Serious trouble - need experienced help please !
#1
I know this is the Can Am / BRP section, but I know from experience that the guys here are some of the most knowledgeable on these forums. I no longer have my DS650 , but could really use help with my 06 Pred. I have some serious issues that people with engine experience can help with. please read on and reply with any help
(I also posted this in the Polaris forum in case anyone there can help)
OK here's my problem.
I upgraded my 06 Pred to include a full HMF pipe, Rath intake, K&N filter. with the Rath instructions it said put in a 175 mj. I had a dynojet kit and put in the 175 thinking that the mj stood for main jet, not realizing that the mikuni jets were totally different sized thatn the dynojets. I ran it hard a few times and noticed that a friend's stock pred with slip on had more power. I checked into it and realized I was too lean. I upped to the 175 mikuni jet and it ran much better, much more power.
Then I did an oil change and saw the problem. there was some dark ultra fine metal stuck to the magnet on top of the oil tank drain plug. When I took out the oil plug from the engine I saw more fine metal powder, but here I also saw small metal shavings. they were very thin and about 1/8 inch long and there were 4-5 of them. I know this is bad.
Here's where I need help.
I know I was too lean and ended up shaving some off my piston or cylinder walls. The bad news is that I just spent $2500 on shocks so now I'm tapped out.
I plan on doing a compression test to see where that's at, but don't know exactly what numbers I should see on a healty stock pred 500 motor.
If the compression numbers are good, should I just ride it til it drops ? or do I need to get in and do a full rebuild now ?
If I rebuild do I stay stock bore or have it machined out and go the next size bigger? I never intended to go bigger bore just for reliability, so if I go bigger it is only the next size (don't know what exactly that is).
Should I send it to a place like HPD and get the 558 kit ? or do I buy a sleeve and go back stock for reliability ?
I want to stay on 93 pump gas. The extra power would be ok if I can stay reliable. But as mentioned before cash is an issue.
If I go back stock with a std bore Weisco piston, what sleeve do I get ? and roughly how much to get it machined and installed as opposed to the $450 for the HPD 558 kit that comes with piston, gaskets, installed sleeve etc?
And if I go bigger bore where do I start with jetting to avoid problems like this again ?
I know this is a lot, but I'd sure appreciate it if any of you guys with experience dealing with this kind of internal stuff would sound off and get me pointing in the right direction.
Thanks
(I also posted this in the Polaris forum in case anyone there can help)
OK here's my problem.
I upgraded my 06 Pred to include a full HMF pipe, Rath intake, K&N filter. with the Rath instructions it said put in a 175 mj. I had a dynojet kit and put in the 175 thinking that the mj stood for main jet, not realizing that the mikuni jets were totally different sized thatn the dynojets. I ran it hard a few times and noticed that a friend's stock pred with slip on had more power. I checked into it and realized I was too lean. I upped to the 175 mikuni jet and it ran much better, much more power.
Then I did an oil change and saw the problem. there was some dark ultra fine metal stuck to the magnet on top of the oil tank drain plug. When I took out the oil plug from the engine I saw more fine metal powder, but here I also saw small metal shavings. they were very thin and about 1/8 inch long and there were 4-5 of them. I know this is bad.
Here's where I need help.
I know I was too lean and ended up shaving some off my piston or cylinder walls. The bad news is that I just spent $2500 on shocks so now I'm tapped out.
I plan on doing a compression test to see where that's at, but don't know exactly what numbers I should see on a healty stock pred 500 motor.
If the compression numbers are good, should I just ride it til it drops ? or do I need to get in and do a full rebuild now ?
If I rebuild do I stay stock bore or have it machined out and go the next size bigger? I never intended to go bigger bore just for reliability, so if I go bigger it is only the next size (don't know what exactly that is).
Should I send it to a place like HPD and get the 558 kit ? or do I buy a sleeve and go back stock for reliability ?
I want to stay on 93 pump gas. The extra power would be ok if I can stay reliable. But as mentioned before cash is an issue.
If I go back stock with a std bore Weisco piston, what sleeve do I get ? and roughly how much to get it machined and installed as opposed to the $450 for the HPD 558 kit that comes with piston, gaskets, installed sleeve etc?
And if I go bigger bore where do I start with jetting to avoid problems like this again ?
I know this is a lot, but I'd sure appreciate it if any of you guys with experience dealing with this kind of internal stuff would sound off and get me pointing in the right direction.
Thanks
#2
How many times have you changed the oil in the bike? We have an 03 and the first time I changed it when we bought it 2yrs ago there was some of the silver in the oil. How long did it run lean? Have you noticed any power drop since the oil change?
