Hey Guys,

I just disassembled and am reassembling my front left hub. Inner seal wore out and was leaking demand drive fluid. I've got everything back together, but need to know what the torque spec is for the axle's castle nut?

I have a 2005 SP500 service manual, and it says 70 ft lbs, but not sure if this is also true for a 2000.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I always just tighten it down and back it off just a little bit just to get the cotter pin in. I almost never torque bolts and haven't had a problem thus far.

 

killjoy,the 2005 models have the clutch's in the diff.its a whole diff. thing. 70 ftlbs will destroy your bearings +hilliard clutches. its alot less,,,,,,mines 12ft lbs but also has a procedure,,,,,,,,,,,

 

I`m sure I have the same manual as you do Killjoy... who ever wrote it was smoking some canibus that day 70ft lbs will destroy everything in the hub if used that way. To tighten the castle nut torque it to 15ft lbs rotate the axle in both direction 2 or 3 turns, loosen nut retorque to 13.5ft lbs, 14lbs max if cotter pin hole dont line up back off nut to the first available hole. There are some good write-ups on this site about the front hubs.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks guys.

So, I wasn't crazy thinking 70 ft lbs was way too much!

I wound up finding a service manual for the 2000 SP online. Very similar to what you guys said... initial torque to 19 nM, loosen, then re tighten to 14-16 nM. Seems to have worked - quad is back together and ready for HM in a week!!!

 

The 2000 have the awd hillary in the hubs unlike a 04s and newer, the spec is 124 in/lb. or 14 ft/lb.

 

This is correct. I believe the manual actually says to torque to 160 in/lb., spin the hub, back off 1/2 turn, then tighten to 124 in/lb.

 

just get it really tight to set ur bearings in place, then back it off, then tighten it while spinning the hub and stop when u get resistance, make sure the hub has no freeplay in it. put ur kotter key in, put it all back together and go ride