800 Rear a-arm bushings - do bolts thread into them?
#1
I was adjusting the preload on the rear springs of my 2005 800 Sportsman and noticed a huge problem!
The lower a-arm bushing at the knuckle completely sheared off!! Well, the bolt sheared, the bushing was completely missing. It looks like it's been that way for awhile. The lower a-arm is tweaked. The front bushing hole is about 1.25 inches below where it should be to align with the knuckle.
I don't remember doing anything that would have caused such a violent force to shear that off!!
So....while removing the a-arm from the machine one of the bolts that hold the a-arm to the frame just spun. Whatever holds the threads just spins with the bolt. I had to cut off the head.
After removing the a-arm it appears that the bushing is threaded to hold the bolt. My question then is: can I simply pull out the bushing and replace it with a new one and remount the arm?
Here is a link to the microfiche. I am looking at detail #31. Bolt 29 appears to thread into this bushing. It looks like the one bushing that I successfully remove the screw, I could insert a longer screw and use it as a jackscrew to force out the bushing.
However, the bushing where I cut the bolt head off, I'm not sure what to do. I would think if I could weld a bolt onto it and use a slidehammer that might work.
2005 Polaris 800 Sportsman EFI (A05MH76AC/AU/AW) Parts, 2005 Polaris 800 Sportsman EFI (A05MH76AC/AU/AW) OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com
Hope I gave enough information and it all made sense!! I also need to clamp the a-arm into a vice and tweak it back to align the outer bushing holes!!!
The lower a-arm bushing at the knuckle completely sheared off!! Well, the bolt sheared, the bushing was completely missing. It looks like it's been that way for awhile. The lower a-arm is tweaked. The front bushing hole is about 1.25 inches below where it should be to align with the knuckle.
I don't remember doing anything that would have caused such a violent force to shear that off!!
So....while removing the a-arm from the machine one of the bolts that hold the a-arm to the frame just spun. Whatever holds the threads just spins with the bolt. I had to cut off the head.
After removing the a-arm it appears that the bushing is threaded to hold the bolt. My question then is: can I simply pull out the bushing and replace it with a new one and remount the arm?
Here is a link to the microfiche. I am looking at detail #31. Bolt 29 appears to thread into this bushing. It looks like the one bushing that I successfully remove the screw, I could insert a longer screw and use it as a jackscrew to force out the bushing.
However, the bushing where I cut the bolt head off, I'm not sure what to do. I would think if I could weld a bolt onto it and use a slidehammer that might work.
2005 Polaris 800 Sportsman EFI (A05MH76AC/AU/AW) Parts, 2005 Polaris 800 Sportsman EFI (A05MH76AC/AU/AW) OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com
Hope I gave enough information and it all made sense!! I also need to clamp the a-arm into a vice and tweak it back to align the outer bushing holes!!!
#2
The two bolts thread into the a-arm shaft #35. This just knocks out of the a-arm tube if you get it out from the mounting tab..A screw driver and hammer works fine on this. If mine I'd replace both plastic bushings,the shaft and bolts and use a little extra loctite.If the a-arm is tweaked,I'd replace it too.Good idea to check all the bolts on both sides and front suspension also. I had a few customers that just dropped their machines off every six months for me just to look everything over and replace anything needed. Sometime you can catch a few things before they happen,but accidents are bound to happen,sometimes without you being aware of it.
#3
OK, that makes sense to me now. That shaft (35) goes end-to-end while the bushings surround it on each end. So when installing the bolts, I can then hold the bolt on the opposite end in order to drive each bolt to torque.
Due to the shortage of time before our ride, I am going to try to tweak the a-arm back to shape. If I do, it is a pretty solid connection with the knuckle since the bushing links them together so I don't have any worries of the arm being weak.
I will do an inspection on all the bolts! While I hate small issues - like adjusting the preload on the springs - to turn into major projects - at least I found it in the garage and not on the trail!!
Another example is new springs I just put on the wife's 400. Found one of the CV joints was destroyed and while working on the other side, I heard some grinding. Yep, one is trashed and the other on the way. Just ordered those parts and expect them early this week!!
Btw, I saw some posts on here about how to remove the axleshafts. Hands down, the best route was a pickle fork and an impact hammer!!!
Thanks for the help, OPT!!
Due to the shortage of time before our ride, I am going to try to tweak the a-arm back to shape. If I do, it is a pretty solid connection with the knuckle since the bushing links them together so I don't have any worries of the arm being weak.
