70 Sunl Transmission slipping
#1
I bought a 70 Sunl last year that only has about 10 hours on it. It took me months to get it to run correctly. Problem with the needle jet. Had to buy a new carburetor to fix the problem finally. My newest problem is that the transmission is slipping at about 5 mph when going up a grade. My son only weighs 35 lbs and this THING has definitely not been abused. It hasn't ran long enough to be abused. When I purchased it I was told it was a 4 speed automatic transmission, which I found out it definitely isn't. The only manual I could find that I guess is similar to the motor is for a Yamoto 70 (and it is a parts catalog). According to this catalog it has a one way clutch and then a clutch. Has anyone replaced the clutch on one of these yet. Raceway, any suggestions how to fix this? What is involved in inspecting/replacing the clutch on this 4 speed auto?
#3
We've a sunl 70. It's definately a one gear auto. It's a honda clone engine as you know. My daughters has been through everything imaginable and still runs like a sewing machine. To get it to run like that I had to adjust the valves and move the clip in the carb (initially, it was a PITA to start in the cold).
We've had no prob with the clutch but I assume the nut and screw on the right side of the engine (as you sit on it) is the adjustment. That's how my rancher is (tho in the front of the engine b/c honda rotated the engine 90 degrees on many atvs in the late 90s/early 2000s). Go to the honda section and search "clutch adjustment" or some variations. Try what is recommended in those posts.
If that doesnt work, you're probably going to have to replace the clutch, which will require you pulling off the right side engine cover. I don't know the details as I've only replaced clutches on a 230 suzuki quad sport, which was pretty easy. It was a manual clutch so I don't know what, if more, is required on an auto clutch.
Maybe someone else will chime in. You also might try searching in this and the kid's quads section about clutches.
Rodney
We've had no prob with the clutch but I assume the nut and screw on the right side of the engine (as you sit on it) is the adjustment. That's how my rancher is (tho in the front of the engine b/c honda rotated the engine 90 degrees on many atvs in the late 90s/early 2000s). Go to the honda section and search "clutch adjustment" or some variations. Try what is recommended in those posts.
If that doesnt work, you're probably going to have to replace the clutch, which will require you pulling off the right side engine cover. I don't know the details as I've only replaced clutches on a 230 suzuki quad sport, which was pretty easy. It was a manual clutch so I don't know what, if more, is required on an auto clutch.
Maybe someone else will chime in. You also might try searching in this and the kid's quads section about clutches.
Rodney
#4
Thanks for the response. I have a thread started on the kids forum and have received a couple of informative responses also. I am more than a little upset with being blatantly lied to by Raceway when I purchased the unit. Their web page for the XL-70 (Sunl-70) has been altered since I purchased the unit stating that it is an automatic transmission now. I called 2 times before I purchased the ATV to verify that it had a 4 speed transmission, and both times the sales associate assured me that it was a 4 speed auto. The other thing that I noticed on their web page is how they state "Our XL-70cc ATV also comes with a rear mono shock with good travel that produces a comfortable soft ride on just about any terrain." This is another JOKE. The suspension is just there for looks, it has no travel unless you weigh well over 100lbs. It rides like a brick! The only hope of getting any sort of decent (and that is an exaggeration) ride out of this thing is to lower the tire pressure to 4 lbs and then the tires won't stay seated on the rim, so that is pretty much a wast of time also! A bent rear axle from the get go didn't help any either. Basically an all around piece and waste of money. The biggest aggravation is I didn't find these problems until after the warranty expired, because I couldn't get it to run correctly until after adjusting the valves replacing the carb, and ordering a custom rear sprocket so my son could get it started moving without having to adjust the limiting screw so far that it would go way to fast for him to safely ride it. How do you like yours????
#5
HT,
I do recall last year that the website said "4 speed auto". This came up before at http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...eyword1=rodney
I said:
---------------
"Regarding that most sunl's are 4 speeds with auto clutch, we bought a 70 cc sunl from raceway for my 7 y.o. for Christmas. It seems geared a little high at times but for the most part, does really good and we're very happy with it. Anyway, raceway's description of the 70 describes the transmission as a "four speed fully automatic" it then goes on to tout the virtues of a geared unit over an auto (the 50cc is described as a semi automatic). The 70 is definately fully automatic, it is the 4 speed part that I seriously question. I cant hear/feel it change gears.
