Arctic Cat Discussions about Arctic Cat ATVs.

oils

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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 08:09 PM
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trailguide2u's Avatar
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Does anyone use synthectic oil in there engine and diffs.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 09:41 PM
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you know, i would like to know the same thing , i had asked a local dealer down here in sc , and he said not to because the oil was to slippery , that to me was not what i wanted to hear.i want a more technical reason as to why or why not.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 09:43 PM
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you know, i would like to know the same thing , i had asked a local dealer down here in sc , and he said not to because the oil was to slippery , that to me was not what i wanted to hear.i want a more technical reason as to why or why not.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 12:03 AM
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I have a 500 auto and I use the Castrol semi-synthetic oil in mine. I have heard that for the shift models that it is a little too slippery for the clutch packs to get proper adhesion and yu can have clutch slippage. I guess one of the major oil companies has just come out with a full synthetic for ATV's amd M/C's. It's about $8.oo a quart. I don't have clue how well it works. The reason that synthetics work so well for lubrication is because all the molecules are the same size. For that same reason, is why they aren't so good for clutches.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 09:33 AM
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Mobil 1 has an full synthetic atv/motorcycle oil in 10w-40 and 20w-50. You can order it on their website. They say it is for wet clutch systems. I haven't seen it or used it but I use their regular oils in my trucks.

Dakota R/T
 
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 11:05 AM
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Honda for 1 says not to use synthetics in their engines. My dealers service dept. says syns. cause premature cam lobe wear. The new automobile oils are formulated to protect catylic
converters. M.C. oils are different from auto
oils / different additives. Most auto oils are not recommended for Diesel use also. You might
want to try Shell Rotella 15W/ 40.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 10:28 PM
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My AC dealer suggested that I break in the engine with regular (petroleum based) oil. It is supposed to help the rings seat in better. After that he said he couldn't see any reason not to use synthetic oil. I have heard the stories of synthetics causing wet clutches to slip for years, but I have never seen any real objective studies that proved this to be true. I have seen it used in drag racing and road racing motorcycles and they are pretty hard on clutches. I don't understand how it would cause accelerated camshaft wear. Synthetics are supposed to be superior when it comes to viscosity breakdown and standing up to the shearing action that transmission oils are subjected to.

I wouldn't recommend any of the new low friction oils that are being pushed for automobiles. They were developed to increase fuel mileage by reducing friction, possibly at the expense of lubrication. I have heard that the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers have spoken out against these oils. I can understand how these oils might cause bearing and camshaft wear problems. Most of these oils are multiweight oils that are 0W or 5W on the bottom end.

I haven't decided whether I will try a synthetic oil after break in or not. Since I change oil pretty often I may stick with the regular motorcycle oil. I've also had pretty good luck with the Golden Spectro semi-synthetic in my bikes, so I may use it.

As for the gear oil, I can see no problems in using a synthetic other than the expense. If you are in water a lot, you will possibly be changing it more often than normal so that might make a difference to you.

IMHO sythetics are best for vehicles that are used in high mileage or high stress applications. I use them in my truck which makes a 100 mile round trip daily. They are also better for high heat and high rpm applications because they don't "break down" as quickly in those situations. I personally believe synthetics may be overkill for most applications when you look at them on a performance per dollar basis. All of this is just my opinion however.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2001 | 12:52 AM
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I changed oil at 100 mi and 300 mi using Arctic Cat oil. Then at 600 miles switched to Mobil 1 5w30 for the winter and then at 900 miles Mobil 1 10w30 for the warmer weather.

When I drained the first crankcase of the synthetic I noticed alot less metal filings on the drain plug magnet. Plus the oil looked very very clean. I'm considering going to 400 miles between changes in the future.

Also at the 600 mile oil change I put Mobil 1 75w90 in both front and rear differentials.

I haven't noticed any clutch slippage even when pulling a trailer up a pretty steep hill with about 500 lbs of rocks in it plus my fat 175 lbs in the seat, my 40 lb dog riding on the rear rack plywood and carpet scrap seat made for him, and the front rack loaded with about 25 lbs of chainsaw & supplies.

I've noticed mostly dealers and salesmen don't see the need for synthetic oils.
 
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