I drilled out the weights on my Wolverine near the end of the weight and had great results. My question is that by drilling 1 3/16 hole in each weight raised stall from 3000 rpm to 3400 rpm would another hole toward the back of the weight possibly by the part number on mine stamped 2078 increase the stall speed even more Has any one tried this and if so what were the results???

 

What,exactly,does raising the stall speed do?? ive never stalled out on a ride.??

 

The stall speed he refers to is either how high it will rev in gear with the brake on or how high the rpm flashes when he guns it from a dead stop. Not sure which on though. Basically he has modified the clutch to engage at a higher RPM, therefore the machine should be a little quicker off the line. The same idea applies to drag cars. Once you start hopping up your motor you tend to shift the powerband up the rpm scale. A higher stall speed allows the engine to get to the rpm at which it makes the most power faster.

 

I'am assuming that the clutches in your quad are similar to those on a snowmobile, so i think you are opening a huge can of worms screwing with the clutch weights, unless you have alot of experience working and tuning clutches, or alot of parts to try different set ups with. The clutches themselves operate on centrifugal force, so if you make the weights lighter, you will raise the engagement because it will have to spin faster to generate the same amount of force to overcome the spring. A much better way to raise the engagement is by putting a mil or two of shims under the spring... Also know that it makes a huge difference where you add and remove weight from on the weights... for engagement, you are much better off taking weight off close to the inside (pivot point). The inner part of the wieght effects the low speed, the middle the mid speeds, and the tip the top end. By removing weight from the tip (which you did, you will also raise the rpm's at wide open, and you are now probably over revving from where your peak HP is...

there is a ton more, but i don't have the time to type it all in right now...

 

i think you drilled in the wrong spot it should have been by the part # to engage at low rpm i also think that by drilling two 3/16" holes it should engage at a higher rpm making it launch alot harder
you can try it and let me know ha ha lol

 

Hideaway you also drilled the weights in the same spot every one on this frum who has drilled weights has drilled on the end of the weight i have never seen weights drilled at the pivot point . By drilling at the end it did raise the engagement rpm and increase the stall speed also known as the bog like when you are pulling a car or trying to take off in mud it launches harder just want to know if anyone has done the 2 hole drilling the style clutch used is that of a go-kart for the centrifical and a secondary clutch that of a manual clutch atv or motorcycle has anyone at all tied this good replies and info so far keep it coming

 

409, you're assuming wrong. It's nothing at all like a snowmobile clutch, and the modifications of one do not apply to the other.

 

The closer to the pivot point you drill, the more material you will have to remove to get the same effect due to the simple physics of centrifugal forces acting on a lever. I think the best place to drill is the end because of this.

 

The closer to the pivot point you drill, the more material you will have to remove to get the same effect due to the simple physics of centrifugal forces acting on a lever. I think the best place to drill is the end because of this.