Is anyone familiar with this transmission and what it really is?"
------------
To which, 2manytoys responded:
-------------
"Rodney, that is a typo when you see 4 speed fully automatic. I dont think I have actually seen a SunL with a semi auto tranny. All that I have seen are describes as fully automatic. What they do is take the semi auto tranny, put it in second or third gear and take the shifter off. This is why they feel geared too high. You dont have the low end of the 1 or second gear. So you wont feel a shift. True fully automatics are belt driven cvt trannies. All the smaller chinese quads are gear driven one way or another. This is thier concept of a fully automatic trans. The bigger 150 and 200cc chinese quads are belt driven cvt trannies. These are real fully automatic quads. "
-------------
And, I said:
---------------
"Like you say, I had thought that the transmission must essentially have one gear installed with an automatic clutch. As to the "typo", its in the description and in the specs - probably more of a miscommunication with whomever put the page together. In any event, it's fairly misleading, I relied upon it to some extent in choosing between the 90cc and the 70cc, especially given the number of complaints about the auto's lack of power.
On the other hand, the available power of the 70 is not too bad - certainly not as bad as that described by many with auto minis described in other threads (such as wont pull over a brick, wont go forward if stopped on an incline). The sunl 70 will do those things without trouble.
My older daughter has a baby falcon 110. It has 3 forward and and reverse. The sunl 70's transmission approximates the 110 in second. Of course the 110 has a little more hp, but the gearing seems about the same."
-----------------
I can't speak for raceway, but based on some of the stuff I've seen them do, I think if you would have called them explained this, they may have helped out. I don't know this for sure but one thing that made me really happy with them is that the cdi managed to quit on my daughter's early last summer. I had totally forgotten about warranty - thought it expired if anything. I called to buy a new cdi. They looked me up on the computer and informed me that I still had warranty and the part was therefore free. I had not asked them about it.
We've had pretty good luck with the 70. After getting it adjusted as mentioned above, it has ran like a top. Kids and adults have ridden this thing - and ridden it hard. My daughter became quit fond of hitting large puddles or the corner of the pond with enough force for it to inhale water to the point that after one hard run through the water she would have to nurse the bike around for a minute to get enough water out of the carb for her next run. Of course some times she hit it too hard and dad had to drain the carb.
The brakes have been replaced once. The valves and carb (internal clip, mixture and idle) have been adjusted. I need to get a new batt. for it (this will be the third) as we're have to jump start it now. Believe it or not, the alarm still works (although I did relocate it slightly and seal it real good with rtv). With the new 150, it doesn't get ridden much now but it still cranks and runs good.
On the other hand many, many people have not been so lucky. I think it was really hit or miss with these things. And one things certain: even if you hit, you need to have some mechanical skills.
I would not suggest buying one of the painted ones. Ours is artic camo. It faded badly and the paint cracked in places. So, it's not so attractive now.
Rodney
I do recall last year that the website said "4 speed auto". This came up before at http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...eyword1=rodney
I said:
---------------
"Regarding that most sunl's are 4 speeds with auto clutch, we bought a 70 cc sunl from raceway for my 7 y.o. for Christmas. It seems geared a little high at times but for the most part, does really good and we're very happy with it. Anyway, raceway's description of the 70 describes the transmission as a "four speed fully automatic" it then goes on to tout the virtues of a geared unit over an auto (the 50cc is described as a semi automatic). The 70 is definately fully automatic, it is the 4 speed part that I seriously question. I cant hear/feel it change gears.
Is anyone familiar with this transmission and what it really is?"
------------
To which, 2manytoys responded:
-------------
"Rodney, that is a typo when you see 4 speed fully automatic. I dont think I have actually seen a SunL with a semi auto tranny. All that I have seen are describes as fully automatic. What they do is take the semi auto tranny, put it in second or third gear and take the shifter off. This is why they feel geared too high. You dont have the low end of the 1 or second gear. So you wont feel a shift. True fully automatics are belt driven cvt trannies. All the smaller chinese quads are gear driven one way or another. This is thier concept of a fully automatic trans. The bigger 150 and 200cc chinese quads are belt driven cvt trannies. These are real fully automatic quads. "
-------------
And, I said:
---------------
"Like you say, I had thought that the transmission must essentially have one gear installed with an automatic clutch. As to the "typo", its in the description and in the specs - probably more of a miscommunication with whomever put the page together. In any event, it's fairly misleading, I relied upon it to some extent in choosing between the 90cc and the 70cc, especially given the number of complaints about the auto's lack of power.
