Hello,
I am in desperate need of help in solving my kids bike problems. The bike will start up fine manually, however it will just run. All the electrical will not work except the kill switch. The transmission switch/ lights/ horn/ elelctric start/ will not operate. Therefore what i have is a 90 that runs but wont move on its own. Any help would be great.

 

What is your battery voltage? Is is flat out dead?

When the engine is running at a medium fast speed, what does the battery voltage measure then?

The ignition system runs on its own high voltage power supply coming off the stator. It generates ignition power the minute you start turning the engine. Its just like your lawn mower. Pull on the rope and it starts up.

All the other electrical stuff runs off the battery and battery charging system. This includes light, horn, and the solenoids that engage the transmission. I'm wondering if the charging system failed, then you ran off the battery until it wouldn't crank the starter anymore, then pull started it until the battery got so dead the rest of the electrical wouldn't work anymore, then put it away and let the battery sulphate up.

Also try jumping the quad to your car. Does it crank over when you do that? Does the other electrical stuff work?

 

One more thing to check:

The charging system and the battery connect to the entire 12 volt distribution system through one pole of the two pole ignition switch. If the ignition switch is bad then none of the 12 volt powered electrical stuff will work. But if this is the case you will have 12.6 volts on the battery terminals with the engine stopped, and 13.5 to 14.5 volts on the battery terminals with the engine running.

If the published wiring diagram is correct then the two wires to check on the igntion switch are brown and red. Red should have 12 volts on it all the time, brown should have 12 volts on it only when the ignition switch is on.

 

Thanks for your help Lynn.

I tested as you had previously mentioned the battery. Got 12.4 vdc without anything running. When I manually started the bike i got 13.6vdc on the same battery. I then traced to the red wire on the ignition as you had indicated and got 12.4 both before and after as you had indicated. but nothing before and after the switch on the brown wire. So, I agreed with you and confirmed the key switch to be bad. So, I cut the red and brown wire to confirm this and jumped the red to the brown. And the electrical system started working. My problem now is I think in jumping this red to the brown I have damaged something that is now not allowing me to get spark on the plug when grounded out to a good metal on the frame. The bike engine was running fine just before I jumped the ignition wires what might I look at for repairing my jumping mistake? Thanks again for helping.

RICH

 

i think lynn is saying the brown would supply all accesories... if you jumper to the brown from the red... that would power them up [ as it did] but the problem might be, the red is also needed to power up another wire.. ya know?

i'd say if you " tapped into" the red INSTEAD of cutting it, that would make it run. i'd guess by cutting the red, you lost keyed power to the ignition.

i'd reconnect the red so it goes threw the switch [ like normal] and " tap" into it with the brown, that should make it run and operate accesories. [ this might also drain the battery so ya might want to dissconnect it [ the battery].

 

I'm sorry, I should be more specific on my actions.
When I cut and jumped the red wire and the brown wire on the ignition, I did put the red and brown back to there original positions afterwards. And the electrical systems components are now working as they should. IE... the electric start works, the horn works, the transmission switch is working now. After I jumped it, it was as if it reset the pole inside the switch to work again. But, now I cant get it to start whereas previously I could get it to start manually but the electrical would not. It was my thought that maybe I had done something during the time it was jumped. I did however try the suggestion of tapping into the red wire on the ignition also and still have the same problem. No spark. FYI, I also tried a new plug just in case.

 

All this working/not working happened as you played with the ignition switch and its wiring. That's at least some evidence that the problem lies in that area.

I don't think jumpering those two wires together damaged anything. When your ignition switch is working that's what it does - it shorts those two wires together in the "on" position - so you were just doing the switches job.

There is another pole on the ignition switch that shorts the other two wires together when the switch is in the "on" position. My wiring diagram from the anythingatv site is kind of hard to read. I think the two colors are Blue/Yellow and White/Black. These also have to be shorted together for the engine to run. What this half of the switch does is connect the output of the timing pickup coil in the stator (the signal that tells the ignition module to fire the spark now!) to the ignition module (through the remote control receiver). I'm thinking the ignition switch is broken up inside and it is hard to get both halves of the switch working simultaneously. Try jumpering both halves of the ignition switch and see what happens (blu/yel and wht/blk together, red and brown together). Its two and two - don't wire all four together - that will blow the fuse.

Also check the handlebar run/stop switch to make sure that is in the run position.

 

Lynn,

Thank you for all the help. You were correct. By jumping the blk and yellow wires together I was able to by pass the second connection in the switch and provide the spark for the engine and confirm the problem was in the ignition switch. I have ordered a new key switch.

Now on to my wifes bike the polaris 330 which runs for a few minutes then has an erratic idle the dies as if it flooded out. I'm gonna post help for this on the other forum but if you have thoughts that would be great.

We have a two week riding trip in August and want to make sure everything is tuned up.

Again Thank you sooo much for taking the time to help me out.

Rich

 

Rich,

I'm glad you got your Eton figured out.

I'll let others be your guide for the polaris engine problems. I know some about electronics but am definately an amateur when it comes to quad engines. But speaking strictly as an amateur, is your choke stuck on?