thanks buster for describing all this in details
i know enough about this things, been playing with boats, pwc and dirt bikes for some time now. but thank you anyways for taking your time to help me out !

I will take my carb off, and inspect everything there.
now do you think i should look at the timming first or just go ahead and look at the carb?

did you ever did timming on this type of kodiaks ?
what would be the fastest and easiest way of doing it properly ?
do i need a timming light for this, or no light needed with one cylinder ?

Thanks...

 

The timing isnt adjustable, so no, ive never looked at mine. If the timing is off, the key on the stator side would be about the only thing it could be, or a loose pick up coil. Kind of remote, that its the cause...but could be. Unfortunetly, the only way to check the timing is on a running motor@1500 rpm. Theres an access plug on the left side, under the rope pull cover, and the timing mark is under it.
It did start when you bump started it...timing cant be too far off.For now, Id focus on the carb, and the jets.
Make sure the hose connections on both sides of the carb are snug and leakfree, and if you remove the top cover over the carb, make sure the diaphram gets back on without being pinched or torn, and check to make sure it isnt pinched or torn now.
Do you have a service manual for the quad?

 

yes i do have manual for it on my computer in pdf format.

now you say that timing can only checked @1500 rpm
so the quad should start even if the timing is off ?

will look into the carb and update everyone.

thanks...

 

one more thing,
do all switches need to be functioning in order to start ?
and do i know they work if the led goes on on the display when i touch the gears?
except for the reverse led, nothing lights up when in reverse.

some input on this please aswell.

Thank you...

 

took the carb apart tonight.
took my time and looked everywhere.
first i unscrewed bolt for bowl drain and fuel came out right away, to me it already means that the bowl is ok.
all pieces are in place took everything out all the jets, the diaphragm all is looking fine, with no any visible damage or dirt ! pilot jet is clean as new !

note:
one thing I did notice is, all the jets were tight all the way in, even the pilot jet,
is this normal for them all to be tightened completely ?

thanks...

 

Yhea the jets have to be tightened completely. It is the hole that is in the middle of the jets that determines how much fuel is let into the motor.

 

If the reverse light doesnt work...its posible the last guy did the reverse override fix. Lots of guys do that. It removes the rev limiter in reverse, but the downside side, is the rverse light wont work anymore. Right now, that wont keep the motor from starting.
If you get the motor to spin, by the starter, then the lights are working right. It can be started in gear, but the left brake lever needs to be held, to get the starter to spin.
I was hoping youd find the problem in the carb. When youve been trying to start the quad...has the air filter and air box lid been on? If the lid is off, the mixture gets way too lean. When it gets really cold here in MN, ive put a mitten over the snorkle inlet to the air box, on a cold motor, to make it start easier. Enrichener circuits dont work as well as a real choke, and using the mitten, works like a choke, by shutting off air.
Id try a new spark plug, and pull it with a tow strap again. And just use the enrichener, and no thumb input while towing. If its capable of being started, itll start.
And yep, the jets get tightened down snug, its the mixture screw which gets lightly seated, and then backs out about 2.5 turns, from bottomed.
Its posible the intake valve is still too tight. The spec on the compression is 181 lbs. I know its not much different, but the cold weather coupled with the lower compression, can make it a bear to start.
Hows the gas? have you drained out the old crap, and have new gas in there?

 

today I opened up intake and exhaust valve covers to inspect valve clearance.
valves look good and both show perfect perfect clearance by the spec.
so this is out of the way for sure.

 

went back and opened crankcase cover to inspect all components inside,
cant really take anything off cause dont have flywheel puller.
but just by looking inside with a light i can see that nothing is severly damaged
all teeth seem to be in place, chain is in one piece, dont see the key yet,
any ideas on taking the flywheel off without the puller ?

is there something specific I should pay attention to ?


now when I turn the starter clutch, magneto. I am able to rotate it both ways,
clockwise and counterclockwise. is this normal ??

thanks...

 

now when I turn the starter clutch, magneto. I am able to rotate it both ways,
clockwise and counterclockwise. is this normal

Im Not sure what you mean. But the stator side is a solid connection to the crank, and its posible to rotate the motor in either direction. But using the starter, it should only go the correct way.
Im running out of ideas.
Did you try to bump start again, with a new spark plug, and air box lid on? If you got spark, compression, and fuel....it should start. If it doesnt... then that leaves timing, but thats a long shot.
Those times when it did start..even for just the few seconds...did it seem to run ok, like the timing was correct? Then did it seem to just die down , like it was running out of fuel?
An old trick i use on stuborn motors to make it start, is a few drops of 2 stroke oil, into the spark plug hole. Then spin the motor, with the spark plug out, to let the oil get to all the top ring. Then put the plug back in , and try to start. The reason I use 2 stroke oil, is because it doesnt leave deposits, like motor oil would. This should give the compression a jump up.