On the other hand, the available power of the 70 is not too bad - certainly not as bad as that described by many with auto minis described in other threads (such as wont pull over a brick, wont go forward if stopped on an incline). The sunl 70 will do those things without trouble.
My older daughter has a baby falcon 110. It has 3 forward and and reverse. The sunl 70's transmission approximates the 110 in second. Of course the 110 has a little more hp, but the gearing seems about the same."
-----------------
I can't speak for raceway, but based on some of the stuff I've seen them do, I think if you would have called them explained this, they may have helped out. I don't know this for sure but one thing that made me really happy with them is that the cdi managed to quit on my daughter's early last summer. I had totally forgotten about warranty - thought it expired if anything. I called to buy a new cdi. They looked me up on the computer and informed me that I still had warranty and the part was therefore free. I had not asked them about it.
We've had pretty good luck with the 70. After getting it adjusted as mentioned above, it has ran like a top. Kids and adults have ridden this thing - and ridden it hard. My daughter became quit fond of hitting large puddles or the corner of the pond with enough force for it to inhale water to the point that after one hard run through the water she would have to nurse the bike around for a minute to get enough water out of the carb for her next run. Of course some times she hit it too hard and dad had to drain the carb.
The brakes have been replaced once. The valves and carb (internal clip, mixture and idle) have been adjusted. I need to get a new batt. for it (this will be the third) as we're have to jump start it now. Believe it or not, the alarm still works (although I did relocate it slightly and seal it real good with rtv). With the new 150, it doesn't get ridden much now but it still cranks and runs good.
On the other hand many, many people have not been so lucky. I think it was really hit or miss with these things. And one things certain: even if you hit, you need to have some mechanical skills.
I would not suggest buying one of the painted ones. Ours is artic camo. It faded badly and the paint cracked in places. So, it's not so attractive now.
Rodney
#6
I bought a red one. The web page really didn't matter since I was told 2 times that it was a 4 speed auto by an employee. Oh well, I will call John if adjusting the clutch doesn't solve the problem and then bring up the axle at the same time. Have you had any problems with your tires staying seated if running the recommended 4 lbs of pressure?
#7
We've thrown the right rear off the rim a couple of times - but that's when the adults slide/drift it in gravel. I only recall it unseating with my daughter one time but I don't know if it was flat when she started or not. Aside from her affinity for water, she's a fairly conservative driver.
On the other hand, I had to revert to slime to get the front tires on the baby falcon 110 to reasonably seal - not that the bead ever unseated - just that they leaked. Also, one of the rears on the dingo 150 refuses to seal at the bead despite me sliming it. Raceway suggested running in the high teens in the rear dingo tires (and the tires states a max of 14 psi except when seating the bead). In any event, that pressure is just too high for comfort on a bike with an already-stiff suspension. One of the rears is okay. I may have to tube the other for comfort's sake - although kids don't notice that sort of thing as much as adults.
I think that chinese rubber (nylon) just isn't as good as that from other places. The tires seem stiffer and most of them seep air - at least to some extent. Of course the bead breaking is another matter and that may be as much due to the size of the tire as it is to rubber/nylon compound.
Rodney
On the other hand, I had to revert to slime to get the front tires on the baby falcon 110 to reasonably seal - not that the bead ever unseated - just that they leaked. Also, one of the rears on the dingo 150 refuses to seal at the bead despite me sliming it. Raceway suggested running in the high teens in the rear dingo tires (and the tires states a max of 14 psi except when seating the bead). In any event, that pressure is just too high for comfort on a bike with an already-stiff suspension. One of the rears is okay. I may have to tube the other for comfort's sake - although kids don't notice that sort of thing as much as adults.
I think that chinese rubber (nylon) just isn't as good as that from other places. The tires seem stiffer and most of them seep air - at least to some extent. Of course the bead breaking is another matter and that may be as much due to the size of the tire as it is to rubber/nylon compound.
Rodney
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff Roper
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
1
Feb 1, 2022 11:48 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




