I've search the forum as much as I could. Here it is, Front passenger side wheel not engaging driver side is, while atv is elavated. Is there a specific way [ like volts or? ] to test the wire down to the hub. Or maybe testing the AWD switch itself. Hopefully I don't have to go as far as spending $200 on a front hub clutch and then find out it was a bad wire or switch. BTW that hub was very low on ATF fluid, almost none had a wet sludge is about all that was in there looking into it from the drain plug, could I have damaged clutch?
New to the forum here so I joined seeing as most peeps posting here have some background exp.
And yes the AWD light does come on.

 

Follow the wires up to the terminal board, un hook them, test them with an ohmmeter if you have one. If the drivers side eis working then so is the awd switch. It's isolated to the one side so concentrate on it. Remove the wire tires on the conduit around the brake line and look for broken wires. They are very small in diameter and break very easy

 

Will check it out as soon as I get my kid off to school, and thanks now I have a place to start [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I don't remember the reading for sure on the ohm test of the wires. I THINK its like 23 ohms or something. If I remember I will look in the tech manual when I get to work. I bet the wires are broke. Question, any wheel bearing play?

 

No she's tight

 

Well well, upon complete teardown, the strut bearing was desinagrated the cage holding the rollers that is, lucky for me the cups are not scared just need new bearings. The wheel bearings look ok but I will be replacing them since it's all apart now. The clutch assembly looks fine, is there a way to test the hub coil, I did switch the conections for the AWD and it's not the switch both wires operated the drivers side. WOW what a mess, not what I was expecting [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
By chance does anyone know if that hub coil is a press fit or is it just held in place by the blue caulk?

 

Press fit, pain in the *** in my opinion. That coil, sleeve assy need special tools for installing. You can substitute other tools but it's not a lot of fun. The pole gap needs to be .000 to .001. Make sure the armature plate is perfectly flat or else buy a new on. Be carefull replaceing the coil/sleeve assy.
During final reassembly be very careful not to let that armature plate fall out of it position or you will be doing the job again.


For some reason I have one laying under my bench. If(hopefully not) you need to replace the strut hub for any reason, let me know and I'll ship it to you. It's even the correct side! I don't remember why I have kept it but it looks as if it may have a tough time sealing due to the wear on the sleeve. Anyway, good luck!

 

You can check the coil with an ohmmeter The spec is 25 to 30 ohms resistance, no continuity to ground.

All the coil does is become a magnet when it has voltage applied to it. You could also run 12volts to one wire and ground the other wire and see if it has magnetism. If it does, probably gonna be ok. If not, replace it.

 

Thanks will try that now.

 

Sounds like you need a new coil, I had the exact problem that i just fixed last week. It took me about 2 hrs. to fix, make sure that gap is perfect or it won't engage. I had to take the whole thing apart and change the gap.