I don't think the eng is hurt, if it was mine I would put a good ride on the new oil and make sure that there is no power drop. With this being such a new bike I would think it should be ok, unless it pukes I would just ride it.
I don't think the eng is hurt, if it was mine I would put a good ride on the new oil and make sure that there is no power drop. With this being such a new bike I would think it should be ok, unless it pukes I would just ride it.
#3
I change the oil in the bike frequently. This is the first time I've seen any slivers in the oil. There weren't many, but they were larger than the usual specks from a new bike's break in period. I just changed the oil and haven't ridden it yet, but after rejetting (before this oil change) it ran strong with no problems. Power actually picked up wuite a bit from the times it was running lean.
I am going to do a comp test before riding just to see what numbers look like. Any input on what a good number would be on a stock 500 motor ?
I'm supposed to get my new shocks in this week. Then I'll give it a good hard run to see how power is. I also plan on draining the oil again after a ride or two just to see if there are any more specks or slivers of metal.
Thanks for the response cynik. I'll post here after a couple rides (should be a week or so) just to put up the compression number and report any power loss or metal in oil.
Guys please feel free to let me know what you think.
Thanks again.
I am going to do a comp test before riding just to see what numbers look like. Any input on what a good number would be on a stock 500 motor ?
I'm supposed to get my new shocks in this week. Then I'll give it a good hard run to see how power is. I also plan on draining the oil again after a ride or two just to see if there are any more specks or slivers of metal.
Thanks for the response cynik. I'll post here after a couple rides (should be a week or so) just to put up the compression number and report any power loss or metal in oil.
Guys please feel free to let me know what you think.
Thanks again.
#4
Is it a sleeved cylinder or a nik coated jug?
If it is nik coated, you can have it re-done by Millenium for about $200. . . get a new piston and call it good.
I would NOT recommend modification. Keep it as close to stock as possible to maintain reliablility.
If it were me, I woud try to get a compression check but, if not. . . run it. Check your crank-case vent for air. . . if you are getting a lot out as she is running you are getting some blow-by and that could be an indication of damage. . . Let us know.
If it is nik coated, you can have it re-done by Millenium for about $200. . . get a new piston and call it good.
I would NOT recommend modification. Keep it as close to stock as possible to maintain reliablility.
If it were me, I woud try to get a compression check but, if not. . . run it. Check your crank-case vent for air. . . if you are getting a lot out as she is running you are getting some blow-by and that could be an indication of damage. . . Let us know.
#5
It's a nik coated.
I agree I would like to stay bone stock for reliability. If it's ok as is, that's how it'll stay.
I'll have the compression check in a day or so, but won't be able to run it til later this week when the shocks come in. Either way I'll post info as it comes in.
Thanks Duneme
I agree I would like to stay bone stock for reliability. If it's ok as is, that's how it'll stay.
I'll have the compression check in a day or so, but won't be able to run it til later this week when the shocks come in. Either way I'll post info as it comes in.
Thanks Duneme
#6
I don't think your jetting was off enough to melt piston or pull nikosil off the cylinder wall. Aluminum doesn't stick to magnets and I doubt nikosil would either. I've found thin slivers of metal on my magnet before on various bikes. I've always heard it comes off the gears. Aren't clutches bi-metallic? I know you are going to see a little wear from the clutches and plates.
175 Dynojet is equal to about 163-164 in Mikuni.
175 Dynojet is equal to about 163-164 in Mikuni.
#7
Well I 'm glad to hear it shouldn't be enough to cause catastrophic damage. It was definitely running hotter, and didn't have the power it should have had. As long as it's not on the way to blown engine I'm happy.
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#8
The more I think about it probably did come from the clutch plates, no big deal you will have that from time to time.
I don't know if you have been to predatorowners.com or not, but they are a big help.
I don't know if you have been to predatorowners.com or not, but they are a big help.
#10
Clutch
Time to think about getting a clutch. I upgraded to the Barnett 9 disc. After I did, I then realized my stock clutch was slipping alot.........you just dont feel it till you have a good clutch to compare it against. The stock one wasnt a runaway slip....just a lazy hookup. Springs would have done the trick but I did the whole kit.
The predator is a high RPM band 4 stroke and I am sure your hard on it.
Time to think about getting a clutch. I upgraded to the Barnett 9 disc. After I did, I then realized my stock clutch was slipping alot.........you just dont feel it till you have a good clutch to compare it against. The stock one wasnt a runaway slip....just a lazy hookup. Springs would have done the trick but I did the whole kit.
The predator is a high RPM band 4 stroke and I am sure your hard on it.
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