2003 KODIAK 450 NO FIRE, AND DIMM, WEAK SPARK
#1
hello everybody,
and happy new 2008 !
I just got a used 2003 kodiak 450 4x4 in as is condition with no spark issue.
this machine was really used and abused as i can tell by looking at it and reading the display,
it has 16,960 KM and 700 hours on it !
by now i spent 10 hours working on it and starting to run out of ideas
and asking for HELP PLEASE...
all the plastic is off right now and ready for inspection and to work on.
I have cheked the following points by now.
did run down of complete harness, cleaned all connections and plugs, no broken or rusted wires
cheked all the fuses and ground
charged battery everytime i work on it
tried using inline spark plug light tester, get some light but very dimm as if you were to use flash light and the battery is almost out.
even tried grounding spark plug against the block and would still get very poor, weak spark
brand new NGK spark plug boot cap
brand new NGK spark plug gap @ 0.26"
measured resistance of the spark plug coil all is within spec range
measured resistance of the stator and stator pick up coil over the phone with Mike @ Ricky stator all was within spec aswell
took crankcase cover apart to take a look at the stator, all looks new inside the case, got new gasket and sealed back together
now I have a couple more parts left to eliminate, but dont know how to test them properly ??
CDI box
CDI ignitor (Rectifier/regulator)
So again to confirm, I am able to turn the key on fine, able to turn kill switch off, and able to crank with starter and pull start,
but will never fire or backfire, will never even choke or spit once.
Fuel is there for sure, cause when i crank for too long and the plug is not tightened all the way
I have fuel coming out of the hole and the plug wet with fuel. and when i take the fuel filter off, flow of fuel is pooring out.
Help, Anyone
PLEASE....
and happy new 2008 !
I just got a used 2003 kodiak 450 4x4 in as is condition with no spark issue.
this machine was really used and abused as i can tell by looking at it and reading the display,
it has 16,960 KM and 700 hours on it !
by now i spent 10 hours working on it and starting to run out of ideas
and asking for HELP PLEASE...
all the plastic is off right now and ready for inspection and to work on.
I have cheked the following points by now.
did run down of complete harness, cleaned all connections and plugs, no broken or rusted wires
cheked all the fuses and ground
charged battery everytime i work on it
tried using inline spark plug light tester, get some light but very dimm as if you were to use flash light and the battery is almost out.
even tried grounding spark plug against the block and would still get very poor, weak spark
brand new NGK spark plug boot cap
brand new NGK spark plug gap @ 0.26"
measured resistance of the spark plug coil all is within spec range
measured resistance of the stator and stator pick up coil over the phone with Mike @ Ricky stator all was within spec aswell
took crankcase cover apart to take a look at the stator, all looks new inside the case, got new gasket and sealed back together
now I have a couple more parts left to eliminate, but dont know how to test them properly ??
CDI box
CDI ignitor (Rectifier/regulator)
So again to confirm, I am able to turn the key on fine, able to turn kill switch off, and able to crank with starter and pull start,
but will never fire or backfire, will never even choke or spit once.
Fuel is there for sure, cause when i crank for too long and the plug is not tightened all the way
I have fuel coming out of the hole and the plug wet with fuel. and when i take the fuel filter off, flow of fuel is pooring out.
Help, Anyone
PLEASE....
#3
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: hondabuster
Sounds like the intake valve is too tight. Check the valve lash.
You did a very good job, of describing your situation...welcome to the forums.</end quote></div>
thanks for your reply !
are you talking about valves inside the engine ?
something with this kinda spec?
and why would they be too tight ?
Valve clearance (cold):
Intake:
0.06 ~ 0.10 mm
(0.0024 ~ 0.0039 in)
Exhaust:
0.16 ~ 0.20 mm
(0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)
Sounds like the intake valve is too tight. Check the valve lash.
You did a very good job, of describing your situation...welcome to the forums.</end quote></div>
thanks for your reply !
are you talking about valves inside the engine ?
something with this kinda spec?
and why would they be too tight ?
