Prairie 400 drive clutch
#1
Hello everyone Does anyone out there know if a newer model prairie drive clutch will work on the 400's? Or will a brute force clutch work? Any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
Note sure if clutch from another Kawi model will work. Check some microfiches and see if they are the same part number.
I went with a Comet aftermarket and have been happy with it. I heard the clutch material, at least in the 2000 model year, was inferior and the faces would wear into a wavy pattern.
I went with a Comet aftermarket and have been happy with it. I heard the clutch material, at least in the 2000 model year, was inferior and the faces would wear into a wavy pattern.
#5
Okay so I put the comet on yesterday and it is better. But the machine is sluggish, like its in "high" gear. Anyone else ever had this problem. Could it be a weak secondary spring. It has a new or very lightly used Dayco belt that sits right in the secondary. I put new shoes that ride on the helix in the secondary clutch. Everything else looks good in there. Maybe I didn't put the spring in with right amount of tension on it ??
#6
I don't recall if the secondary spring has tension holes, but assuming it does, yes, that could be the problem.
Also, you want to have proper belt deflection/slack. Too loose and it will be like the machine is starting out in a higher gear.
Also, you want to have proper belt deflection/slack. Too loose and it will be like the machine is starting out in a higher gear.
#7
Yea, I will check the belt deflection amount.
This is how you do.
Apply about 14 lbs of force on the top of the CVT belt, mid section between the drive and driven conveters. Since not may of us have a force-gauge, you will just have to guesstimate what 14 lbs would be.
Then measure the distance how much the belt went below from the starting point. It should be no more than 30 mm or 1.2 inches. If it is more, you will need to disassemble the driven converter (which is composed of fixed and movable sheaves) and take a shim or two out to make the belt tighter. Or try a new belt and remeasure the belt deflection.
This is how you do.
Apply about 14 lbs of force on the top of the CVT belt, mid section between the drive and driven conveters. Since not may of us have a force-gauge, you will just have to guesstimate what 14 lbs would be.
Then measure the distance how much the belt went below from the starting point. It should be no more than 30 mm or 1.2 inches. If it is more, you will need to disassemble the driven converter (which is composed of fixed and movable sheaves) and take a shim or two out to make the belt tighter. Or try a new belt and remeasure the belt deflection.
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#8
Yea, I will check the belt deflection amount.
This is how you do.
Apply about 14 lbs of force on the top of the CVT belt, mid section between the drive and driven conveters. Since not may of us have a force-gauge, you will just have to guesstimate what 14 lbs would be.
Then measure the distance how much the belt went below from the starting point. It should be no more than 30 mm or 1.2 inches. If it is more, you will need to disassemble the driven converter (which is composed of fixed and movable sheaves) and take a shim or two out to make the belt tighter. Or try a new belt and remeasure the belt deflection.
This is how you do.
Apply about 14 lbs of force on the top of the CVT belt, mid section between the drive and driven conveters. Since not may of us have a force-gauge, you will just have to guesstimate what 14 lbs would be.
Then measure the distance how much the belt went below from the starting point. It should be no more than 30 mm or 1.2 inches. If it is more, you will need to disassemble the driven converter (which is composed of fixed and movable sheaves) and take a shim or two out to make the belt tighter. Or try a new belt and remeasure the belt deflection.
But the belt appears to sit right in the secondary. By that I mean the cord running through the belt sits at the top of the secondary. Could the shieves be worn? Today I measured the width of the belt and it measures 1.16 to 1.165 . Shouldn't it be 1.18 to 1.19. And Is they're a spec for the clearance between the belt and the drive clutch shieves.
#10
Couple of tips.
Nyroc's ATV info website
and
This is for a 650 put it still has good belt measurement and deflection info.
Nyroc's ATV info website
In general belt deflection is good if the belt is 1/16th to 1/8th of a inch "above" the secondary. You never want the belt "below" the secondary, even "flush even level" is livable.
Here is what I,m after on my sleds and ATVs, notice the belt sitting slightly higher on the Secondary.

Nyroc's ATV info website
and
This is for a 650 put it still has good belt measurement and deflection info.
Nyroc's ATV info website
In general belt deflection is good if the belt is 1/16th to 1/8th of a inch "above" the secondary. You never want the belt "below" the secondary, even "flush even level" is livable.
Here is what I,m after on my sleds and ATVs, notice the belt sitting slightly higher on the Secondary.