I will do an inspection on all the bolts! While I hate small issues - like adjusting the preload on the springs - to turn into major projects - at least I found it in the garage and not on the trail!!
Another example is new springs I just put on the wife's 400. Found one of the CV joints was destroyed and while working on the other side, I heard some grinding. Yep, one is trashed and the other on the way. Just ordered those parts and expect them early this week!!
Btw, I saw some posts on here about how to remove the axleshafts. Hands down, the best route was a pickle fork and an impact hammer!!!
Thanks for the help, OPT!!
#4
some people awhile back was having shearded off bolt issues as well, but most of that was due to trying to jump an 800 lb machine. Not saying thats what you did, but they don't hold up well with the extra stress of that kind of pounding.
#5
While I'm not saying I baby it, I don't jump it and I don't deep-mud it. If anything, it looks like that was exactly what happened here, though!! That machine is closer to 900 wet and that's not counting my big butt!!!
When riding up a trail incline that has the water "wash outs", I will bump on the throttle and "lift" the front end over those instead of riding the contour where the front end would otherwise dive into that wash. That's probably the closest I've come to jumping it.
When riding up a trail incline that has the water "wash outs", I will bump on the throttle and "lift" the front end over those instead of riding the contour where the front end would otherwise dive into that wash. That's probably the closest I've come to jumping it.
#6
Does anyone know where I can find the microfiche from the factory? It would be nice to be able to call the dealer on the phone with the correct part number!! My local guys aren't too bright and it's not exactly in a convenient location where I can just swing by...
#7
As far as microfiche you need to go through a dealer if Polaris still has them.I had a box full that I quit using several years before I retired when everything went computerized.As far as a quick reference you can use their parts breakdown.http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...46340616,d.aWM
Or Cycle Parts Warehouse usually has the cheapest prices.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...Vs&mfg=Polaris
Or Cycle Parts Warehouse usually has the cheapest prices.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...Vs&mfg=Polaris
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#8
While I'm not saying I baby it, I don't jump it and I don't deep-mud it. If anything, it looks like that was exactly what happened here, though!! That machine is closer to 900 wet and that's not counting my big butt!!!
When riding up a trail incline that has the water "wash outs", I will bump on the throttle and "lift" the front end over those instead of riding the contour where the front end would otherwise dive into that wash. That's probably the closest I've come to jumping it.
When riding up a trail incline that has the water "wash outs", I will bump on the throttle and "lift" the front end over those instead of riding the contour where the front end would otherwise dive into that wash. That's probably the closest I've come to jumping it.
thats why i said, "Not saying thats what you did"
. I have owned 2 800's an 06&08' and i myself was know to be, les say i didn't jump it but did catch a little hair while hammering as you mentioned.
#9
Ok, a totally different question, but not sure it's worth making a new thread.
On my wife's 400 (2004.5) I am replacing front shocks and springs. Those quads sit pretty low in the front. So I began thinking; why couldn't one add a spacer below the shock and an equal-height spacer below the spring?
So if I wanted a 1" lift (or whatever) could I put a 1" tube...same diameter as shock body to raise the shock an inch...then place a tube...about the same ID/OD as the lower washer the springs sits on...to essentially raise the quad up?
I am not talking about going crazy with 3-4". I am more like 1-2". My only reservation would be if this would put an excessive angle and stress on the CV joint as this setup would essentially move the a-arm and axleshaft down the height of the spacer (in relation to the frame).
Thanks!!
On my wife's 400 (2004.5) I am replacing front shocks and springs. Those quads sit pretty low in the front. So I began thinking; why couldn't one add a spacer below the shock and an equal-height spacer below the spring?
So if I wanted a 1" lift (or whatever) could I put a 1" tube...same diameter as shock body to raise the shock an inch...then place a tube...about the same ID/OD as the lower washer the springs sits on...to essentially raise the quad up?
I am not talking about going crazy with 3-4". I am more like 1-2". My only reservation would be if this would put an excessive angle and stress on the CV joint as this setup would essentially move the a-arm and axleshaft down the height of the spacer (in relation to the frame).
Thanks!!
#10
So I just looked up some ATV lift kits just to see how they are done. Low and behold, the spacers I mentioned is EXACTLY how they are done!!
I would like 2" but I know that is stressing the new CV joints, so I may limit it to 1-1.5" Think I will machine some spacers at work this week!!
I would like 2" but I know that is stressing the new CV joints, so I may limit it to 1-1.5" Think I will machine some spacers at work this week!!
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