Foreman450s Shifter BROKEN!
#1
Hey guys,
Riding my foreman 2003 450s easy on a dirt trail, went to shift from N to 1st and the shift lever flops around iit's not connected to anything. Pressed down to shift into R and backed it out of the woods. Can NOT sift into N or any other gear the shifter just flops up, splines are fine I can see the shaft moving but there is no resistance. (pressing down works fine) I did a search and found only this topic
http://forums.atvconnection.co...reman%20shift%20lever
but I wanted to see if there are any more opinions.
Also if anyone has any wright-ups on case removal or any diagrams or links that would be helpful please let me know
TIA
Mike
Riding my foreman 2003 450s easy on a dirt trail, went to shift from N to 1st and the shift lever flops around iit's not connected to anything. Pressed down to shift into R and backed it out of the woods. Can NOT sift into N or any other gear the shifter just flops up, splines are fine I can see the shaft moving but there is no resistance. (pressing down works fine) I did a search and found only this topic
http://forums.atvconnection.co...reman%20shift%20lever
but I wanted to see if there are any more opinions.
Also if anyone has any wright-ups on case removal or any diagrams or links that would be helpful please let me know
TIA
Mike
#2
Your problem is under the rear cover not the front cover ..
Here is a picture of the shifter assy ..There is a round ball (circled in red) that goes into the round/oval hole in the gearshift shaft .. You can check if it is broken and out of place by using a mini-mag light (or good light) and remove the dipstick and watch in at the shaft/ball assy while moving the shifter up & down ..
When the picture opens click again for full size ..
http://img505.imageshack.us/my...=450shifterballvt9.jpg
Here is a picture of the shifter assy ..There is a round ball (circled in red) that goes into the round/oval hole in the gearshift shaft .. You can check if it is broken and out of place by using a mini-mag light (or good light) and remove the dipstick and watch in at the shaft/ball assy while moving the shifter up & down ..
When the picture opens click again for full size ..
http://img505.imageshack.us/my...=450shifterballvt9.jpg
#3
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Posts: n/a
Well first you gotta samoflange in the piston, then you need to check the tire pressure, and make sure that the chain is in neutral. then you need to kick start the jumper, then you need to tighten the bolt.
Thats what i did, but i don't have a foreman 450 i have a trx174 that will outrun it so bad.
Thats what i did, but i don't have a foreman 450 i have a trx174 that will outrun it so bad.
#4
Definately look in the dipstick hole like HondaMechanic suggested.
If he was able to shift it down into reverse, most likely shift plate failure under the front cover.
Slow down trx174rider, you missed the runway by a mile
----- Gimpster -----
If he was able to shift it down into reverse, most likely shift plate failure under the front cover.
Slow down trx174rider, you missed the runway by a mile
----- Gimpster -----
#5
Thanks for all the replys guys! Looked in the dip stick hole, it looks like the round ball that goes in the oval hole on the end of the gear shift shaft is no longer inside. It is hard to see things though so we have to go a little farther. My friend and myself have torn the pile down to the motor, my question to you guys is can we pull the rear/front cover without pulling the motor or would it be best to pull the thing out. Also if we have to pull it out what's the best way, tips and tricks, etc (already have the carb, exhaust, oil lines, fuel tank etc) also best procedure for the drive shafts.
Again thanks for all the help
Thanks
Mike
Again thanks for all the help
Thanks
Mike
#6
If you get lucky and find the ball. I suggest pulling the engine and taking it apart to make sure it is not caught up inside the tranny somewhere. That would cause problems after all your hard work. Also, on the 450 when the case is split, make sure all the transmission gears stay in place. If one of the gears falls off and is installed wrong on the end of the transmission gear assemblies you will not have neutral.
Drain the oil. Remove the plastic covering the gas tank, heat shield, airbox, carb, exhaust , inner fender wells, front mud guards, foot steps, heal mud guards, reverse shift cable on the back of the engine, starter, ground cables from the engine block, gear position connector, oil temp sender wire, stator connector, spark plug wire, oil lines (do not loose the o-rings) loosen the rear driveshaft swingarm boot clamp and slide the boot away from the swing arm, and the front differential (not removed, unbolted and slid ahead ) There are 3 mounting points for the front differential- 2 bolts mounting to front frame 12mm wrench or socket to remove them, 1 bolt above the differential ( 14 mm wrenches, account for the spacer when bolt is removed ) and one below the differential ( 14 mm socket, just ahead of and in from the right lower A-arm rear mount and a little inwards from there). Stand in front of the unit, grab the front axles, pull ahead and up to release the front driveshaft. You mar need to push the driveshaft ahead and away from the front engine shaft ( the driveshaft should compress enough to move it away from the splines once the differential is pulled ahead and up a little). Rolll the front driveshaft boot back from the front differential and remove the driveshaft. On the front splines from the engine is an o-ring, remove it and do not loose it. later when the front cover is removed from the shaft it can damage the seal. Before removing the cover also, wrap a round of tape on the shaft where the o-ring was to keep from damaging the seal on sharp edges upon case cover removal over the shaft.
Engine mounting bolts, one on each side lower of the engine. Note where the spacers go and also the direction of the metal/rubber spacer washers. Unbolt the upper rear motor mount (one bolt, 14mm socket through the frame and 2 12mm socket bolts to the engine) remove the upper rear mount and note direction for installation later on.
