110 tao tao wont start!!
Dec 9, 2012 | 10:06 AM
#2
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From: Texas
satisfy the safety interlocks for the brake switch and if applicable, the rear tether kill switch under the seat. then it ought to give you spark.
the brake light may not illuminate due to a bad bulb, but the main thing is that the brake switch works up on the left handlebar at the piston near the brake reservoir. don't fret nor panic, we'll help you out.
the brake light may not illuminate due to a bad bulb, but the main thing is that the brake switch works up on the left handlebar at the piston near the brake reservoir. don't fret nor panic, we'll help you out.
Dec 9, 2012 | 07:06 PM
#4
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Weekend Warrior
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satisfy the safety interlocks for the brake switch and if applicable, the rear tether kill switch under the seat. then it ought to give you spark.
the brake light may not illuminate due to a bad bulb, but the main thing is that the brake switch works up on the left handlebar at the piston near the brake reservoir. don't fret nor panic, we'll help you out.
the brake light may not illuminate due to a bad bulb, but the main thing is that the brake switch works up on the left handlebar at the piston near the brake reservoir. don't fret nor panic, we'll help you out.
Dec 9, 2012 | 07:29 PM
#5
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Weekend Warrior
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Yes engine cranks but no spark by passed brake safety switch and kill switch. I'm seriously lost!! Thanks for your help!!_
Dec 9, 2012 | 09:05 PM
#6
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Hey Aaron,
How many pins are on your CDI, and what are their wire colors? What I'm trying to to is establish whether you have a DC powered CDI, or an AC powered CDI. 4 pin CDI's are DC powered, and 5 pin CDIs are AC powered.
When you measured "power" from your stator (you called it a mg or mag) you found "power" on all wires except a blue wire. Hmmm One of those wires should have been ground which of course you can't have any "power". This has me confused... I don't think blue has eve been used for ground... Look at your stator output wires and follow all of them to where they connect into the main wiring harness. How many wires are we talking about, and what are the wire colors on the main wiring harness side of the connector(s) interface?
There is a method to my madness
. I'm assuming that any color wire that enters your taped up wire harness will be the same color when it comes back out - whereever that may be. Some of the wires from the stator go to the CDI, and I've already asked you what those colors are. By telling me the colors at the stator on the wiring harness side allows me to start forming a wiring diagram. Does my explanation make sense? Note that I am not interested in the slightest about the wire colors from the stator on the way to the main wiring harness. There is no information there... Wiring harness colors only...
Kill switch issues are right up there at the top of the list. You said you "bypassed" the kill switch". That scares me. How exactly did you bypass the kill switch? Kill switch input to the CDI is "bypassed" by disconnecting the kill switch wire from the CDI. "Bypassing", by connotation, usually suggests adding an additional route (like adding a wire or connection) - which is wrong. To "bypass" a kill switch you disconnect it. You "break" the connection. You "remove" wires.
I suspect you're using a test light. If you've read many of my previous posts you know what my opinion is on these worthless pieces of crap. I'll say it again. Throw that worthless piece of crap away. The world is a complicated place. There is a broad continuum between on and off (lit and not lit). And that is very often where measurements and decisions must be made. Buy a meter. It will give you all the info you can get from that worthless test light, and a privide a whole new universe of data to contemplate. Exact and complete information is the key to success. Not just "on or off".
Ironically, meters these days are often cheaper than test lights. Go figure....
.
How many pins are on your CDI, and what are their wire colors? What I'm trying to to is establish whether you have a DC powered CDI, or an AC powered CDI. 4 pin CDI's are DC powered, and 5 pin CDIs are AC powered.
When you measured "power" from your stator (you called it a mg or mag) you found "power" on all wires except a blue wire. Hmmm One of those wires should have been ground which of course you can't have any "power". This has me confused... I don't think blue has eve been used for ground... Look at your stator output wires and follow all of them to where they connect into the main wiring harness. How many wires are we talking about, and what are the wire colors on the main wiring harness side of the connector(s) interface?
There is a method to my madness
. I'm assuming that any color wire that enters your taped up wire harness will be the same color when it comes back out - whereever that may be. Some of the wires from the stator go to the CDI, and I've already asked you what those colors are. By telling me the colors at the stator on the wiring harness side allows me to start forming a wiring diagram. Does my explanation make sense? Note that I am not interested in the slightest about the wire colors from the stator on the way to the main wiring harness. There is no information there... Wiring harness colors only...Kill switch issues are right up there at the top of the list. You said you "bypassed" the kill switch". That scares me. How exactly did you bypass the kill switch? Kill switch input to the CDI is "bypassed" by disconnecting the kill switch wire from the CDI. "Bypassing", by connotation, usually suggests adding an additional route (like adding a wire or connection) - which is wrong. To "bypass" a kill switch you disconnect it. You "break" the connection. You "remove" wires.
I suspect you're using a test light. If you've read many of my previous posts you know what my opinion is on these worthless pieces of crap. I'll say it again. Throw that worthless piece of crap away. The world is a complicated place. There is a broad continuum between on and off (lit and not lit). And that is very often where measurements and decisions must be made. Buy a meter. It will give you all the info you can get from that worthless test light, and a privide a whole new universe of data to contemplate. Exact and complete information is the key to success. Not just "on or off".
Ironically, meters these days are often cheaper than test lights. Go figure....
