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YFM200 in a golf cart

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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Default YFM200 in a golf cart

I just wanted to introduce myself to the forum and show my current project. The golf cart was originally electric, the rear axle and battery tray was removed and rear of the wheeler was mocked up. It ran ok, although it wouldn't start with the keep...only pull start. Along with that it is hard to get it into reverse, i'm guessing the brakes are bad because there's no stopping and there's an oil leak.

So I have torn the set up apart to repair and modify somethings. I ordered some parts like bearings for the swing arms, oil rings for timing chain over/valve covers and still need to get new spark plug & wire, and an oil filter(if there is one). I'm also taking the cart apart because I'm putting a 8" lift on it and running 25" tires. So to get the engine lowered and keep it in line with the rear, i'm planning on making a small sub frame and may have to include a spacer or two.

This will be used to work by hauling things around the property and from time to time go on some small, light trails for some playing. I have a service manual, although it's not as detailed as a manual for something newer. So hopefully I can find the info of things I may run into on this forum. Here are pics of the progress...

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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:09 PM
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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I forgot to mention that I was reading up last night, trying to figure out why it wouldn't turn over even though it cranks by key and turns over by pull start. I believe at least one of the threads mentioned the pick up coil, so once the engine is back in the cart and all the connections are double checked I will look into the coil.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Cool project!
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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Brings new meaning to "playing a quick 9 holes".
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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Thanks for checking out the thread guys. I'm thinking of putting some type of fan to push/pull air across the engine.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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I didn't realize it's been over a month since I posted here. Well I changed out the oil rings/gaskets on the valve covers because they were leaking, also painted the engine and I know it may hold more heat since the engine is air cooled so i'm planning on adding a fan. I replaced the bearings in the swing arm because they were basically non-existent and started working on lowering the motor since I'm putting a lift kit on the cart so I figured there was a certain degree range I need to keep the rear axle in line with the motor so there wasn't any binding.

My problem is for the last 3 or so days I have not been able to get the drive shaft to lock into the U-joint. I'm not sure if there is a collar or something preventing it or what. I didn't remove the rear axles, I was hoping to connect it with everything still together but is this not possible? Thanks for any help.

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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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Also, I worked on the wiring a bit. A lot of the wires were burnt from bad connections i'm guessing, there was probably 100' of electrical tape hiding a lot of rigged up connections. I replaced the wires I thought was needed and removed what I felt wasn't, like headlights, taillights, neutral lights, etc. When I got the cart there were to wires ran to a key switch, it would crank the engine but it wouldn't turn over. I'm not sure if it was due to the weak battery or the fact some of the electronics are missing. I have the rectifier, starter relay, cdi unit and ignition coil. But I don't have the main switch, engine start/stop switch, neutral or reverse switch. Looking at the diagram, wires that would normally go to the engine start switch were ran to the key and there was a toggle switch that interrupted the ignition coil to kill the engine. I'm hoping with new wiring and a fresh battery I can get the engine to turn over by key.

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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Still in need of help with the drive shaft not going all the way into the u-joint, if anyone has advice I would greatly appreciate it.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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It is a while since I did this so hope I remember correctly. You do this with the swinging arm disconnected. You get the shaft on at the differential end, then set the UJ at the gearbox end on the prop shaft so that the cross can’t flop downwards but the splined part towards the gearbox can. Lift this bit with a screwdriver whilst aligning it with the gearbox splines, rubber boot as far out of the way as possible to see better. Once engaged, the swinging arm can be reconnected. A mechanic I work with got so frustrated trying to re-fit the shaft on the splines that he cut a hole in the tube so he could poke at the UJ better, it is not easy.
 
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