I know this subject has been visited, i read some archive posts on this kit. I have some questions that perhaps those of you in the know could share your wealth of knowledge with me.

In looking at this kit it states on the 2006 model, which we have, I will have to cut off the lower shock bolt. Ok, so I may not be the brightest star in the sky, but why? Does this bolt not come off except to cut it off?

Can I still use aftermarket shocks with this kit? How far (per side) does it increase it?

thanks......

 

Well I thought I might share the email I received From JL which answered many of my questions.
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#1 re: shock bolt. It is not the bolt but the nut that has to be cut off. On the lower shock mount there is a nut that the shock bolt screws into, for some reason after 18 years of making the LT80 virtually the same, in 2006 Suzuki decided to weld this nut to the lower shock mount.

#2 re: Works shocks. Yes you can still run Works shocks (which is actually the best way to go) you just need the riders weight, type of riding, ability level, and the a-arm length which would be +3 if you are using a front end extender. If you click on the front shocks on our web site in the LT80 section you will see the options for the shocks.
Also if you are running stock shocks and the rider is heavy you may have some negative camber (the top of the tires leaning in) due to the increased leverage on the front shocks. This seems to vary from one 80 to the next.

#3 re: front end alignment. The tie rods have left hand threads on one end and right hand threads on the other. There is a lock nut on each end of the tie rod which you need to loosen then the tie rod end can be screwed out and installed in the new tie rods, remember that the left hand end will have to be turned backwards. As far as the front end alignment goes it is best to start with both tie rods the same length, and then by turning the tie rod one direction or the other it will get longer or shorter turning each front wheel in or out. Usually if nothing is bent both tie rods will be adjusted to the same length and the handle bars will be straight when the Quad is going straight. In some cases you will have to adjust the tie rods to different lengths to make the handle bars straight.
I am not sure what the stock setting is for the front end but it should probably have a small amount of tow-in meaning the distance between the front of the tires should be less than the distance between the rear of the tires. This can easily be checked with a tape measure.

 

Hello I'm new to the forum. I recently bought two LT80s for my kids and we love them! I would like to widen the stance using the above mentioned extender kit. I have looked everywhere I can think of and the only two options I can find are (1) wheel spacers or (2) new a arms from CT racing's website (I don't want to pay for new a arms).

Does anyone know if they still make the extender kit for the LT80s?

Thanks a lot!

 

Search in here. I forget the fella's name but he made some of the Jlucky kits.
Maybe dirtdevil remembers his name.

 

Hi

I made a set by my self.

First i made all the pieces in cardboard.

Took them to a machine shop who cut out the pieces i 6 mm iron.

Then i mounted them to the A arm and they welded them together.

Best regards

Kell

 

What tie rods did you use?

 

I used the original tie rods.
I extended them with the same length as the a arms.
I used 10 mm round iron.

On one of the pictures you see the extentions

Best regards

Kell

 

I don't personally care for widening the LT80 like this...it only exaggerates the negative camber issue (found on all single a-arm setups) upon suspension compression making it twitchy (technically called camber thrust) or this | | to something like this / \.


If Bergmann still has those cardboard cut-outs, I could fab some up for you.


Otherwise the lug nut spacers also work...

 

If I was to make a set, I'd make them to correct the camber.

 

Well...I think you can reduce it, but not by much...it's just the geometry of a fixed point (hub/spindle) attached to a lever (a-arm) that arcs as it travels...you'd almost need positive camber at rest to offset the increased negative camber during compression (kinda what the Midwest Mini long-travel shocks do...)


This was why I went down the double a-arm route as it cures most of it by having the hub/spindle float between ball joints. Of course that created another geometric situation I hadn't considered...excessive toe-out on compression. Had to fab some tie-rod spindle spacers to get those angles right...fun, fun!!!!


I'm no expert, but my understanding increased during that hellish project