.
Dec 10, 2012 | 06:27 AM
#7
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Weekend Warrior
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K there's two plugs on cdi if in fact its the cdi! A 4 wire and a two wire. I should have been more clear sorry there are two wires without power one blue and one green every green wire on machine thus far has been ground this is why I didn't mention the green figured it to be the ground. As for colors ill have to get those when I get home from work this after noon. And the kill switch had 2 white and black striped wires and a green there for figured green was ground and connected 2 white and black striped wires together to bypass kill switch. I will go by a new volt meter tonight as I've lost ground wire to the one I have now. I'm not much on electrical so I really thank you for all your help!!! And my daughter will to come Christmas morning!!!!!!
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Dec 10, 2012 | 11:02 AM
#8
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I'll answer in more detail tonight when I get home from work, but wanted to respond to your kill switch bypass:
Shorting the black/white wire to green "kills" the spark. That is backwards from what you need to do. You need to keep all your kill switches open (disconnected) to enable spark. Anyone of your kill switches when shorted will kill the spark. Here are four commonly installed kill switches (you may only have some of these):
1) The left handlebar kill switch
2) One half of the two section ignition switch
3) Tether pull cord kill switch
4) Remote/start stop module
Shorting the black/white wire to green "kills" the spark. That is backwards from what you need to do. You need to keep all your kill switches open (disconnected) to enable spark. Anyone of your kill switches when shorted will kill the spark. Here are four commonly installed kill switches (you may only have some of these):
1) The left handlebar kill switch
2) One half of the two section ignition switch
3) Tether pull cord kill switch
4) Remote/start stop module
Dec 10, 2012 | 11:18 PM
#9
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From: Tracy, California, USA
Aaron,
I'm still on hold waiting for wire colors (no rush on my part - take your time
).
You say you have a six pin (two connector) CDI? On a 110cc quad? I've never seen that... ARe you sure this is a 110cc quad, and not a 150cc quad?
Does you CDI look like this:
The following only applies if your CDI looks like the above picture. Six pin CDIs can be DC or AC powered. Unfortunately they look identical, and so you need to make measurements to see which you have. Below is a generic procedure for doing just that. After we know what CDI (DC or AC) then we branch off to the next set of tests which differs depending on what CDI you have...
I'm still on hold waiting for wire colors (no rush on my part - take your time
). You say you have a six pin (two connector) CDI? On a 110cc quad? I've never seen that... ARe you sure this is a 110cc quad, and not a 150cc quad?
Does you CDI look like this:
The following only applies if your CDI looks like the above picture. Six pin CDIs can be DC or AC powered. Unfortunately they look identical, and so you need to make measurements to see which you have. Below is a generic procedure for doing just that. After we know what CDI (DC or AC) then we branch off to the next set of tests which differs depending on what CDI you have...
The 2 plug 6 wire CDIs come in two different designs. One is powered off 12 volts DC, and the other is powered off a moderately high voltage AC which comes from the stator. Unfortunately there is no reliable way to tell the difference between the two by just looking at them. To be sure you need to use a meter to find out which you have:
1) Unplug the CDI, and turn on the ignition. Do not crank the starter motor. Use a meter to measure the *DC* voltage on the pin labeled "AC ignition power" in the wiring harness to both ground pins in the 4 pin CDI connector. If you measure 12 volts DC then you have a DC powered CDI.
2) If you don't measure 12 volts DC on the ignition power pin, then switch the meter over to measure AC volts on the 200 volt scale. While cranking the starter motor, measure the AC voltage on the "AC Ignition Power" pin to the the Ground pin. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC. If you measure AC voltage when the starter is turning then you have an AC powered CDI.
Using a meter is the only 100% reliable way to figure out if your CDI is AC or DC powered. But there are some clues you can use that are usually (but not always) correct:
A) DC CDIs tend to be a little larger than their AC powered counterpart. This is because the DC powered CDI needs a bunch more circuitry to convert the 12 volts DC to the moderately high voltage supply that all CDIs must have.
B) Most (but not all) DC powered quad ignition systems do not use the kill switch input pin. The CDI connector pin usually has no wire tied to it. AC powered quad ignition systems usually do use the kill switch input pin.
1) Unplug the CDI, and turn on the ignition. Do not crank the starter motor. Use a meter to measure the *DC* voltage on the pin labeled "AC ignition power" in the wiring harness to both ground pins in the 4 pin CDI connector. If you measure 12 volts DC then you have a DC powered CDI.
2) If you don't measure 12 volts DC on the ignition power pin, then switch the meter over to measure AC volts on the 200 volt scale. While cranking the starter motor, measure the AC voltage on the "AC Ignition Power" pin to the the Ground pin. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC. If you measure AC voltage when the starter is turning then you have an AC powered CDI.
Using a meter is the only 100% reliable way to figure out if your CDI is AC or DC powered. But there are some clues you can use that are usually (but not always) correct:
A) DC CDIs tend to be a little larger than their AC powered counterpart. This is because the DC powered CDI needs a bunch more circuitry to convert the 12 volts DC to the moderately high voltage supply that all CDIs must have.
B) Most (but not all) DC powered quad ignition systems do not use the kill switch input pin. The CDI connector pin usually has no wire tied to it. AC powered quad ignition systems usually do use the kill switch input pin.