Valve clearance (cold):
Intake:
0.06 ~ 0.10 mm
(0.0024 ~ 0.0039 in)
Exhaust:
0.16 ~ 0.20 mm
(0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)
#4
valves do tend to tighten up over time. It will keep something from starting but I dont know about that causing your weak spark. I would definetly try that before shelling out the dough for a new cdi.
#5
will take a closer look at the valves, is it only the intake ones that matter to me?
but i dont see my electrical problem of having weak spark being effected by this intake valves ??
but i dont see my electrical problem of having weak spark being effected by this intake valves ??
#6
Your right, the valves wont effect spark...but if you have any spark, it should at least attempt to start, which is what makes me think the intake valve is too tight, and that doesnt allow the valve to completely close, which makes the compression drop, too low to allow starting.
Checking the intake, and adjusting it, is free....after you do that, lets see what happens.
Checking the intake, and adjusting it, is free....after you do that, lets see what happens.
#7
update:
did compression test today,
guage shows constant and healthy 150 PSI
witch means that most likely valves and rings are ok
and i dont see any wet fuel or oil in my air filter box
also a little note, when I try to fire i can hear some kinda clicking/clinking sound from the crankcase. but when took the crankcase off to inspect stator did not notice and damage at all, all looked good as new.
also I took the v-belt cover off and everything looks healthy inside.
now when i crank i can see everything turning forward but not always
some times it doesnt turn and when i stop to crank it will turn backward abit just like if it was under tension, question here is if it has to turn constant and always when i crank ?
thanks for reading my long posts !!
did compression test today,
guage shows constant and healthy 150 PSI
witch means that most likely valves and rings are ok
and i dont see any wet fuel or oil in my air filter box
also a little note, when I try to fire i can hear some kinda clicking/clinking sound from the crankcase. but when took the crankcase off to inspect stator did not notice and damage at all, all looked good as new.
also I took the v-belt cover off and everything looks healthy inside.
now when i crank i can see everything turning forward but not always
some times it doesnt turn and when i stop to crank it will turn backward abit just like if it was under tension, question here is if it has to turn constant and always when i crank ?
thanks for reading my long posts !!
Trending Topics
#8
Have you tried starting with the rope pull? It can be a real bear, but can be done. Also check the spark when using the rope pull. Lots of times, when the battery is run down, the spark gets real weak on the electric start, because the starter draws so much , there isnt alot left for the cdi. If the spark is better, with the rope pull, over the electric starter, the battery needs recharging, and maybe replacement. A load test is the definitive answer on battery health, and almost all auto stores will do a load test for free.
If compression is good, the valve is seating ok.
Have you tried bump starting? Usually high range, and if necesary 4wd( if the back tires just drag instead of spin), and about 7 mph will do it. Have someone hook up a tow strap, and drag it along.
If the starter is spinning, the motor should be turning over. Use the stator side to view the crank spinning. The pulley side has a centrifical clutch on the out put end of the crank, and the pulley wont spin, untill about 1700 rpm is reached.
If compression is good, the valve is seating ok.
Have you tried bump starting? Usually high range, and if necesary 4wd( if the back tires just drag instead of spin), and about 7 mph will do it. Have someone hook up a tow strap, and drag it along.
If the starter is spinning, the motor should be turning over. Use the stator side to view the crank spinning. The pulley side has a centrifical clutch on the out put end of the crank, and the pulley wont spin, untill about 1700 rpm is reached.
#9
well I tried pull starting but no fire,
today will look at the spark when pull starting to see if its any stronger.
my battery is always charged, I put it on charge everynight after working with the machine.
never tried bump starting, will give this a try hopefully today !
now if the CDI is not working properly, bump starting will not help ?
or it might still run ?
thanks...
today will look at the spark when pull starting to see if its any stronger.
my battery is always charged, I put it on charge everynight after working with the machine.
never tried bump starting, will give this a try hopefully today !
now if the CDI is not working properly, bump starting will not help ?
or it might still run ?
thanks...
#10
can bump starting be done without a battery connected to ATV ??
the reason I'm asking is because i dont have a small atv battery at this moment
and auto battery is too big to drive around with and no room to fit it there.
thanks...
the reason I'm asking is because i dont have a small atv battery at this moment
and auto battery is too big to drive around with and no room to fit it there.
thanks...