Remove the plastic engine side covers and shift lever from the engine. Slightly lift the engine ahead and foreward to disengauge the rear driveshaft yoke ( note: make sure after the engine is removed and before install that the driveshaft yoke and shaft are slipped into place inside the rear driveshaft tube onto the pinion, they like to pull away on removal of engine and drop to the side in the tube, out of place)
Stand on the left side of the ATV and slip the crankcaes out of the frame, cylinder and head tipped away from you and remove the engine from the frame.
If you have to split the engine to search for the broken off ball end, concider a new set of rings when reassembled. In the past have been lucky and found the ball with a magnet, fishing around through access holes to the tranny area once the rear engine cover is removed.
I have tried to repair these things in the frame before, after removing the rear swing arm and rear engine cover. I have had no luck retrieving the ball end and wound up removing the engine anyway. It is probably quicker to just remove the engine and repair it that way.
I don't think I forgot to mention anything to remove, don't have a service manual handy to double check my memory.
Hope this info helps you
----- Gimpster ------
Drain the oil. Remove the plastic covering the gas tank, heat shield, airbox, carb, exhaust , inner fender wells, front mud guards, foot steps, heal mud guards, reverse shift cable on the back of the engine, starter, ground cables from the engine block, gear position connector, oil temp sender wire, stator connector, spark plug wire, oil lines (do not loose the o-rings) loosen the rear driveshaft swingarm boot clamp and slide the boot away from the swing arm, and the front differential (not removed, unbolted and slid ahead ) There are 3 mounting points for the front differential- 2 bolts mounting to front frame 12mm wrench or socket to remove them, 1 bolt above the differential ( 14 mm wrenches, account for the spacer when bolt is removed ) and one below the differential ( 14 mm socket, just ahead of and in from the right lower A-arm rear mount and a little inwards from there). Stand in front of the unit, grab the front axles, pull ahead and up to release the front driveshaft. You mar need to push the driveshaft ahead and away from the front engine shaft ( the driveshaft should compress enough to move it away from the splines once the differential is pulled ahead and up a little). Rolll the front driveshaft boot back from the front differential and remove the driveshaft. On the front splines from the engine is an o-ring, remove it and do not loose it. later when the front cover is removed from the shaft it can damage the seal. Before removing the cover also, wrap a round of tape on the shaft where the o-ring was to keep from damaging the seal on sharp edges upon case cover removal over the shaft.
Engine mounting bolts, one on each side lower of the engine. Note where the spacers go and also the direction of the metal/rubber spacer washers. Unbolt the upper rear motor mount (one bolt, 14mm socket through the frame and 2 12mm socket bolts to the engine) remove the upper rear mount and note direction for installation later on.
Remove the plastic engine side covers and shift lever from the engine. Slightly lift the engine ahead and foreward to disengauge the rear driveshaft yoke ( note: make sure after the engine is removed and before install that the driveshaft yoke and shaft are slipped into place inside the rear driveshaft tube onto the pinion, they like to pull away on removal of engine and drop to the side in the tube, out of place)
Stand on the left side of the ATV and slip the crankcaes out of the frame, cylinder and head tipped away from you and remove the engine from the frame.
If you have to split the engine to search for the broken off ball end, concider a new set of rings when reassembled. In the past have been lucky and found the ball with a magnet, fishing around through access holes to the tranny area once the rear engine cover is removed.
I have tried to repair these things in the frame before, after removing the rear swing arm and rear engine cover. I have had no luck retrieving the ball end and wound up removing the engine anyway. It is probably quicker to just remove the engine and repair it that way.
I don't think I forgot to mention anything to remove, don't have a service manual handy to double check my memory.
Hope this info helps you
----- Gimpster ------
#7
We pull the swingarm to work on this part of the shift linkage .. I find it easier than removing the engine , but I have a motorcycle lift I use so if you have to work on the ground removing the engine would be easier .. If the ball isn't under the rear cover and you can't find it with a magnet the cases should be split to find it . .
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#8
Well, last night we pulled the motor (big thanks to the Gimpster, would have spent forever with the drive shafts without your info), got the case on the bench and pulled the rear cover. Sure enough the little ball that fits into the slot for the shift shaft is not in the slot, not broken but not in the slot. The shaft with the slot feels fine (like nothings broken behind the front cover). There is some wear on the slot and ball but is that enough to let it pop out or does that mean something is broken behind the front cover?
Thanks again for everyones help!!
Mike_
P.S Dan if you read this the pn for the shaft without the C clip is for the foremanS it was just printed out too small to read.
Thanks again for everyones help!!
Mike_
P.S Dan if you read this the pn for the shaft without the C clip is for the foremanS it was just printed out too small to read.
#9
Is the end on the ball , it looks like a post on the end of the ball .. It won't come out of the oval hole if it is all there .. Here is a pic which kind of shows the post on the end of the ball (in the red circle)..
When the picture opens click again for full size ..
http://img394.imageshack.us/my.php?image=450gearzz3.jpg
When the picture opens click again for full size ..
http://img394.imageshack.us/my.php?image=450gearzz3.jpg
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