TIRES
#2
Tire size goes like this, your stock rear tires are 25x12-10. The 25 is the height, the 12 is the width, the 10 is the diameter of your rim. So, will 26" or 27" fit your rims? Yes as lone as you get tires for a 10" rim, like 26x12-10. The three things to be concerned with are; One, there are a few 26-10s, but very few 27-10s, you may want to think about buying 12" rims. Two, height and width of the new tires, will they rub the fenders? With stock front rims, will they rub the tie rod ends? That would totally depend on the tire size and type you choose. Third, tires are not always the height they advertise, most are smaller, some are bigger. The difference can be up to full inch. I recommend picking out the type of tires you like, then ask the particulars on that tire. I hope this helps.
#3
Bruce’s advice is right on the money. And I’ll offer you more; don’t post in all caps, it’s ANNOYING.
When “upgrading” tires on a ’97 SP you really have to watch your clearance between the tire sidewall and the right tie rod end. Generally speaking, any tires you put on the front stock wheels that are wider than 8” increase the probability of rubbing on the tie rod end. ITP makes the cheapest fix for this, a steel 12x7” wide wheel (stocks are 6” wide) with a factory offset. That means the extra inch is to the outside of the bolt surface on the hub, resulting in a wider track and allowing the wider tire to spread to the outside so it doesn’t rub. There’s another fix called an “Easy-Steer Kit” that costs about the same and reduces your steering effort by about 40%. It offsets your tie rod ends to the inside of the bike, moving them away from the tires.
Tires wider than 9” aren’t really intended to be mounted on 6” wheels though, even though some do it.
When “upgrading” tires on a ’97 SP you really have to watch your clearance between the tire sidewall and the right tie rod end. Generally speaking, any tires you put on the front stock wheels that are wider than 8” increase the probability of rubbing on the tie rod end. ITP makes the cheapest fix for this, a steel 12x7” wide wheel (stocks are 6” wide) with a factory offset. That means the extra inch is to the outside of the bolt surface on the hub, resulting in a wider track and allowing the wider tire to spread to the outside so it doesn’t rub. There’s another fix called an “Easy-Steer Kit” that costs about the same and reduces your steering effort by about 40%. It offsets your tie rod ends to the inside of the bike, moving them away from the tires.
Tires wider than 9” aren’t really intended to be mounted on 6” wheels though, even though some do it.
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Drivetrain, Suspension & Tires
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Sep 30, 2015 01:37 AM
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