbores, stroker cranks, ect.... the list is huge for these things.
Problems we've had has been the top a-arms. We broke 2 in a week. After doing alot or research, that has been a problem for alot in the past. You brakes are probably one of the biggest problems. Drums in the front and mechinal disc in the rear are not the best set up. A good set of tires is well worth the money if it still has the stockers on it.
You might also try some of the blaster only forums for more advise. This sight is a good one, but places like project blaster might help you a little more.
Feel free to ask any question you might have!! Good luck!!
#6
yeah dont go with that^^^^^^ pipe. get sms port and polish, toomey or lrd pipe, K&N, 240bb, shave the head, sms a arms, DONT get front wheel spacers, elimantor +2+2 axel, +3 swinger, renthal or pro taper bars, and that will keep u set foe a long time. And u can flip the fronts, shave the fenders, and removed the stock nerfs.
#7
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#8
if you dont want to spend a lot of money on a pipe you can go with a fmf pipe there ok for there price. or for a little more money a good pipe would be a fat boy2. k&n are the only air filter you'll ever need. if you want more power you can get a better carb they give you more power and keep it running strong . to big of bore or stroke can ruin your motor. spacers are ok.
#10
Welcome to the nuthouse.
I've messed with Blasters for a while now, see the pix on my page.
Your front rims will flip around and your valve stems will clear. On a Blaster this increases the width quite a bit, and bump steer isn't bad unless you're beating around rutty trails with lots of roots and rocks.
If you have the stock back tires still, ditch them for some lower profile ones like Holeshots. You don't need high buck ones to make a big improvement.
The Blaster axle is the same width and diameter as a Raptor 660. It will handle wheel spacers just fine, get a set of Tusk ones from Rocky Mountain ATV and now your handling will be much better.
Most of the pipes for Blasters perform around the same. Find yourself an FMF on ebay for a cheap one, the right side pipes on Project Blaster like I bought work very well and are reasonable.
After a pipe, the very next thing for go-go (besides the K&N you bought as your first item) is a 30mm carb. Not a hard thing to do, get one from either Project Blaster or Trenga, they are under 200 bucks all ready to go and will make as big a difference as the pipe does.
Now you're stylin', after these mods you get some a arms, lengthen the swingarm, port the engine, spend big bucks. Or, you get a bigger bike. The Blaster is fun to work on and learn on and ride.
SR
I've messed with Blasters for a while now, see the pix on my page.
Your front rims will flip around and your valve stems will clear. On a Blaster this increases the width quite a bit, and bump steer isn't bad unless you're beating around rutty trails with lots of roots and rocks.
If you have the stock back tires still, ditch them for some lower profile ones like Holeshots. You don't need high buck ones to make a big improvement.
The Blaster axle is the same width and diameter as a Raptor 660. It will handle wheel spacers just fine, get a set of Tusk ones from Rocky Mountain ATV and now your handling will be much better.
Most of the pipes for Blasters perform around the same. Find yourself an FMF on ebay for a cheap one, the right side pipes on Project Blaster like I bought work very well and are reasonable.
After a pipe, the very next thing for go-go (besides the K&N you bought as your first item) is a 30mm carb. Not a hard thing to do, get one from either Project Blaster or Trenga, they are under 200 bucks all ready to go and will make as big a difference as the pipe does.
Now you're stylin', after these mods you get some a arms, lengthen the swingarm, port the engine, spend big bucks. Or, you get a bigger bike. The Blaster is fun to work on and learn on and ride.
SR
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